Which wire do I use if I want to Park and sleep with the truck running? the tech folder gives 2 options. Which on are you guys using?

 

I used the Battery Charge Protect wire. I won't mention color, since I don't know what year truck you have.

Unless you need to vary the idle with a pot, you might as well just use the BCP function. I like the fact that the BCP does not lock my torque converter.

 

Incidentally, that's a really bad idea on a 6.0, even with the high idle.

 

I have an 05 f350

 

Now that's just funny right there...I don't care what anyone says...thats funny

 

I've done the high idle, but I'm curious...does it hurt anything to leave the switch flipped all the time and have 12V on the system all the time. Or is the 12V only supplied when all of the conditions are met?

And does it hurt anything to crank the truck up with it still plugged in?

 

it is fine to start it plugged in and the switch won't hurt anyhting in the on position

 

I noticed than on a cold start up my hi idle does not kick in till the gpm shuts off. I have never seen this commented on before.

 

It's very possible that with the changes that were made from the '03-'04s to the '05-'07s that they implemented something like that. Because if I dont plug my truck in over night and try and high idle first thing in the morning, my truck sputters and sounds like it's about to choke out at about 800-900 rpms. But like you said, it's odd that it's never been mentioned before.

 

For an '05, you want to use this how-to guide:
TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

Purple wire with light green stripe.

 

If you're just looking for the steady 1200 rpms then I used the 10amp Orange/Blue wire from the upfitters and spliced a 10" 16gauge stranded copper jumper between it and the small Solid Orange wire in the large bundle of wires by the emerg brake. Soldered and heat shrink tubing...good to go. This is what I did on my '05.

 

If you used the solid Orange wire, then you used the SEIC input wire. You just didn't go on to install the resistor, so you only get the 1,200 rpm. With the resistor installed you could choose any rpm you wanted, up to 2,400. Your method also locks the torque converter, so that power takeoff applications could be used. Nothing wrong with doing it that way, it's just one of the options.

The BCP wire is purple with light green stripe and just gives a solid 1,200 RPM, unless you are drawing more electrical current than the alternator can provide, at which point it will automatically ramp up higher. But you might not ever see that happen in normal use unless you have a big inverter or something using power. You might also see the increased rpm's if you jump start someone. This method does NOT lock the torque converter, since it is not intended to support power takeoff.

The OP asked how to choose, and that is it in a nutshell.

 

Thanks...I agree...options are nice...now I wish I had done it the other way...

 

Well, sometimes I wish I had done it your way. And the reason is another difference I forgot to mention, and that is ramp up rate. With my BCP method, when I hit the switch it instantly jumps up to 1,200. As I understand it, your method has a little slower ramp up so that it won't jerk the PTO equipment. Trade-offs, always trade-offs.

I suppose there is no reason you couldn't do both. Just use switch #3 for the other option. I have no idea what happens if you hit them both at once.

 

Thanks again.