Chasing a Vibration in my Excursion
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: ind. (kc)
spindle bearings are on 4x4 they are on the shaft threw the spindle to the hub . any way hope you found it , but idoubt it's the tie rod end , i have had lots of bad tie rod ends with out vibs. vibs usaly come from bearings or tires or drive shafts good luck barry
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Rogers, MN
I was thinking of a different bearing. Yes, the spindle bearing (the little needle bearing that the axle shaft rides on inside of the hub assembly) comes with the hub assembly. I doubt that it is the joint on the tie rod end of the drag link, but that slop could magnify some other kind of issue. I am hoping that is the problem. I agree that vibes usually come from bearings, tires, or driveshafts, but I have pretty much ruled all of those out. Well see.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: ind. (kc)
well if you feel it in the steering wheel & seat ,almost has to be in the front end, with new ball joints, wheel hub bearings,& diff. tires . what if the locking hubs are hanging up [not unlocked but in the unlocked pos.]ck. to see if you can turn the front driveshaft with it in 2x4,hubs unlocked. ihave seen um stick. just thinking barry
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 2
From: Spring Lake
One thing I forgot to mention, have you verified your hub seals (steering knuckle side) are still good? There was one point mine were kinda half in half out and everything lined up good. I got a bad vibration form the hub seal 'dragging' so to speak.
I just noticed you said it was still around driving with the rear drive shaft, could be the culprit. Really hope for your sake it's the tie rod joint, but I aint never seen one of them cause vibration before... just crappy steering
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Rogers, MN
be250-
I have removed the hubs completely (so there is absolutely no connection between the axle shaft and wheel except for the seal) and I still had the problem. But, yet they are working correctly.
5.4L to Freedom-
I just replaced all of the front seals when I replaced the Ball Joints and Wheel Bearings.
Also, I know that a bad tie rod joint won't cause a vibration; but it could make a small vibration feel worse. My brake caliper slide pins are siezed in the brake caliper bracket, so I will be replacing those. But, if one side was hanging up or acting wierd it could be magnified by that bad tie rod joint. Well, I can hope anyways. I really hope that this is the problem because after this there is only the expensive stuff to repair/replace (Transmission, Transfer Case, Pinion Bearing, etc).
Thanks to everyone for all the help and the replies.
I have removed the hubs completely (so there is absolutely no connection between the axle shaft and wheel except for the seal) and I still had the problem. But, yet they are working correctly.
5.4L to Freedom-
I just replaced all of the front seals when I replaced the Ball Joints and Wheel Bearings.
Also, I know that a bad tie rod joint won't cause a vibration; but it could make a small vibration feel worse. My brake caliper slide pins are siezed in the brake caliper bracket, so I will be replacing those. But, if one side was hanging up or acting wierd it could be magnified by that bad tie rod joint. Well, I can hope anyways. I really hope that this is the problem because after this there is only the expensive stuff to repair/replace (Transmission, Transfer Case, Pinion Bearing, etc).
Thanks to everyone for all the help and the replies.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Rogers, MN
Well, the vibration is still there. I took it in yesterday and they replaced the Drop Link that was bad, did an alignment, rotated and balanced all the tires. The vibration is still there!!!! Ahhhh!
The only thing left that I can think that is left to replace are the brake rotors, pinion bearings, or an issue with the transfer case or transmission.
I really don't want to throw any extra money at this thing right now because I can't really afford it, so I will just have to deal with it.
I would like to thank everyone for there suggestions and help. I will probably re-read this post a few times and triple check every thing that was brought up here as time allows.
Thanks again,
Greg
The only thing left that I can think that is left to replace are the brake rotors, pinion bearings, or an issue with the transfer case or transmission.
I really don't want to throw any extra money at this thing right now because I can't really afford it, so I will just have to deal with it.
I would like to thank everyone for there suggestions and help. I will probably re-read this post a few times and triple check every thing that was brought up here as time allows.
Thanks again,
Greg
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New User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi/San Antoni
Don’t give up brother… I have a 2004 f250 fx4 powerstorke with 235000mil. I also notice the other day on my truck a vibration/ humming sound on the front end only at 60-70 mph. and at low speeds there is a clicking metal sound on the front end. This is my first 4x4 so im learning as I go. I had my fathers mechanic look at the front suspension… he checked the hub’s bushings, and links all is good. But he did find a metal plate which seats between the hub and the axel ( not the dust cover) that is loose on the passenger side. He told me the plate can only be repressed back on by the dealer. The mechanic showed me with wheels up that when one spins the wheel there is a clicking sound. I have not taken to the dealer yet but I hope this helps you. 
Well, the vibration is still there. I took it in yesterday and they replaced the Drop Link that was bad, did an alignment, rotated and balanced all the tires. The vibration is still there!!!! Ahhhh!
The only thing left that I can think that is left to replace are the brake rotors, pinion bearings, or an issue with the transfer case or transmission.
I really don't want to throw any extra money at this thing right now because I can't really afford it, so I will just have to deal with it.
I would like to thank everyone for there suggestions and help. I will probably re-read this post a few times and triple check every thing that was brought up here as time allows.
Thanks again,
Greg
The only thing left that I can think that is left to replace are the brake rotors, pinion bearings, or an issue with the transfer case or transmission.
I really don't want to throw any extra money at this thing right now because I can't really afford it, so I will just have to deal with it.
I would like to thank everyone for there suggestions and help. I will probably re-read this post a few times and triple check every thing that was brought up here as time allows.
Thanks again,
Greg
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 2
From: Spring Lake
My vibration has been solved, but not repaired. U-joints and slip yoke were the culprits. I ran without the rear drive shaft and yeah my front driveshafts are shot i was able to do the front wheel drive thing and boom! no vibration. The joints in the rear shaft appear good but when I can afford to pay someone to press them out I'll have them replaced.
Then when I get more money I'll replace my front drive shaft u joints
Then when I get more money I'll replace my front drive shaft u joints
New User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi/San Antoni
Solved my vibration
I decided to take a look at my truck myself…I’ve read other post about greasing up the Auto/ lock hub. So I did this past weekend and that fixed my vibration/ humming problem. I still have a bouncing effect…especially when I come to a stop. On that same post it also says to grease the slip yoke to solve too. I’ll let you know the results when I get around to do it. 
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Rogers, MN
My truck is still the same as I left it. I still have the vibration. It is to cold for me to putz with it, so I will be waiting until spring/summer. I had a mechanic friend ride in the back a few weeks ago on the way to a gun show, and he said that it could be my Drivers side rear wheel bearing. I have only replaced the front wheel bearings so far. What is involved with replacing the rear wheel bearings? It could also be any of the bearings in the diff. I do have a factory limited slip that isn't working worth a damn, could that be the issue? I wouldn't think it would have anything to do with it when going straight, but you never know.
Thanks for asking. I appreciate all the input from everybody. I will have to become a supporter when I am back to 40 hour weeks!
Greg
Thanks for asking. I appreciate all the input from everybody. I will have to become a supporter when I am back to 40 hour weeks!
Greg
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 0
From: Tx
to the one up above w/ the small metal clicking sound, you better watch it, i had an innocent clicking metallic sound and it turns out it's ujoints on the front drive line and I dropped my driveline going 70+ on the highway. It ripped out the wiring harness(750 bucks from stealership), fuel filter, gas line, brake line, transfer case shattered, neutral safety switch broken, and a few other things. Which is why I am a paranoid freak now trying to figure out what the vibration is in my front end. DRIVING ME NUTS!