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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

chrome removal

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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 06:15 AM
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chrome removal

I want to paint a chrome air cleaner. I know paint will not adhere well to chrome. Can I just rough it up with a scotchbrite pad or some such, or must it be removed? Muriatic acid solution soak?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 07:46 AM
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I used a wire brush on a drill then painted with engine paint mine never chipped the 6 years I had it on. I only did the top plate however, I've since went back to an original ford air cleaner.

 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 08:39 AM
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Jim, I think that you are on the right track with the scotchbrite. In addition to giving the part a little tooth, you may want to look into an adhesion promoter. There are various brands and types on the market these days, I'm sure that you could find one in your area that would meet your needs.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 08:42 AM
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Acid etching primer.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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etch prime or an epoxy are your best bets.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 04:00 PM
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I highly recommend the red scotchbrite discs (about 3 inch diameter) that you put in an air tool. Then an etching primer as already suggested.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 05:29 PM
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Altho I've done a little, (poorly) I am not knowledgeable about auto paints and painting. Is an etching primer something I would have to buy at an auto paint store? All I want to do is paint the 14" chrome top of my Edelbrock filter housing, so I'm not willing to get too elaborate. A test spin with a red scotchbtrite disc earlier scuffed it nicely. I was just going to prime and paint. (Krylon)
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 07:22 PM
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Just about any automotive paint supplier in your area can offer a variety of 16oz,spray-bomb self-etching primers..expect to pay around $20.I've used the Pol#8 with good results..be sure and clean the surface with a good cleaner,I would use laquer thinner, cos I've got that handy..then spray a light "fog-coat" ..wait a few minutes,spray it again with a covering coat..then while the paint is still "tacky" ,give it one good "wet" smooth-coat....not "too" much, you don't want it to run, and let it dry. Most cans say the paint is dry in 1 hour..but with the method described..ya better wait 24 hrs before sanding. Scuff "lightly"(as Charlie say's..for "tooth") with a clean fine grade scotch-brite pad,give it a blast of compressed air to clear the dust and finish in your choice of colors..try and keep your fingerprints out of the paints..LoL!
 
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