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Got it! Last night i checked the ground and power at the light blue/black wire and both were good so i assume the back light LEDs are working but i will double check that. I checked the 60 Amp fuse and it was good however there are ten 30 amp fuses and didnt know what one to check. I had replaced the switches monday so thats not the problem. I shook the boot while trying to roll the window down so if its a broken wire its open. One thing thats strange is the window safety lock on both the new and old switch dosent stop the two passenger windows from opening or closeing. Do you think that has something to do with the driver side windows not working at all?
Thanks
I have an '04 Explorer XLS that the power windows just quit working. Yesterday I programmed new remotes to unlock the doors and the windows worked fine afterward. Today when I got in the truck none of the windows worked from any of the switches. I checked the fuse under the hood and it is fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Had same problem. Windows just stopped backlight dead also. Pulled the 30 amp fuse in high voltage distribution box and metered out ok. Read on to threads and decided to give the door boot on driver side a squeeze with the lights on and truck running...just I thought a bad wire/broke somewhere in that bundle....stay tuned as that is as far as i got...windows are wroking so the wire is not completely severed.
If you need a wiring diagram for the power windows, send me a private message with the request (I have a poor memory, so please remind me which diagram you're looking for and what your vehicle is). Include an e-mail address for you and I'll send you a PDF of the relevant wiring diagram.
Hey, sent u a message, 2004 explorer xls, power window schematic?
my email address was in the message...thanks
I saw the Visitor Message yesterday while I was at work, but I didn't have the files and didn't keep the window open. I'm not able to figure out how to get back to Visitor Messages, so could you send me a Private Message with the request and e-mail address? Probably the easiest way is to click on my username to the left of this post and select "Send a private message to shorod".
found the problem, the light blue and black wire was broken in the boot to the door. This was not intermittent, it happened all of a sudden. Used a jumper to go from switch in door to the wire in the door and presto it worked. The ground wire is a little flaky looking too. Temp. fix spliced a wire on the light blue and black until the weather gets warmer and ill take the door apart and run new from switch. Thanks for info in the threads.
I'm currently on business travel and away from my service manuals. But if you send me a Private Message with the request and an e-mail address for you, I can send you a PDF of the wiring diagram for the power windows this weekend.
I have a 2005 Explorer XLT with a similar window problem. There is no power at the blue and black wire, no button LEDs, power at F1.7, F1.62, F2.17 unless I'm wrong about the breaker. It started like there was a break in the wire when I open the door I had intermittent use. Checked for breaks up to the end of the wire at the door boot up to the engine compartment. How and where can I check further?
When checking for broken wires in the accordion boot, rarely will the wire appear physically to be broken. You need to look for sharp bends in the wire where the copper strands inside the insulation may be broken. If you have steady hands and a sharp tip on a test light, you can even poke through the insulation on both sides of any suspected breaks and check for voltage across the suspect location.
I used a tester on the door wire and it was dead starting from the engine compartment. I attempted to trace it from the breaker panel under the steering wheel and if I had the same black and blue wire it was dead there also.
Originally Posted by shorod
When checking for broken wires in the accordion boot, rarely will the wire appear physically to be broken. You need to look for sharp bends in the wire where the copper strands inside the insulation may be broken. If you have steady hands and a sharp tip on a test light, you can even poke through the insulation on both sides of any suspected breaks and check for voltage across the suspect location.