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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 07:35 PM
  #1  
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starter issues

so I originally posted this in the above sticky but that doesn't get much traffic, and now come to find out, probably i posted this in the wrong spot. yea, the truck blows some white smoke on cold mornings, but not much so I just attributed it to unburnt fuel. (after reading the whole thread, i know better now) it has been starting very sluggish, like the batts were dead for about two months. I now have two brand new 1000ca/850cca batts and a new alternator. 400 dollars later still same problem. Batts are charging at 14.75 and are fully charged. so today i test the starter motor and it is pulling 800AMPS. is it safe to say this is my problem?
i don't know what a starter is supposed to pull, but common sense tells me that 800 AMPS is pretty much all those batts have in em. after much searching and reading here, it looks like the starter to get is the DB low amp/high torq gear driven one. I'm skeptical because $137 shipped seems alittle "light" on price given the price of the OEM one. guess i just need some advice from the experts here, is this the right thing to do? running out of cash and tired of chasing gremlins.
truck is a 97 F-350 7.3L with 85,000 miles.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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Looks like you have a nice rig there with low miles. I haven't had to put a stater in one of these. But from what I've read getting the old one out is the hard part. There is the DB starter. There are some others. Somebody will chime in who knows more about them than I do. PM me if you get real tired of chasing those Gremlins.

And Welcome to FTE!
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 01:01 AM
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I saw the DB starter here as well. I may have posted in the thread you read. I liked it and I liked the price. The next time I need 1 I will try that.

It sure sounds like your starter is dragging pulling that many amps.

EDIT: Welcome to FTE.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 02:28 AM
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Welcome to FTE

I put a factory SD starter in my truck about 2 months ago b/c mine was cranking slow and i know with these Optima batteries that they aren't low on power. haha. the SD starter is supposed to have more torque than our OEM starter. i know when i put this one in there it cranks FAST now!!!! haha. i was very surprised at how fast the engine turns now compared to how slow the old one was getting.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 06:08 AM
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Partial Hijack...


on a related note: My starter pulls fine when the hot battery cable stays tight to the post on the solenoid. Somehow the solenoid post is slightly bent and this is the second time the battery cable has worked loose. The threads closest to the base of the post are about half stripped, so I made some copper washers so the nut could engage better threads closer to the end of the post. But, I am thinking something more permanent is in order.
A quick look, while I was under the truck in the rain last night firming up the connection, makes it appear as if this is a replaceable solenoid.
True? False? Any one do it before? And, can it be done without removing the starter, if it can be done at all?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 11:47 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Fattyfat1
so I originally posted this in the above sticky but that doesn't get much traffic, and now come to find out, probably i posted this in the wrong spot. yea, the truck blows some white smoke on cold mornings, but not much so I just attributed it to unburnt fuel. (after reading the whole thread, i know better now) it has been starting very sluggish, like the batts were dead for about two months. I now have two brand new 1000ca/850cca batts and a new alternator. 400 dollars later still same problem. Batts are charging at 14.75 and are fully charged. so today i test the starter motor and it is pulling 800AMPS. is it safe to say this is my problem?
i don't know what a starter is supposed to pull, but common sense tells me that 800 AMPS is pretty much all those batts have in em. after much searching and reading here, it looks like the starter to get is the DB low amp/high torq gear driven one. I'm skeptical because $137 shipped seems alittle "light" on price given the price of the OEM one. guess i just need some advice from the experts here, is this the right thing to do? running out of cash and tired of chasing gremlins.
truck is a 97 F-350 7.3L with 85,000 miles.

Yes, I would almost guarantee it's the starter, mine had 83,000 when I went through EXACTLY the same thing... same symptoms and steps... (replaced batteries (but not the alternator) Even pulled the starter and had it tested, tested good, cleaned all the contacts, removed the cables, cleaned them and the grounding point on the block... put the old starter in and still no go...


So, I figured that even though the starter tested good, it wasn't and on the basis that it really couldn't be anything else, I replaced the starter... and all was well and has been for 20k miles...


I believe these are the three most comon failures or weak points on our trucks:

1) GPR - stock version fails often, should be upgraded
2) Starter - Same as above
3) E4OD - In stock form will fail, minor upgrades help immensely to keep them intact and running strong (well, the TC isn't a minor upgrade)...
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 04:04 PM
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ckal, I do not know if that solenoid is replaceable or not. Try running a JAM nut on the post. This will keep the cable from working itself loose.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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And dont forget cps
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 04:54 PM
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If your down on cash and don,t want to fork out $130 bucks for a new starter get your old one rebuilt I did and it has been good for a few years now and was less than half the price of a new one.

Just a suggestion

Good luck
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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DB starter is on it's way. should arrive UPS on monday. Now if I only had a warm dry spot to change them out...... I'm such a sissy
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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I believe the proper term for what you have there is starter drag, and yes there is nothing you can do other than replace the dag gone thing.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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I wouldn't call you a sissy. I would want a warm dry spot as well.LOL
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 10:30 PM
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Thank you eveyone. Is there anything I need to know for this swap besides disconnecting neg terminals on my batts and the need for a couple of extensions to get the upper bolt? I will be laying in my driveway in the cold and rain doing this job i'm sure, so I'll want it to go as smoothly as possible. not my favorite month here in WA.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 11:33 PM
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Truthfully, the project is quite easy. I did mine in about 20 minutes. The hardest part for me was R&R of the terminals on the starter. The Actual starter almost fell right out.LOL
 
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 12:14 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by ckal704

on a related note: My starter pulls fine when the hot battery cable stays tight to the post on the solenoid. Somehow the solenoid post is slightly bent and this is the second time the battery cable has worked loose. The threads closest to the base of the post are about half stripped, so I made some copper washers so the nut could engage better threads closer to the end of the post. But, I am thinking something more permanent is in order.
A quick look, while I was under the truck in the rain last night firming up the connection, makes it appear as if this is a replaceable solenoid.
True? False? Any one do it before? And, can it be done without removing the starter, if it can be done at all?
Yes it can be done Ive changed several of them they run around $30 at most parts stores. That soleniod is basically the same as the one on the fenderwell. So unless your starter isnt turning at all then it probably isnt bad. However if your starter wont turn at all the solenoid on the fender well as well as the one on the starter should be suspect, then a failed bendix on the starter itself.
 
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