chrysler concord lxi
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 349
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From: oxon hill, MD U.S.A
chrysler concord lxi
OK guys i have not been here in a while and i need help my grandmothers 2000 Chrysler concord lxi 3.2l v6 is having a lot of issues
1. the other night the trunk kept popping open and the head light would stop working.
2. theirs a hum and clicking noise coming from the dash.
3. the battery light came on just today the other problems are ongoing.
4. we bought a new battery and it seems like its not holding a charge anymore we have to keep jumping it every day but when we use it all day it doesn't need to be jumped
its been to 3 different dealerships all said the same thing theirs nothing wrong. for some reason the problems disappeared when at the dealership.
1. the other night the trunk kept popping open and the head light would stop working.
2. theirs a hum and clicking noise coming from the dash.
3. the battery light came on just today the other problems are ongoing.
4. we bought a new battery and it seems like its not holding a charge anymore we have to keep jumping it every day but when we use it all day it doesn't need to be jumped
its been to 3 different dealerships all said the same thing theirs nothing wrong. for some reason the problems disappeared when at the dealership.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,476
Likes: 224
From: Frequently frozen MN
You might have a couple of things.
Maybe something is draining the batt with the power off. They get a little tricky to test these days because they often draw higher current until everything goes to sleep.
I'd recommend getting a current meter that will show currents in the area of 200 ma. Rig it up to measure the current from the battery, BUT have a shorting jumper across the leads. After you're through fooling around and the ignition has been off for at least 15 minutes remove the short. Current should be less than 100 ma.
Low batts can cause a lot of goofy symptoms. So can bad grounds. Best bet is to try and find a diagram of all of the grounds and check them out.
Alldata has this information. It's an online service, that you have to pay for, but you might have free access at your library. Auozone might have it in their online repair section. Also you might have it in a Chiltons or other service manual. (Also often found at the library)
Look the grounds over to see if they look flaky. If possible, run a voltmeter from the battery - to the ground while you have various things powered on. Should not show a voltage of more than a couple of tenths of a volt.
You could also have other flaky wires/connections. Try wiggling whatever you can get at (not too roughly) while the car is acting up.
Good Luck
Maybe something is draining the batt with the power off. They get a little tricky to test these days because they often draw higher current until everything goes to sleep.
I'd recommend getting a current meter that will show currents in the area of 200 ma. Rig it up to measure the current from the battery, BUT have a shorting jumper across the leads. After you're through fooling around and the ignition has been off for at least 15 minutes remove the short. Current should be less than 100 ma.
Low batts can cause a lot of goofy symptoms. So can bad grounds. Best bet is to try and find a diagram of all of the grounds and check them out.
Alldata has this information. It's an online service, that you have to pay for, but you might have free access at your library. Auozone might have it in their online repair section. Also you might have it in a Chiltons or other service manual. (Also often found at the library)
Look the grounds over to see if they look flaky. If possible, run a voltmeter from the battery - to the ground while you have various things powered on. Should not show a voltage of more than a couple of tenths of a volt.
You could also have other flaky wires/connections. Try wiggling whatever you can get at (not too roughly) while the car is acting up.
Good Luck
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
I'd put money on your alternator having a bad diode. Everything in that car is run off a network, and a/c in the system can do some strange things.
If you have a good DMM, set it on a/c voltage, put the ground lead on the engine, and the positive lead on the jump start point, or the alternator output stud if you can reach it. If you see more than .1vac, it's bad. You can replace just the diodes.
If you have a good DMM, set it on a/c voltage, put the ground lead on the engine, and the positive lead on the jump start point, or the alternator output stud if you can reach it. If you see more than .1vac, it's bad. You can replace just the diodes.
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18,308
Likes: 20
From: Washington State
You could also try one of these forums.
Forums dedicated to Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth, AMC, Jeep, etc. cars, trucks, and minivans --- highly recommend
http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/
Forums dedicated to Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth, AMC, Jeep, etc. cars, trucks, and minivans --- highly recommend
http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 349
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From: oxon hill, MD U.S.A
changed the alternator today so far so good
now i know why the dealership charges 300 for replacing it i had to nearly take the front end off to get to the alternator. those car's are a pain in the but* I'm sticking with ford.
now i know why the dealership charges 300 for replacing it i had to nearly take the front end off to get to the alternator. those car's are a pain in the but* I'm sticking with ford.
