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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:37 PM
  #16  
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andrewc53
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From: Dayton MD
Originally Posted by CampSpringsJohn
OK guys, help me out here. Is it the IDM or the PCM that can get wet from a leaking windshield? Or am I thinking of the 94 to 97 trucks.

The PCM goes through the firewall right by the Ebrake the IDM is under the left splash guard on the firewall. Take your pick. My windshield does not leak water into the cab. I do have a bulley dog chip plugged into the PCM with four setting dial stock 25 hp 40 hp 100 hp. I took that out at one time made no difference.A Curtis
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:47 PM
  #17  
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guzzle92
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From: Northern Colorado
Originally Posted by andrewc53
That did work a couple times but no more. This problem only comes up in wet weather high humidity. If I let the truck get warm it goes away till it gets wet again.
OK, The things that control the injectors are the HPOP, IPR, ICP and IDM. With wet weather the IPR and ICP are pretty well protected on the top of the engine but if you fender skirting is leaking and allowing water to get on the IDM, that could cause a problem.

Before I bought a new IDM, I would pull the fender shirting off and check the connector on the IDM, clean it up if necessary and apply some dielectric grease on the connector's sealing surface and try it to see if that clears it up. While you are at it, check the PCM connector at the firewall, the ICP connector and the IPR connector and apply dielectric grease to all of them.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:59 PM
  #18  
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IPR, ICP not sure what these are but checking the IDM sounds right thanks A Curtis
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 01:24 PM
  #19  
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guzzle92
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From: Northern Colorado
IPR - Injector Pressure Regulator - Screwed into rear of HPOP w/electrical connection.
ICP - Injector Control Pressure Sensor, top front of driver's side head w/ electrical connection.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:03 PM
  #20  
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Having a problem with the bolt holding the oil check rod. Rod wants to spin and I don't want to break it. Whats the solution
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:02 PM
  #21  
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From: Payson, AZ
If you are talking about having trouble puling out the dipstick and/or pushing it back in then gently push the top of the dipstick tube toward the firewall. That's what I did when having this problem. Had The bracket can get bent while working on the engine and then the dipstick is tough to get in and out.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:04 PM
  #22  
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If you are talking about having trouble pulling out the dipstick and/or pushing it back in then gently push the top of the dipstick tube toward the firewall. That's what I did when having this problem. Had to push it back about an inch or so. The bracket holding the dipstick tube can get bent while working on the engine and then the dipstick is tough to get in and out.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:11 PM
  #23  
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F350-6
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Originally Posted by andrewc53
Having a problem with the bolt holding the oil check rod. Rod wants to spin and I don't want to break it. Whats the solution
Are you trying to remove the valve cover? If you're trying to remove the nut that holds the dipstick flange in place, you'll need to grab the flange with a pair of vice grips or something while you break the nut loose. Otherwise you'll end up wrapping the dipstick around your socket.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:24 PM
  #24  
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From: Payson, AZ
Originally Posted by F350-6
Are you trying to remove the valve cover? If you're trying to remove the nut that holds the dipstick flange in place, you'll need to grab the flange with a pair of vice grips or something while you break the nut loose. Otherwise you'll end up wrapping the dipstick around your socket.
Now I understand what he means. DUH!!!!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 02:13 PM
  #25  
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yes hang onto that nut that is under the flange of the dipstick or it will look like this when your done.....
[IMG]<a href="http://s494.photobucket.com/albums/rr301/Bergerson8878/?action=view&current=truckboxes.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr301/Bergerson8878/truckboxes.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 08:25 PM
  #26  
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From: Dayton MD
That dip tube was a bitch. I did get it loose without it looking like the pic above. Did both valve covers and the connectors and inner harness were fine on both I did the 25 cent fix, just to be safe. I also took all the wiring harness connectors apart and put a little dielectric grease on them. Hope to get it all together tomorrow and see if it runs. A Curtis
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 07:46 AM
  #27  
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This is just a follow up on my problem. I ordered a reman IDM Thinking for 200.00 I could rule that out. While waiting on that to get here I did all connectors including the three big harness connectors going through the firewall and CPU. I flipped the dog house and cleaned up the engine bay. The IDM got here and installed it and the truck would not fire. I put mine back in and it fired right up. The pins had some oxidation on them , I put some dielectric grease on them. Well it rained today and the truck started fine and ran fine. I'm still not sure it's fixed but time will tell. Sorry for the long post but wanted all who helped to know what's going on. Thanks a bunch. A Curtis
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 08:03 AM
  #28  
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We always are glad to hear back from folks that found out the problem. Knowing what fixed yours, will come in handy for fixing someone elses down the road that has the same symptoms. Keep us posted.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 08:09 PM
  #29  
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Kinda rude to get the help and never post back. I here that. If the problem pops up again I know the great fokes around here will help me out .Thanks A Curtis
 
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