how smart are u????
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 61
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how smart are u????
Well here is the story. I have a 97 f250 psd. It has 250,000 k . Trucks sounds great when running . Truck would stall periodically and got harder to start. Went to ford and had cps and speed sensor recall done. Still happened and then got to the point it would not start. Did some research . I pulled the fuel pump off and the rod that went into the cam was snapped. Luckiliy it did not fall in . I do have a spare enginge so I pulled the fuel pump off . Changed it ran better but would not start on its own. Saw oil leaking though it was from the pan but looked closerand it was leaking from the ipr . There was a good amount of dirt oil etc. Leads me to believe that it has been going on for awhile . Also the ipr selanoisd nut and spacer was in the pan. Ordered the repair oring kit . Changed that and topped off the ihop reservoir( I have checked does not loose any oil either through the ipr or leaking back) When changing this I broke the icp . I bought a new one and put it in . Anouther question is when I took apart the fuel filter to get to th e pump ther was a small nylon ball in the filter bowl. I took it out and misplaced it . Does this affect running and starting ? The truck needed a lot of stuff so I still have stuff to do but have not fixed all the pieces yet . Bought new batteries, new and starter cable and new starter. Has plenty of amps to start. Chase down wires and could not find any burnt eires> Have not pulled valve covers yet. Trucks run fine , the only wasy to start the truck is with ether . I kniw ir is bad . plan on doing all the glow plugs soon. No blown fuses no blown relayshere are the codes p1211, p046,p0344 just changed cam sensor again last night after I saw the code, p0113 air temps sensor missing orered on the kid change and put kn filter. P603 I have taken the batteries off a few times. Took it out last nigh hammered on it ran good . When on it the check eng light came on . When I slowed down and went to an idle it stumbled and stalled. Did a koer test and the p1211 code came up. I only know as much as I am taught . Have a spare truck so I can change parts as needed. Having trouble testing fuel pressure because the Schrader vavle is close to a bracket any suggestion of one that fits. Should I check the ihop pressure . help please
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 14,069
Likes: 17
From: Melbourne, Ky
Unfortunately I don't know what the codes are. I would say your GP's ain't working since the either didn't hurt the engine. I have heard of some that have used either with working GP's and not hurt the engine, but I wouldn't try it. For the GP's, try arcing across the GP selenoid for about 30 seconds and then hit the starter. The selenoid is on top of the engine by the passenger side valve cover. Use a screw driver, and be prepared for it to get hot. Your truck should also have a block heater. You could plug that in too. About an hour or so before you try to start it should help it start without either too. If it's real cold, a couple or even 3 hours won't hurt it.
Also, the K&N air filters aren't very good for these trucks. They are prone to leaking around the edge of the air box. If you have a good air box, I would get a good factory filter, or do the 6637 filter mod. You can hunt down the parts to do that yourself, or you could contact Riffraff Diesel Riffraff Diesel: RDP 6637 Filter Kit and buy a kit from him. It's very reasonably priced, and not hard at all to do. But, let's get that truck running first!
Also, the K&N air filters aren't very good for these trucks. They are prone to leaking around the edge of the air box. If you have a good air box, I would get a good factory filter, or do the 6637 filter mod. You can hunt down the parts to do that yourself, or you could contact Riffraff Diesel Riffraff Diesel: RDP 6637 Filter Kit and buy a kit from him. It's very reasonably priced, and not hard at all to do. But, let's get that truck running first!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
I tell you that was hard to read w/o a magnifying glass, lol. X2 on the 6637. But 1st things 1st. I would clean the FPR screen for starters. You can check the fuel pressure by either going through the "eye" on the engine lifting bracket or just take it off all together. There is an FPR shim you can do with a BB, yup a BB from a BB gun. But don't do this mod if you have a Cali model. You can tell it's a Cali by the "flying saucer" disk on the fuel pump. Make sure you have good oil and make sure it is full. What state are you in? What is the climate like?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,410
Likes: 77
From: Plankinton, SD
p1211=ICP not controllable Pressure above/below desired
p0460=fuel tank level indicator circuit malfunction
p0344= CMP sensor circuit intermittent
p0113=IAT sensor circuit high input
p603=don't know
Hope this helps. I don't know what to do for you but thats what the codes are.
p0460=fuel tank level indicator circuit malfunction
p0344= CMP sensor circuit intermittent
p0113=IAT sensor circuit high input
p603=don't know
Hope this helps. I don't know what to do for you but thats what the codes are.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
Once you verify the GP system , if trouble remains , before trying to start it , look in the HPOP reservoir , it should be full, if not , fill it then try starting . .If it is full , you may need to check ICP manually .. :
Do one head at a time , then dead head the pump to test the IPR ...
Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
ok . To anser a few of ya . Sorry clicked and paste the wording . Did not want to write a book and loose it . It is not a cali model . I am in ma , it is cold now but been having problems in the 60 degree . I will check fuel pressure that way makes sense. It will be alot easier . where is the fpr . i did have a nylon ball that was in the filter housing . lost is though . would that cause no white smoke . how do i check icp manually .
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 61
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
The 2 bolts on the side of the filter housing hold the FPR on. There is a Schrader valve on the right side. you can check the pressure there.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
1. Anouther question is when I took apart the fuel filter to get to th e pump ther was a small nylon ball in the filter bowl. I took it out and misplaced it . Does this affect running and starting ?
2. When I slowed down and went to an idle it stumbled and stalled.
Did a koer test and the p1211 code came up.
3. Having trouble testing fuel pressure because the Schrader vavle is close to a bracket any suggestion of one that fits.
2. Do what Action4478 said above.
3. Remove the decorative cover over the fuel filter and let us know the fuel pressure. Should be OK since you just replaced the FP.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 0
From: Levittown
Its the check ball. Remove the screen with the mixing chamber.
Install the checkball then the mixing chamber.
In answer to your question---Not smart enough.
Bill
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 729
Likes: 0
Uh, I think you should re-think using ether to start your engine. Ether is about the fastest thing you can use on your truck to destroy something. It can crack a piston, break a ring, bend a rod, blow a head gasket, and basicaly reek havoc on your engine. Don't use it, these Power Strokes are not your grandpa's big green tractor. You could already have done some major damage and that is why its not starting easily. Do you have lots of smoke when you start it when its cold, or any time during driving?
