I have a 1981 Pickup with a 400M and i need help with wiring the distributor. im putting a 1970 f-100 body on a 4x4 81 setup and need help figuring out how to wire the distributor it has 3 wires coming from the base. any help would be very much appreciated thanks.

 

Does this help?

DuraSpark Wiring Schematic

 

somewhat but im looking to avoid the ignition module and a clearer idea of what wires connect to where on a standard ignition would be great.

 

You have points on an '81???

 

no its hei. the motor is a 1981 400M from a f-250
i just read another post and can see that i need the module but i need help with which wires go where in the ignition. which s wire go's where and where does the r wire go?

thanks

 

HEI is for chebbys...
If you have a reluctor wheel and orange, purple, black wires in your dizzy you have a Duraspark distributor and it uses the module.
If it really is one of those cheap HEI distributors from Ebay then someone else has already messed with the ignition. You will need to identify the manufacturer to decipher it.
There is a sponsor on this forum that sells coil on cap distributors: Performance Distributors - High Performance and Racing Ignition Systems
Perhaps they can help.

 

durraspark is what i ment sorry this is my first ford that i've tore into. i was wondering where those wires i said go to in the picture you added earlier.

 

The wires from the dist plug into the module. If the plug has been cut off, then just wire it in, color for color.

You will have to hand wire the red wire from the module into the ignition switch of the older truck, and run the white wire from the module over to the blue/red on the starter solenoid.

The same wire you add for the red power wire of the module can also run the coil power if you add a white resistor to the coil +.

 

Dave is correct.

I'm sorry I didn't see your edit to post 5 and better address your questions right away.
S is for Start and sends a signal to the module to retard the timing while cranking.
R is the Run position of the ignition switch powering the module and providing power (through a resistor or resistor wire) to the coil. Mine reads about 7.5V when connected.

I think you'll find the DSII system simple and reliable.
Good luck with your cab swap, and welcome to the FTE forums 70converter!

 

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/DurasparkII.JPG

heres a pic i got from another forum does this look right it seems clearer to me this way but im just a more visual person.

 

also is there a specific ohm ballast resistor or a special type to use?
and does anyone know of a wiring diagram for the ignition(key) switch harness plug so i can swap the wires out without a hassle of frying fuses for a 1970 f-100?

 

That picture is correct. Here's another;



I believe the original wire to the coil was a red/green(that's what the 69 diagram shows). If you can find the original coil wire intact from the old truck, you could use this to power the new coil + since it already has the resistor built into it. Then all you would need to do is go back to the ignition switch and find the red/green, and solder another wire to it right at the switch(to avoid the resistor) and run it to the red wire of the module.

If you can't find the original coil wire(it can't be cut or the resistance will change) then just wire a new wire onto the ignition switch, run it out to the module, and then branch off with a wire going to a white resistor mounted on the firewall, and then go from there to the coil +. Also take a wire from the coil + and run it over to the starter solenoid and hook it to the "i" terminal of the solenoid. A resistor from a Chrysler product seems to work ok. I think it can be .9 to 1.1 ohms resistance.

When you get this all hooked up and running, I want you to come back and explain fully all the in's and out's of putting that old body on this newer frame. What it took to mate them together, how the wheelbase is going to work out, etc.

 

if i have the original wires and use them still do i need to run a wire to the I post on the Solenoid?
and i shall post the results to how my project turns out as i can. and try to take plenty of pics as i work. also i'll post the wiring config i wrote out for anyone else that does this kind of swap. might be slow as it just snowed and im working outside.

 

the easiest way i find is to seperate the duraspark wiring harness from the 1981 truck.
peel the tape off of the wires that lead to the coil, distributor and ignition box. (ford taped wires you need to ones you dont) find the red one with the green stripe give yourself about 6 inches and cut it. next follow the red and white ones about 6-8 inches from the conector and cut the harness should be free. conect the red/green wire to the 1970 coil wire like franklin2 said. the other two are to power the module (red) and start retard(white) i extend the red one and run it to the I terminal on the starter relay. the start retard function is unnessisary in my oppinion.

this way when the time comes just plug the connectors in and the truck will fire right up.

i have retrofitted duraspark to sevral old points trucks and i always look for the 80's harness its easy to remove and only leaves two conections to be made. if you want to hook the module power lead up to the ign switch like franklin recomends then you dont need to worry about the i terminal to the relay as that conection is taken care of in the 1970 trucks stock wiring.

 

I agree with Brown79, except the start retard is nessecery in certain start conditions. Hooking that Red wire to the I terminal will work well, and the white to the Red/Green wire at the ignition switch.

Use a DS-II harness out of a 1976-1983 pickup, and that will take most of the wiring guesswork out of it, and only leave you two wires to hook up..

There are some interesting wiring discrepencies, like how some of the replacement Motorcraft and Aftermarket DS-II modules the wiring colors are inverted on the module side of the harness. This makes just splicing wire color to wire color, impossible. You need the idiot proof connector to make sure it's connected the right way.

Here is a picture of the power wires going into an aftermarket or certain replacement motorcraft DS-II modules. Notice how the white and red wires invert through the plug.



An original or certain Motorcraft DS-II modules do not invert the colors. Both are wired correctly. Where the idiot proof connector is vital.

This makes things confusing as hell to try and wire this system without the plug.

Original Wiring, on truck and on original module:
Red= Start
White=Run

Aftermarket and Certain replacement wiring and modules:
White=Start
Red=Run

Just a heads up.