New Guy Here. 4.9 Will not start
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I keep on thinking this over, there is no way that my gear could be out like I was thinking unless the crankshaft is twisted, wrong crank, or the balancer is bad. I am using the balancers hair line mark to find tdc and allign it with the 0 deg mark on the timing cover. The piston is already on its downward travel after compression before the mark lines up. The picture of the new balancer is identical to the location of the groove on the one I installed. So what now??? can anyone tell me where the third fuel pump and diverter valve are?
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From: In my own world
ok, began some re-checks this morning. First I wanted to verify there was not a problem with the diverter valve, so I went to check it.... Cant find any diverter valve or any fuel pumps that are not inside the tanks??? Did the 94 trucks not have a fuel diverter valve? Rechecked the timing with the straw method, and my timing marks do not line up where they should. The piston is already on its way back down before the marks allign. So, now I am wondering if the gears could possibly been out of time or it my junkyard balancer is no good. Everything on the balancer looked good, And when checked against the broken one the marks were not in the same places. If anyone has a known good balancer, can you check and see where the deep groove on the balancer is in relation to the key way. Mine was 180deg opposite the key way. Any other ideas. Also, how is the best way to remove, and replace the timing gears? TIA
ok, I did pull the codes and they are listed below. As far as the gear timing, I have a set of good condition gears on my core engine, But I am not sure that the gears are my issue, unless there is a way that the ring gear section can seperate from the rest of the assembly, The timing marks were worn off when the timing cover got pushed back by the pully, but the is the extent of the damage I can see to the gears. I did use the gears on the donor to be check that they alligned. With the keyway on the crankshaft pully facing straight up the thrust plat holes were alligned, just the same as the donor engine with the timing marks alligned. We are short on cash around here, so I cannot go buying parts till I can confirm a diagnosis, or be very certain of the problem. Steel gears are definatly a consideration, I will call the parts store and see about renting the tools to change the gears over. Here are the codes, I am a little concerned about the 556 code, maybe a big part of the problem.
mem codes
116 ECT out of self test range
636 TOT sensor voltage out of self test range
114 ACT out of self test range
Continuous Memory codes
556 Fuel pump circuit Failure (but I can hear the fuel pump working, it cycled twice when I was checking the codes, just before the CEL started to flash)
mem codes
116 ECT out of self test range
636 TOT sensor voltage out of self test range
114 ACT out of self test range
Continuous Memory codes
556 Fuel pump circuit Failure (but I can hear the fuel pump working, it cycled twice when I was checking the codes, just before the CEL started to flash)
Yeah, not sure how true it is, but that was the story I was told. The interior is in really good shape, so at least I know the truck wasn't treated like total *****. Still trying to find the right tool to pull the cam gear and the tools to reinstall both gears. So far I am only pulling parts from the donor engine till I get all the right tools to go from start to finish with the job. Do you think it is possible to change out the gears without having to pull the radiator again. I have pulled that damn thing out about 3 times already. Tired of doing it over and over. Worst case I will pull it again, I just dont like standing and laying in all that water.
Oh, does anyone know if these engines are interference engines? I may have to adjust the gears to allign the marks.
Oh, does anyone know if these engines are interference engines? I may have to adjust the gears to allign the marks.
I keep on thinking this over, there is no way that my gear could be out like I was thinking unless the crankshaft is twisted, wrong crank, or the balancer is bad. I am using the balancers hair line mark to find tdc and allign it with the 0 deg mark on the timing cover. The piston is already on its downward travel after compression before the mark lines up. The picture of the new balancer is identical to the location of the groove on the one I installed. So what now??? can anyone tell me where the third fuel pump and diverter valve are?
FTE Legend
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From: In my own world
almost forgot your other question, starting in 1990, there is only 1 pump per tank. these are switched electricly, and there is no deverter per say. the fuel running back to the tank is taken care of with check valves, and when this messes up, most times it just refills the other tank while your pulling fuel off the opisit one. guess that made sence?
Elder User
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As stated earlier, the fuel tanks have a prob. of just pumping the gas into the other tank.
If it is cranking hard, then are u sure it is cranking fast enoug, and this isn't just a eak starter issue. I know your a mechanic, but not being there to hear it, I am throwing out ALL possibilitys, even the best mechanics get worn out and over look things I know I done it more than once
Cranking hard and firing ocasianally is usually a sign of a slow crank, or timing issues (cam timming or ignition timming)
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From: In my own world
another thought, once you get the piston on tdc, mabe you can sneek a mirror in the oil fil in the valve cover, and see if the valves are closed on tdc, when the piston is on tdc. it really sucks to remove the valve cover, unless you have too.
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I would definatly have to agree with you on the valve cover thing, I was looking at the intake earlier and just cursing ford for putting those bolts in from the bottom. But I have yet to worry about the valve cover. And yes, I am a bit burned out on this truck, I have had it here at the house for over a month waiting on the title, finally got the title and started doing work on the truck just to find out I have gotten nowhere that I can tell yet. In a bit I am going to go out and reinstall the distributor cap and stuff and try to get it to start. I have not actually tried to start it today, been letting the battery charge to make sure the starter will turn fast enough. Will let you know what happens.
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It RUNS and it IDLES!!!!! I was just playing around last night and decided to check the fuel pressure valve and see if there was pressure building. so I jumped the fuel pump test port to ground. I heard the pump run real good, and then kinda groan like it was fighting the pressure. turned the key and...... vroom, moved the distiburtor a bit and she smoothed out and revved up. Now to set the timing. 
And I was able to make it run still after disconnecting the test port. Maybe it has been a big priming issue?
And I was able to make it run still after disconnecting the test port. Maybe it has been a big priming issue?
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From: Almost Heaven
Good luck my Ford Brother!! I hope you get everything sorted out! Take some pictures if you ever get the chance! The 300 is a good Six banger. Decent power and bullet proof. Mine has been making noises for the longest time but is still getting me from A to B!
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probably the spark plugs were wet from trying to start it so much, and dried out while you charged the battery. good deal, glad you have that part done. hope you good luck on the rest of it.
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well, the truck will start, run, and drive. Still having some issues. The timing is not set yet, I will probably have to use a vacuum gauge as suggested above as I cant seem to get the timing mark anywhere near close enough to get it set with my light. Also I think it is going to need some good plugs and wires. Apparantly the previous owner went really cheap on the plugs. I am not a fan of the $1.49 spark plugs. Some people call them autolites. They look fairly decent, but I would rather have a bit better quality than them. Probably get the Motorcraft ones instead. Right now I have had the truck up to about 35mph, but when the truck shifts into 2nd going uphill it really sputters, coughs, and drags. Everything else seems to work ok so far. Oil pressure sits right in the middle of the gauge (slightly above), engine does not overheat (so far). And best of all.... The radio works!!! Hopefully once all is operating properly I will be able to drive it to my shop and recharge the A/C system (I drained it). Anything else I should consider? I will probably be looking into a new balancer instead of the used one, that way maybe I can get the timing dead on where it should be.
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From: In my own world
top off the tanks with fresh gas, the gas in it now is probably bad. my old tracter will run in the spring, but not very well until I add fresh gas. then it runs great. modern gas only has a 6 month shelf life, and is usually useing alcahol, wich evaporates in a short amount of time, so it don't take much for it to be bad. don't waste your money on platnum plugs in a 300. they make no improvement that I have ever noticed, they just cost more
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I put about 2-3 gallons of fresh gas earlier (tank was almost empty). ran it awhile, and it still is acting the same. I guess I will have to see if I can get the timing adjusted a bit closer and give it a good tune up. One of the spark plug wires had broken, I re-crimped the end back on it, but I figure they still need to be replaced. Might just pull the set off my buddy's 95 f150 (302) and see if it helps any. I will work on some pictures once I get the engine running a bit better. Anyone interested in buying a core engine or any parts from it. Engine still rotates good, not sure the cylinder conditions. I got $300 in it, will gladly sell for $150. Includes everthing except the harness, timing cover, and crankshaft pully. I am in the Atlanta Ga area
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Well, another kick in the ***** today! I finally think I got the timing set right, head down the road, hit 3rd at about 30mph and the truck starts to really buck on me. Took it back to the house to check the trans fluid. Looked about 2 quarts over full and very black, there is no red left to the fluid at all. So I dropped the trans pan to see if there was any metal, No metal in pan, and the magnet really wasn't as badly covered in the clutch material as I expected. I guess that the previous owners had never heard of a transmission service before. I am no transmission expert, but has anyone had any luck in doing a service on a transmission with the fluid badly burnt and have it work properly. I know that usually when the fluid is burnt, it is not a good sign, but the lack of metal in the pan has me wondering. I hate to throw money at a filter and fluid if the trans. is going to need replaced anyway. The truck has 150,012 miles on it now. What kind of fluid do these trucks run, anyone know off hand?
Cargo Master
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You'll need some Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid (Mercon being Fords ATF Spec. Usually I find it labelled as Dexron III/Mercon around these parts.) If you don't mind the cost, take it into a shop for a trans flush, you won't regret it, but if all you want to do is at home, drain it and change the filter, top it back off with fresh fluid, and drive it for a bit, drain it out and fill again. The torque converter is going to be full of old black fluid, and there's not a thing you can do about that without dropping the trans and pulling the converter. Might take as many as three or four times to have nice healthy red fluid again, but I doubt the trans is shot.