Looking to swap (V10) engines in my 01 Excursion... Bad rod bearings. Some have told me that in order to R & R the engine the cab will have to be lifted... Is that true? I know, sadly from first hand experience, that the 6.0 PSD requires the cab to be unbolted and lifted but I have never heard, until now, about the V10.
Does anyone have any direct experience with a V10 swap?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

I have heard this also and apparently this is the recommended way.
But...........................
I guess I will get chastised for this:

To remove engine;
If 4WD remove transfer case and transmission cross member just like you were going to pull the transmission, do not unbolt the transmission.
Remove intake from engine completly.
Remove exhaust manafolds.
Drain all fluids from engine and transmission.
Remove compressor and power steering pump.
Also remove anyother parts you can think of to make the engine smaller. Like the lower belt pulley.
Remove fan radatior and all accoicated parts.
Double chain all mounting points and strap the engine to the hoist in case it gets to swinging. Just stay one step ahead of the game. Remember the lift is the most important part. They use a big tall tripod in the wrecking yards.
After this is done unhook all associated wireing and hoses.
Hook lift to engine and use a floor jack to hold the tail shaft of transmission and lift engine and slowly move foward, make sure floor jack moves with the whole unit, once you get the engine foward, slowly lower the tailshaft of transmission on floor jack, and move foward the engine and transmission. The hood now needs to be removed. Make sure you have an engine hoist that will lift the motor and transmission hight engough. You can let the air out of the front tires to gain about 6-8 inches. Just lift the engine and transmission out. Or at least this is the way they can be pulled out of a F-250 which in all due respect is the same truck.
Its really not a lot of extra work to do it this way that I can figure.
If you reinstall the engine install the motor and transmission as a unit.
The only thing you have to do is lift the motor high in a semi-vertical position and be careful. You actually need a tri-pod engine puller, that way the truck can be rolled back once the engine is out after you air the tires back up.
It can be done just study the situation and think about it for a few.

 

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I am puzzled by your "post". "bad rod bearings" was a frequent phenomena up until the mid 1930's when we got precision "insert" type con. rod bearings - that pretty much eliminated it.

Can you tell us more about what you mean about "bad rod bearings"?

For example, how many miles before you got "bad rod bearings" ?

How did you establish that you have "bad rod bearings" ? Did you "drop" the oil pan and actually LOOK at them ?

What can you tell us about them? Specifically, what did you see ?

And what about the crank-shaft's journal surface ? What did it look like ? If the crank-shaft was NOT damaged, what about simply replacing the "inserts" ?

In the "old days" failure of the typical "poured babbit" rod bearings often resulted in scarring up the crank-shaft's journals to the point the crank-shaft had to be removed. In all the worn-out motors I have re-done involving modern (meaning post mid 1930's engines), I personally have never seen total failure of a "insert" type con. rod bearing. So this is new and very interesting to me.

If the crank-shaft rod bearing journals ARE damaged, what SPECIFICALLY is the damage ?

And, most important of all, what, after examining the above, are your conclusions about how you got "bad rod bearings". ?

Please help us understand what you are talking about !

Thanks

 

None of this helps him with his question of how to get the motor out.

 

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That is true. Perhaps he dosnt need to take his motor out. Let's try it again. The guy said he had "bad rod bearings". We have to assume he knows what he is talking about "that he has "bad rod bearings".

Here's the problem with "bad rod bearings'. You don't necessarily have to completely remove an engine if you have "bad rod bearings".

"bad rod bearings" IF that is all that is wrong, can be replaced without taking the motor out.

Let me explain.

Underneath the motor is something called the "oil pan". The oil pan can be removed without taking the whole motor out. And once you get that oil pan off, you can see the inside of the engine.

Inside the engine, looking up from underneath ( again, without removing the engine)...you will be able to see the connecting rods. They have bolts on them, which you can take off...and SEE the rod bearings.

If he really has "bad rod bearings"...again, they can be removed and replaced. Again, without taking the whole motor out of the vehicle.

Now again, this depends on how BAD his "bad rod bearings" are. If they went REALLY bad, they could have damaged that big thing in there called the CRANK SHAFT. In that case...yes..he may need to remove and replace the entire motor.

So...let's go back to my original question..and see what his answer is...what do you think about THAT ?

 

Dude, get over yourself. Go crawl back under your rock that you've been hiding under. You only come out when you see an oppurtunity to stir some crap up.

 

What is this oil pan you speak of?

 

And for something to help the OP.... I know people who have removed the 5.4 and tranny from the F250 without removing any body parts but the hood so I'd like to think the V10 would be possible as well. It will require a hoist with quite a bit of vertical lift and adjustment - but I think Urban has covered everything else.

 

Neither does either one of your replies.
Sorry Scott but maybe you should just take a deep breath. His questions are valid and may serve to save this guy a lot of headaches. He certainly has a point.

How times have we heard about a guy who comes on here wanting fix something that has been misdiagnosed by somebody else? Just yesterday a guy was thinking of replacing his Body Control Module because his interior lights didn't work. He listened to somebody who told him to grease his hinges...



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John, if you were to replace the whole engine, I would lift the body off the frame. It would make the job a whole heck of a lot easier believe or not.

 

If he was coming on here to truley try to help the OP, that would be fine. But you know good and well (proven from past posts) that he is only trying to stir things up and prove someone wrong.

 

Sorry it took so long to get back... I was working on the truck!
Yes, we removed the oil pan and did as good a visual inspection as possible. It sure looks and sounds like the rod bearings.
I really appreciate the insight and the questions. It really did make me take a second look.
This forum is great and I look forward to exchanging information with other Ford owners.

 

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SCOTT has a valid point. If it is more important to be "right", and "politically correct", than helping some guy, perhaps saving him grief and money, then Scott's point is a good one.

 

PLEASE HELP ! You have an opportunity to add to our knowledge. Could you read my initial "post" again, review the questions I proposed to you, and give us some answers ? And, in addition, could you cover the following?

1) You say it "SOUNDS" like rod bearings. Under what conditions did you hear the noise that makes you believe you have "bad rod bearings".

2) you say it "looks" like rod bearings. And you did "as good a visual inspection as possible". I dont understand that "as possible" ? Was there something unique in the design of the Ford V-10 that restricted your ability to get a good look at the connecting rod bearings ?

Can you describe that restriction in detail ? ( I havn't yet opened up a Ford V-10 motor, so I dont know). Were you able to un-bolt some of the rod bearing caps and get a look at the journal surface ? Did you "mike" the crank-shaft to see if it is worn "below standard" or damaged ? Assuming the crankshaft is worn, but ISN'T damaged, did you review in the Ford tech. manuals what "over-size" insert rod bearing "shells" are available?

YOU can help US help YOU ! Sad to say many folks who CALL themselves "mechanics" will take advantage of well-meaning people like you, to make a fast buck off of you. Many in here may not have exposure to technical matters. Some of us in here DO have a background in engines, and CAN help if you give us a chance.

 

Monsta
John, if you were to replace the whole engine, I would lift the body off the frame. It would make the job a whole heck of a lot easier believe or not. [/quote]


Monsta,
Why don't you explain this one? I am stunned at this assumption. This Excursion is not at a dealership.
Just get right to the point and tell us all how?

 

Most guys I'm finding on this board are best at writing big checks and bitching at service managers. I just tore my v10 down in the engine compartment and I'm pretty sure you can pull it out conventionally if you take off the intake.

I'd like to know someone's experience on this as well.