I was wanting to know if there is a kit or something to convert the rear drum brakes to disc on a 1977 ford F-250. Sorry if this has already been beat to death but could not really find the answer I was looking for.

 

Many companies make a disc brake conversion for the full floater dana 60 axles. The key is in the bracket. Finding just the brackets is not difficult, and you can source the rest at your local parts store.
You will need two front rotors and calipers for a chebby K20. A 1977 will work. This is a 3/4 ton front axle for a 4wd truck, and these will take the place of the drum. The drum is mounted to the rear hub via the wheel studs, and it just so happens that the front rotors on the chebby are attached in the same fashion. Remove the rear hub, knock out the studs, and install the rotor in the place of the drum. Press the studs back through and this part is done.
You will also need caliper bolts and a set of front hoses. You can use th 2wd versions for the hoses as they are shorter and a little easier to work with.
Next is the banjo bolts, and small hardware to attach everything up.
The popular chebby parts are used due to their low cost. heak I believe that I purchased calipers for around 11 dollars (US) a few days ago when I was doinf one of these swaps. Brake pads are about the same.
OK, so there are the parts and all of the goodies, so now its just time to bolt it all back up. Only takes about an hour or so. Maybe a little more, but not more than three at the most.
Now figuring out the prop valve can be different from truck to truck, and some use an adjustable valve while other opt for a larger bore master cylinder and a chebby prop valve. No real magic here, there are just some variables based upon the bore size of your master that you have now.

Start with your brackets:


KNock the studs out:


INstall the rotor where the drum was, and assemble:

 

awesome. thank you. so where do I get that bracket?

 

You can make it, or buy it. Chevk evil bay, or use your favorite search engine. Perhaps check with Jeffs Bronco graveyard for a bracket. They are a sponsor for FTE, and may have what you are looking for.
I make my own, but I have seen them fairly cheap online.

 

wanna make a set? I like to help members with cash flow if at possible

 

I aooreciate the offer, but I cant compete with the vendors that do this for a living. I cant even begin to attempt to build for the prices they do. They can buy materials in quantities that I cant even imagine.
Try these guys out, they are pretty good guys to work with. Ive purchased some parts from them. They are fair, and the prices are reasonable. Products are quality.
You can tell them that FTE Ed from California sent you. Only the owner might know who in the heak I am, and it wont be worth any discount, but what the hey, you can say it anyway. Lol.

Here is a link:

Disc Brake Adapters

 

Awesome. sounds great thanks for all the help and pics. so how much changing to the lines do I need to do and the talk about the prop valve kinda confuses me. I'm a little slow

 

What are you using for a parking brake??

 

those are overrated lol

 

so K20 rotors fit on the D60 right?

 

Yes, the K20 front rotor fits directly in place of the drum on the D60.

As far as lines go, you simply use some rubber lines, or stainless braided lines, if ou like from the caliper to the hard line. It is easy to cut the line back and re flare the end. Mount a small bracket to attach the end of the rubber line, and route it so that nothing can catch the line. In some cases the fitting will have to be replaced, but thes are available for small change at any parts store.

Unfortunaltely, these calipers do not have provisions for a parking brake. I simply dont use one, never have.
If you desire one, you can opt for a caliper from a cadillac el dorado, or even a monte carlo with disc brakes, and these will have provisions.
Other wise, you can also install an electric solenoid that will maitain pressure to hold the vehicle.
Mico as well as other companies offer these.

 

so how does the axle attach to the new rotor? I just started taking it apart but I dont have the new rotor yet so not sure how it goes back together

 

As far as ebrake calipers go i heard the cadillac ones suck,are hard to keep in adjustment, and dont hold very well.
I use this as a parking brake. mechanical ball valve line lock as it holds awesome and can be kept on for as long as you want vs. the electric one you cant.

part #b-42f2 Swagelok
As for lines I found ones that are stock for a 70's/80's chevette car that are perfect being a soft rubber hose with the proper ends and just over a foot long. 10$ was ok too. Big bore master will be needed to allow for more fluid to be pushed through system on every stroke now that the raer calipers require more fluid to operate. Downfall of a larger bore in master is less pressure but will give you a shorter travel of pedal. What I did was took a hydroboost system out of a 99 f350 with the large bore 1 3/8 master a big resevoir bottle for 4wheel discs and custom fit it so the loss in pressure from large bore was brought back up(way up) with hydroboost!! Be warned brakes are so good you need to plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear or you will lock up your tires. before i did that i could lock up my 44'' swampers at like 60km/h..
Bottom line: My brakes are bad ***!

 

O I make my own brackets as well but i weld them on so i dont run any spacers and can clock it at any angle i need still keeping the bleeder screw vertical so you can bleed the system with no air.

 

yes but the area on the drum that axle bolts to does not look like it comes off the drum to go on the disk. So????