IP settings
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IP settings
I understand that removing the screw caps to change the settings will void the warranty of a new [rebuilt] pump so I think I'll leave that alone. However I would like to know what advantages and/or disadvantages there are to changing the pump timing. If this is something I should consider doing what is involved? Thanks for the input.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I will answer your question with a couple more.
When you first start the engine do you notice a rattle that goes away when the fast idle and timing advance kick off?
How does the power feel?
Do you see any black smoke when on a hard pull?
When you first start the engine do you notice a rattle that goes away when the fast idle and timing advance kick off?
How does the power feel?
Do you see any black smoke when on a hard pull?
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Westfield, MA
I do Dave. I never gave it much thought before, figured that was normal. Mine rattles pritty good till it gets warmed up. The fast idle doesn't work on mine. I was surprized at how much a pop-up camper slowed down the truck and it smoked so bad that it stained the side of the camper. Just thought it was normal for a non-turbo. How do you check timing on the pump?
Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
If you can find someone with working IDI timing timing tools that knows how to use them you are 75% of the way there.
With out the tools, rattle when timing advance is on, no rattle when it kicks off at 112 degrees engine temp.
A working fast idle and timing advace are controlled by the same switch, so both go off at the same time.
With out the tools, rattle when timing advance is on, no rattle when it kicks off at 112 degrees engine temp.
A working fast idle and timing advace are controlled by the same switch, so both go off at the same time.
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LOL, I think I'm just so relieved when she fires up everything else is moot.
Power, well, I think that goes back to what Star was saying about incremental deterioration over time. I've never replaced the injectors and I had the pump rebuilt at around 100K so I'm sure there's been a power loss and I really haven't noticed it.
Don't have the black smoke, grayish black maybe but not much, and definitely not that solid black like what might pour out of a semi.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Solid black is wasted fuel, and not really good for the engine anyway.
Even though I can roll plenty of black, normally if you follow me around you don't see much more than medium grey.
Heavy load up some of these nice hills, you will see black every once in a while when I have to drop the RPM's real low, then speed back up, like going around a hard corner.
If you don't notice more rattle while the timing advance is on, either it is not working or your timing is a little slow.
Something to remember, if it is slow with worn injectors, it will be slower with new ones.
Even though I can roll plenty of black, normally if you follow me around you don't see much more than medium grey.
Heavy load up some of these nice hills, you will see black every once in a while when I have to drop the RPM's real low, then speed back up, like going around a hard corner.
If you don't notice more rattle while the timing advance is on, either it is not working or your timing is a little slow.
Something to remember, if it is slow with worn injectors, it will be slower with new ones.
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Solid black is wasted fuel, and not really good for the engine anyway.
Even though I can roll plenty of black, normally if you follow me around you don't see much more than medium grey.
Heavy load up some of these nice hills, you will see black every once in a while when I have to drop the RPM's real low, then speed back up, like going around a hard corner.
If you don't notice more rattle while the timing advance is on, either it is not working or your timing is a little slow.
Something to remember, if it is slow with worn injectors, it will be slower with new ones.
Even though I can roll plenty of black, normally if you follow me around you don't see much more than medium grey.
Heavy load up some of these nice hills, you will see black every once in a while when I have to drop the RPM's real low, then speed back up, like going around a hard corner.
If you don't notice more rattle while the timing advance is on, either it is not working or your timing is a little slow.
Something to remember, if it is slow with worn injectors, it will be slower with new ones.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Back wire connector, drivers side is the timing advance.
Run power to that IP connection to turn the advance on.
With the engine off, loosen all three 9/16" nuts on the back od the IP drive gear cover.
Turn the top of the IP toward the passenger side, about the width of the timing mark on the top center of the IP neck where it attaches to the drive gear cover.
Tighten nuts.
Start engine, turn timing advance on.
Listen for rattle.
if yes, done.
If not, repeat steps above.
When you get a rattle with the advance on, you are good to go.
Always tighten nuts before starting engine.
They don't have to be real tight, but snug.
IP damage may result if you start the engine with the nuts loose.
Go in small steps, a little goes a long way.
Run power to that IP connection to turn the advance on.
With the engine off, loosen all three 9/16" nuts on the back od the IP drive gear cover.
Turn the top of the IP toward the passenger side, about the width of the timing mark on the top center of the IP neck where it attaches to the drive gear cover.
Tighten nuts.
Start engine, turn timing advance on.
Listen for rattle.
if yes, done.
If not, repeat steps above.
When you get a rattle with the advance on, you are good to go.
Always tighten nuts before starting engine.
They don't have to be real tight, but snug.
IP damage may result if you start the engine with the nuts loose.
Go in small steps, a little goes a long way.
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Pump and injectors should be arriving today so will be getting started on it providing weather cooperates. Will go small on timing advance but what will be the indications of timing advanced too far, aside from frying the new glow plugs? Also, thanks for the supplier advice, the price difference could easily be wiped out with problems developing while on the road.
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Hoping to get it right the first time but if not what is involved to run power directly to the connector. [weak on electric but know enough not to guess] Thanks. Thinking alligator clips, wire and positive terminal?
Moderator
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From: Virginia
The easiest way I have found to activate the advance circuit is to unplug the plug on the temp sensor, and just stuff a jumper wire down into the plug. On the 7.3 it's located on the passenger side of the engine up front. Way down behind the upper radiator hose.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Yes if you unplug the temp switch, getting the connector back on might not be much fun without removing the alternator.
Also jumping across the connector will send power to the fast idle solenoid.
Also jumping across the connector will send power to the fast idle solenoid.