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its an educated guess pat. its some ideas of what to look for, without being there this is all have. or pyshically looking at it its hard todo.
i forgot you had the wet basement issues sorry.
its an educated guess pat. its some ideas of what to look for, without being there this is all have. or pyshically looking at it its hard todo.
i forgot you had the wet basement issues sorry.
Jack, know the feeling of trying to fix something from a distance. Without actually being there to see & put your hands on it, all you can do is guess. At the least, it's educated guesses based on prior experience & may be the answer. If I ever get motivated & go check some of the ideas I've been given, I might actually find it. Today would be a good day, supposed to be 65° today.
Okay, latest update, went out & tried u-joints. Both seem tight, slight play in tailshaft. After thinking ( know that's a dangerous thing to do ), u-joints don't seem likely as it still shakes at idle, not moving. Not as bad, but still definitely there. Not sure where the ERG valve is on this fuel injected thing. Found what I think is it, bolted to right side of intake with a metal tube coming down & curving back under the intake over the top of the valve cover. Has a 2 wire connector & a single wire plugged into it. All wires seem tight. While under it I discovered some unrelated problems ( exhaust loose, heat shields rusted through, & a tranny leak ). Not concerned with them at the time, want to fix the shaking / rough idle. Almost seems like a bad miss, but if you read the beginning, all plugs, wires, cap, & rotor plus all filters were replaced ( needed those anyway ). Haven't gotten energetic enough to try tracing plug wires to see if they're crossed or not. Actually not even sure which one is supposed to go where. Need to find a book. Not really fond of these paper ones The Zone sells, would rather find a Motors or Chilton's. I would think if it was crossed wires, it would shake all the time, regardless of RPMs. Would even think that it would be worse at higher RPMs due to the speed of the engine. My mind doesn't always work right, so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Possibly if someone can draw me a picture, doesn't need to be pretty, a circle at the front with 4 lines to each side & a reference point where on the cap I should start. Just so I can figure out which wire goes to which plug.
The Haynes book that the zone sells is actually pretty good for diagnostics and it will give the correct firing order for your engine and plug wire routing. It also covers many of the basic service items and assumes the user is a DIY and may not have access to specialized tools. Its also cheaper. At one time or another I had the factory service, Chiltons , and Motors manuals. Nothing can beat the FSM but for basic service and maintenance the Haynes is fine.
YMMV
rikard
The Haynes book that the zone sells is actually pretty good for diagnostics and it will give the correct firing order for your engine and plug wire routing. It also covers many of the basic service items and assumes the user is a DIY and may not have access to specialized tools. Its also cheaper. At one time or another I had the factory service, Chiltons , and Motors manuals. Nothing can beat the FSM but for basic service and maintenance the Haynes is fine.
YMMV
rikard
Rikard, thanks for that. Will have to see if they have one there. Do like the cheaper part.
Okay, problem found & fixed. Called myself a bunch of stuff that I can't repeat here on . Talk about feeling like a ! Plug wire off the plug . Put it back on & my, my how much smoother. Knew it was going to be something simple. Had to be with all the tune-up done. Just never thought to look at them, they were all new. Note to self: Remember to check the basics before getting excited.
Very glad of that. I still can't believe I didn't look at those first instead of asking the experts on . Something that simple I should have seen or looked for first .
pat buddy,
thanx for that but i'm no expert. atleast it was something major. like the valves too tight
can eventally break a cam. timing chain will make your compression fluctuate eratically.
what you had was a dead miss. or a cold cylinder. that'll cause a vibration but no. its different. its hard for me to be accurate without being there. ok pat.
i know allot of stuff about mechanics and i don't mind sharing info with ya's. it keeps my brain active.