IP fuel line input nut
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
IP fuel line input nut
Fellas,
Again that damn nut on the center input for the IP came loose enough to drip and drain all over the valley "washing" everything down onto the starter housing. I tightened it back but if it comes loose again, can i use some non permanent thread locker on it? why the hell wont it stayput? I was also tinkering around the parts bucket from the last engine and left over parts from the swap. I noticed that i had some hanging wires with "plugs" and it looks like it will attach to the top of the fuel filter mount from the swapped engine. We didnt use it because the lines were a different direction and it would have been a whole reroute. Well i am thinking it is a fuel heater but i am not sure. It is a black fitting on the top of the filter mount housing. Thoughts?
Again that damn nut on the center input for the IP came loose enough to drip and drain all over the valley "washing" everything down onto the starter housing. I tightened it back but if it comes loose again, can i use some non permanent thread locker on it? why the hell wont it stayput? I was also tinkering around the parts bucket from the last engine and left over parts from the swap. I noticed that i had some hanging wires with "plugs" and it looks like it will attach to the top of the fuel filter mount from the swapped engine. We didnt use it because the lines were a different direction and it would have been a whole reroute. Well i am thinking it is a fuel heater but i am not sure. It is a black fitting on the top of the filter mount housing. Thoughts?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
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Wreckinball,
Can't offer anything about why it keeps loosening but you could try some threadlock. The "blue" should keep it there but not permanent like the "red". I've had good success with it for other applications. Good luck
Can't offer anything about why it keeps loosening but you could try some threadlock. The "blue" should keep it there but not permanent like the "red". I've had good success with it for other applications. Good luck
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
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From: So. Jersey
I'd check the rubber seal and make sure the nut isn't split, which can happen from overtightening. Then if your still concerned some green locktite wouldn't hurt, just keep it on the threads only.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
There are seals under the cap nuts on the lift pump to filter header and filter header to IP lines. Yours are probably worn out or missing. the lines are NOT overtightened or it defeats the rubber sealing effect. The seals are available at most diesel repair shops in the 2 line OD sizes required.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
well i have it stopped for now! We shall see, i just used a dab of the blue and it is holding......fingers crossed! hahaha. I talked to some of the repair shops around town and they all have the seals, along with lordco ford and the others. So no worries and thanks all for the help!
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Cargo Master
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From: Duluth, Mn.
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AN fitting, reply
The 'AN' designation stands for 'Army Navy' in the USA. This came about early in the development of aircraft for military use, as pneumatic and hydraulic systems were being developed. The fitting has a tapered sealing nose, to accept a flaired pipe or fitting connection, which matches said taper, allowing it to seat and seal when the companion nut is tightened. The opposite end of this fitting, in this case, would have threads to match the pump's inlet port, and, if I'm not mistaken, are NPT -- which are tapered pipe threads.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Yeah when i was watching it it seemed i get some good vibration from the fuel filter assembly that might be causing the issue. I had a similar problem with the line coming up from the tank between the engine and firewall. I replaced about a meter of copper line with hi pressure/heat resistant ruber fuel line and the leak stopped there. Maype i should replace that one line with a similar set up that can absorb the vibration. Or is there an issue causing the vibration that should be? With the AN fitting i believe he is referring to annodized aluminum. Looks like it might work well and look nice too. hmmm
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AN fittings, etc
Further to my earlier reply, a brief search on this great forum came up with some chatter about this topic.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...o-article.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...o-article.html
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