new sensor.....NOT TACH.....??
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 868
Likes: 2
new sensor.....NOT TACH.....??
Hey guys put in a new 70 dollar sensor and still no tach.........Bought a used cluster with supposed working tach.........still no tach.
Question is this........How does it function? Wiring schematic for it?
The two wires coming out of the tach sensor are green with stripe and black with stripe? One is power inbound, one outbound? These two wire appear to run into a plug towards the back of the pass inner fender? Do they run directly to cluster plug from there? What is the power routing for it? How does the fuse for the tach fit in?
I started the truck and unplugged the sensor, Tested both wires going to the sensor and got ZERO power on either one?
Any help with wiring and overall function of the tach system is appreciated.....really wanna get this working?
On a side note, It seems I have fixed all my air intrusion leaks, as I just lit the truck up in -10 degrees after it was plugged in for several hours and it started like a dream! Woooo Hoooo
Question is this........How does it function? Wiring schematic for it?
The two wires coming out of the tach sensor are green with stripe and black with stripe? One is power inbound, one outbound? These two wire appear to run into a plug towards the back of the pass inner fender? Do they run directly to cluster plug from there? What is the power routing for it? How does the fuse for the tach fit in?
I started the truck and unplugged the sensor, Tested both wires going to the sensor and got ZERO power on either one?
Any help with wiring and overall function of the tach system is appreciated.....really wanna get this working?
On a side note, It seems I have fixed all my air intrusion leaks, as I just lit the truck up in -10 degrees after it was plugged in for several hours and it started like a dream! Woooo Hoooo
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Cartersville Georgia
Tach probs.....
Shane, be sure to check all the maxi fuses under the hood in fuse box cluster on the drivers side. I dealt with the no tach issue for about 2 months after trying to trace the wiring and replacing the $70 tach sensor. the one that I didn't do (which I really should have done first) was check both fuse clusters. All fuses in the cab checked out, but I had about 6 blow fuses under the hood. One of those maxi fuses powers the tachometer. I don't recall which one, but check them all. Pay close attention to those fuses too. Some of those Maxi's are designed with a very thin fusible link and thats hard to tell if they are good or bad by looking at them. Your best bet is to check them for continuity with at multimeter if they look questionable.
But once I got all those bad fuses replaced, I haven't had a tach issue since. If yours is and E4OD like mine that tachometer is crucial.
But once I got all those bad fuses replaced, I haven't had a tach issue since. If yours is and E4OD like mine that tachometer is crucial.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Cartersville Georgia
My mistake Shane, I assumed that yours was my style. I do have the full wiring schematic for an '89, but I don't know if it would be much help or not. So did your 86's have an original tachometer (I think some of them didn't) or are you adding a tach?
I can't think of a vehicle over the years that I've worked on that didn't have an additional "feeder" fuse cluster under the hood, but I'm sure there are plenty of exceptions........
I can't think of a vehicle over the years that I've worked on that didn't have an additional "feeder" fuse cluster under the hood, but I'm sure there are plenty of exceptions........
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 0
From: West Valley Utah
allerickb asked the right question, are you adding the tach? Were there wires to hook the sensor too? On my first 86' with no tach, there were no wires to hook to. Ended up with an after market with the magnetic pickup off the vibration dampener.
If the wires are there, they should run to the old gauge cluster but not used. The new cluster with a tach should work unless it's bad or maybe a fuse needs put in. It's been long since I've played in the fuse box to remember whats there.
If the wires are there, they should run to the old gauge cluster but not used. The new cluster with a tach should work unless it's bad or maybe a fuse needs put in. It's been long since I've played in the fuse box to remember whats there.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 868
Likes: 2
the truck had a factory tach, all the wiring is there etc. Wiring appears to be all intact.
Wondering if anyway to test wiring but need to know where and what to test for i.e. how does it work, what is the power routing for it etc.
Wondering if anyway to test wiring but need to know where and what to test for i.e. how does it work, what is the power routing for it etc.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 868
Likes: 2
someone must know the setup on the tach? Where does it get it's power? Through the fuse box? etc.......I'm getting now power at either wire going into the sensor?
Anyone have schematic of the tach wiring etc?
thanks in advance!
Anyone have schematic of the tach wiring etc?
thanks in advance!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
The tach is a Hall Effect unit.
The only power involved is to the dash tach.
The sensor is counting teeth on the IP drive gear if I remember right.
My guess, pull the insturment cluster, speedo cable can be a bear sometimes since it has to be unhooked to get the cluster out enough to remove the electrical plug.
Just unplug the plug, then plug it right back in and start the engine.
That fixed several issues I was having with my dash lights and gauges.
The only power involved is to the dash tach.
The sensor is counting teeth on the IP drive gear if I remember right.
My guess, pull the insturment cluster, speedo cable can be a bear sometimes since it has to be unhooked to get the cluster out enough to remove the electrical plug.
Just unplug the plug, then plug it right back in and start the engine.
That fixed several issues I was having with my dash lights and gauges.
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