My 73 F100 302 runs great. Always started with the touch of the key during the summer. When it got down to about 50 I had to pump it about twice but it would then instantly start and keep running. Now it is down to around 25. It will still instantly start right up after I pump it twice but then will die. Usually only dies twice then it will run and warm up on high idle. Can I adjust the choke just by turning the cap on the side back towards the truck without readjusting everything? Everything was fine and worked the way it should till it got really cold, now she just needs a little more choke in the mornings to stay going. I cant remember without looking but doesn't the cap say rich 1 rich 2 and such on it? When warm weather comes around I figure I will have to adjust again so it doesnt have to much choke? Thanks.

 

Read my instructions here (ignore the stuff about float height):

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6422219

Also give this a quick read:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116

Those two should have most everything you need to know about setting up the choke. Let me know if you've got more questions.

 

I don't have a choke pulloff on the passenger backside of the carb like you have described. Mine is mounted vertically in the driverside back of the carb(or atleast thats what I think it is).

I let it set overnight then looked at things the next morning. I took the air cleaner off so I could see what was going on. One pump of the pedal and the choke snaped completely closed so no problem there. I had somebody get in it and try to crank it as I watched, bingo found problem. When vacuum is applied the choke is coming about halfway open, which I suspect is to much for a cold engine. How do I adjust the choke pulloff clearance for the setup I have?

 

Well I messed with the truck today until my hands were so cold I couldnt feel them. I took the choke pull off out of the carb. There is a threaded rod going through the carb how do I adjust this? I cant figure it out. I need to make it to where the choke doesn't open up so much when vacuum is applied.

 

Wow cant beleive nobody has chimed in yet, lol. I decided that the only way to adjust the pull off clearance with the setup I have is to bend the lever it connects to. Now the pull off clearance is set where it is supposed to be.

I haven't made 100 percent sure yet that the fast idle index is set right but I will when the engine gets cold.

My problem now seems to be the choke doesn't want to open completely. The choke cap is indexed to the 2nd notch.The electric assist is hooked up and working. The line coming out of the carb for the hotair stove is pluged off because it was rusted out. The end that goes into manifold was in bad shape and causing a vacuum leak. Best thing I could do at the time is just block it off. Can this be causing the choke not to open fully? If so, how would I get the hotair stove back in order?

 

My hot air pipe, was rusted off, so I went to NAPA and got a 12" brake line and replaced it. They also sell a kit to replace it, but mine had already been converted, so I stayed with the brake line.

I would get the kit if I were you, you want and need all componets to be fully functioning, in order to get it set where it will perform the way you need it to. I have read over FMC400's tutorials several time, and I am running a Carter one barrel, but the same principals apply. I could not get mine to start without using starting fluid, now I pump the gas one time, and hit the key and it fires right off. After it is warm, all I got to do is tap the key and it is running.

Sounds like you are on the right track, would also be a good time to check timing and throw a vacuum guage on, and adjust idle, fuel mixture too, you know give it the once over real good!

PS: Hang in there and keep at it, you will get it. To bad you don't have a warm place to work on it. I know I used to have to lay on the frozen ground outside to keep them running so I could get to work in the morning. Now it is a heated constant 50 degree garage, and I love it!! Got music, and a cold beer if you want it too!!! Life is better!!

One more thing, the garage is attached to the house, so I don't even have to go out into the cold to go work on my truck!

 

Well I may not have everything exaclty right yet but im getting there. Man adjusting the choke pull off clearance made a difference. Now when it is cold you pump it to set choke and she will start up and run(no dieing).

I went to the local parts store picked up some new tubing so I can rebuild my hot air pipe. I know the locations of the pipes but can I get a pic of them installed on a 302 so I can see what the factory bends looked like? I would like to bend them so they look like the factory ones did. Thanks.

 

Ditch the hot air lines to the choke, get an electric choke for $50 and you will save yourself hours installing the brake line rigging to the choke. If you are taking about the pre-warmer for the carb intake, that does help if you re-hook it up.
I have had two of these trucks, both of them wouldn't start worth a darn, (back fire through the carb, die, ect) I put the choke on and it starts up every time no problem. Fifty bucks well spent.

 

Thats nice, and your right, but I opted to keep mine original,(sort of) and I know being original, it will, if set up right will perform just as you say. And by the way it sounds the OP is looking to keep his 302 looking, and running as it did originally. Heck he is even after the original style bends and all, which I think is great. I just happen to love the original look to a dent. Not only does it look great, run very good, but it is a source of pride having an original example that made it all these years with out getting beat, hacked and rattle canned to death.

 

Amen. It's nice to have a good example.

 

Well I couldnt find any pics of what the original bends looked like. I went ahead and made my own so it will work. More than likely I will do it over again later when I have a pic to go by and get a better tubing bender.

Man, that hot air pipe works great. Now I have a choke that will completely open up. The stock 302 is laying down even better fuel millage now. Note to self and others, the hot air pipe can get extremely hot in just seconds, I found out the hard way. I didn't mind though, it confirmed for sure that it is working.

Here is a pic below.

Sorry for the dirtiness. The engine bay is not all cleaned up the way I want it yet.
I am very happy with the way the line from the manifold to the carb choke turned out. Wraps around trans dipstick and curves nicely around the back of the valve cover then straight to choke. Anybody know where I get some fo the insulation that goes around it?

The line from carb airhorn to manifold I am less than happy about. Its plain ugly, I gotta make it look better. I might buy some more line then bend it to go around the back of the valve cover also, that way I can still get the valve cover off and not have to remove anything.

Anybody know of anything I can wrap around or put on the lines so they will fit tighter in the manifold?