When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking for an answer. Have it pretty well narrowed down. The rod through the steering column is not broken, however it does seem to get mis-aligned at times. If I reach up to the gap between the column & the dash & wiggle it around, usually can use the key to start it. Much nicer than S cubed ( for those of you who are wondering, S cubed is Screwdriver + Solenoid = Start ). My question is what do I need to replace? Have read some other ones where Bill(?) ( Numbers Guru, retired FORD parts guy ) said something about a brass gear behind the key cylinder? Also the key cylinder doesn't seem like it has enough spring tension. Do I need to replace the key cylinder or the actual switch on the other end of the rod or the brass gear or what? Rod feels very sloppy / loose, is that normal or does it need replaced too? Please help.
P.S. pictures would be nice if possible. Thanks ! Am working on Old Rusty, '91 F-150 XLT Lariat 2wd E4OD 302.
Last edited by 1OldFordMan; Dec 1, 2009 at 07:18 PM.
Reason: Add P.S.
Looking for an answer. Have it pretty well narrowed down. The rod through the steering column is not broken, however it does seem to get mis-aligned at times. If I reach up to the gap between the column & the dash & wiggle it around, usually can use the key to start it. Much nicer than S cubed ( for those of you who are wondering, S cubed is Screwdriver + Solenoid = Start ). My question is what do I need to replace? Have read some other ones where Bill(?) ( Numbers Guru, retired FORD parts guy ) said something about a brass gear behind the key cylinder? Also the key cylinder doesn't seem like it has enough spring tension. Do I need to replace the key cylinder or the actual switch on the other end of the rod or the brass gear or what? Rod feels very sloppy / loose, is that normal or does it need replaced too? Please help.
P.S. pictures would be nice if possible. Thanks ! Am working on Old Rusty, '91 F-150 XLT Lariat 2wd E4OD 302.
key switch can be lubed with wd40, will make it act a lot more user friendly. I had 1 of my fords years ago that needed a new ign switch, acted kinda like that. does it act up when you have the wheel tilted all the way down?
key switch can be lubed with wd40, will make it act a lot more user friendly. I had 1 of my fords years ago that needed a new ign switch, acted kinda like that. does it act up when you have the wheel tilted all the way down?
Seems to be all the time. Usually tilt it to make it easier to get my hand in the space. Tried some WD-40 in the cyl. a week or 2 ago. Tonight it didn't return from start right away ( first time it's done that ). By the time I figured out what the buzzing was , it had returned, but still stuck there a minute or so.
Just checked a link (? right word ?) from a post I did a while back about recalls & it says none for this VIN. Guess that means it's been done already. Would have been nice to get it fixed free. Checked The Zone, they list a new key cylinder for $10.00. Cheap fix if that's all I need. Still wondering about that brass gear thingie Number Guru ( Bill? Retired FORD parts guy ) was talking about & would like to see a picture ( color would be great ) of it in place & how to remove/replace. Sounded simple, but if a mistake can be made, I'll make it.
yes I replaced the key cylinder this time last year. That sounds like what it may be but can't tell w/o more info plus i've never replaced an ignition switch.
You need a steering wheel puller you get with a deposit at autozone. the directions in the lock cylinder box will tell you how to get the old one out. you have to pay attention when taking apart the electronic part of the steering column (turn signals, cruise, etc) so you can put it back together. I would also use some good shop grease rather than wd40 for this. the last and most important step before putting it back together is to line up the lock cylinder crankshaft with the brass gear in the steering column just right so when you turn the key it springs back to the off position when you let go.
Not to bad of a repair if you aren't doing it in a subzero parking lot lol holla
yes I replaced the key cylinder this time last year. That sounds like what it may be but can't tell w/o more info plus i've never replaced an ignition switch.
You need a steering wheel puller you get with a deposit at autozone. the directions in the lock cylinder box will tell you how to get the old one out. you have to pay attention when taking apart the electronic part of the steering column (turn signals, cruise, etc) so you can put it back together. I would also use some good shop grease rather than wd40 for this. the last and most important step before putting it back together is to line up the lock cylinder crankshaft with the brass gear in the steering column just right so when you turn the key it springs back to the off position when you let go.
Not to bad of a repair if you aren't doing it in a subzero parking lot lol holla
'91, no need to pull wheel, replaced today. Next step, check electrical switch. Has been suggested it may be loose. Have a new one, not on yet. Will wait to see. Old key cylinder was hanging up even after out, so it needed replaced anyway.
you're right, i forgot the reason i pulled the wheel was because the gear on the end of the shaft for the key lock cylinder broke off in the steering column, which happens in cold weather i guess. so really you got off easy.. good luck with your repair
you're right, i forgot the reason i pulled the wheel was because the gear on the end of the shaft for the key lock cylinder broke off in the steering column, which happens in cold weather i guess. so really you got off easy.. good luck with your repair
Thanks I need it. Less S cubed, improvement. With luck when it gets daylight tomorrow, I can fix it .
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.