Anybody got pictures of the actual ignition switch mounting for a '91 F150. My Zone manual tells me where it's supposed to be & how I'm supposed to change it. Just like pictures before I start. Already did the key cylinder, it was hanging up, but still having problems. Rod isn't broken, works sometimes. Have a new switch, wanted to look at the old one before I replaced it.

 

Sorry, no pictures. Usually on the top of the column, just below the dash. Look up for the bunch of large gauge wires going to it. Should only take a few minutes to get it out and look at it.

I just installed a remote start to my '89. Had to tap into wires.

My key action is kinda stiff, like it doesn't want to return after turning to start. I pulled cylinder and lubed it. Still not "free" feeling, but it's okay.

 

your "stiff" problem is more than likely the linkage, to lube it you are going to have to drop the steering column. you don't have to take the column out, just take the covers off, and take out the 4 bolts/nuts that hold the column up. Then find you linkage and lube all of the contact points. this will also be a good time to check/change your ign. switch because it is mounted on top of the column near the bottom.

 

Usually what happens is the little actuator inside the column hangs up over time, or wears out and breaks. Eventually the key will just spin the cylinder with no effect.

Getting to the box is easy, but dropping the column makes it much faster. It's no big deal, I did it in the parking lot at the office during lunch when mine broke.

Remove the lower dash trim and the bolts retaining the column support. If it's an automatic, you'll need to remove the shroud around the gear lever and unbolt the little white cable, or you won't be able to lay the column down.

On the top of the column, near the firewall is the switch. It's held onto the two pegs by a pair of nuts. You can remove the nuts and slip the actuator rod out of the notch in the switch. Use a small screwdriver to move the switch and see if it's causing the hangup.

I highly doubt the switch is the culprit.

 

I had that linkage break on my 1990 150 while I was at farm and fleet. I was able to unbolt the switch and start the truck, (forgot that there was a lock for the automatic trans shifter) so I had to drop the column and take the linkage out to unlock the shifter.
It was really easy, and I did it all in about 1hr working with the tools I had on me. I did have to go in and buy a steering wheel puller though, Don't remember if I really needed to pull the wheal or if I just started tearing it apart the wrong way trying to figure out wear the shifter lock was.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Good to know about the shift indicator cable, wouldn't even have thought about it. Know the rod isn't broken, the key works sometimes. It does feel sloppy to me ( side to side ). Is that normal? Can sometimes make the key work by wiggling it then turning the key. Stood on my head & looked under there this A.M. Looks like 2 bolts on the side of the aluminum(? dull silver color ) plate / bracket that goes around the bottom of the column & then 4 more bolts in the column itself. Am going to try it someday ( maybe tomorrow P.M. ). Busy A.M. & hoping for warmer weather tomorrow.

 

I would be willing to bet that it is the linkage between the key cylinder and the rod that connects to your ignition switch, just like was mentioned. Unless someone messed up the pocket that the key cylinder sits in then thats a different story. I dont know if there are two different ones for the tilt column verses the non-tilt. Mine would feel sloppy in turning and sometimes wouldnt even catch. It finally broke like was mentioned and the key would spin with no effect. Had to pull the steering wheel, since my column was a tilt column, I had to pull the hinge pins with a machine screw of the right threads, visegrips to hold the screw and a hammer to knock the pins out (would have worked better with a slide hammer though). At the time I think I also fixed the tilt mechanism as the wheel was always crooked on the column.

I didnt drop the colum to replace the ignition switch. I just laid down on the floor board looking up under the dash, used a ratchet and socket, took the two nuts off, made sure the ignition switch was in the off position, matched the key cylinder to the position so the rod was in the right spot, and tighted down the nuts. Didn't see a need to drop the column to do this.

 

My Zone Manual says drop the column to replace it. How do I get in to lube this linkage & what should I use? WD-40 or grease or ??? Do NOT want that rod breaking. Sounds like a real pain in the petunias to replace. Today is not a good day for S cubed ( 35° & rain ), switch has been working IF I tilt the wheel down to where I usually put it when I'm driving ( most of the time, still not returning right ).

 

Well I can tell you how to start the truck from the seat. You may have to turn the key some but it probably will work most of the time.

Take the plastic shroud off the place where the column meets the dash. Its 2 or 4 phillips head scres in the holes from the bottom. Find the linkage rod on top of the steering tube, using a pair of pliers, push that rod forward until the truck begins to start. Release the rod when the truck begins to run, mind that you may need to turn the key at the same time for this to come together properly.

Otherwise, make sure that the truck ignition is in the run position, use a screw driver to cross the hot battery wire to the ignition lug on the starter selinoid to start the truck. DO NOT cross the battery lug to the starter lug wire, unless you want a fast lesson in welding the screw driver to the starter selinoid.

To kill the motor, (probably not the right way but it works) pull the wiring harness off the ignition coil. If you pull the ignition coil lead to the distributor, you will get a very nice electric tickle reminding you of the voltage.

 

S cubed = Screwdriver + Solenoid = Start. Can usually just wiggle the rod side to side if the key doesn't work. Turns off with the key no problem. Have been doing this since the day after coming back from Tech School. Slowly but surely working on fixing it.

 

Did you check that your neutral safety switch is working correctly? As this can cause an open circuit on the starter relay if it is bad.

 

Haven't done it yet, can wiggle shifter back & forth between gears, no effect. Intermittent problem, comes & goes.