MPG
geting about 13 -14 mpg.
runs about 3000 rpm doing 65...
i want to put a 300 in with some type of od trans automatic .
like to keep the stick but im the only one in the family who can drive it!
the aod seems to be the only option?
i dont want change the rear gears either
just want to be able to drive the truck on the freeway!
My opinion on the 300 with an OD is that you should have at least 3.73 gears. 4.10 would be better. 3.55s with a .75 OD ratio is only an effective ratio of 2.67 Way to high to be using a 130 horse engine against a 20 mph headwind.
A 3.73 would .75 OD at 2.80 total ratio
A 3.89 at 2.91
A 4.10 at 3.08
I had an OD with 3.55s. Way too high for going 75 against the wind.
I had good all around power with the 3.08 gear. I had smaller tires back then, however.
geting about 13 -14 mpg.
runs about 3000 rpm doing 65...
i want to put a 300 in with some type of od trans automatic .
like to keep the stick but im the only one in the family who can drive it!
the aod seems to be the only option?
i dont want change the rear gears either
just want to be able to drive the truck on the freeway!
You are willing to swap the engine and transmission but not your differential gearing? Why?
If you want a fuel miser you might want to look into a "light weight" 2wd F-100 /F-150 with the I6 or 302 and manual trans. With a 3.08 gear you could get decent fuel milage. Nothing great though. Maybe 18 at max.
I find that high gears in a truck to be worthless. When I tow it is usualy around 5-6k trailered weight. I got 400lbs sitting in the bed for winter weight at the moment. I would have no problom laying a thousand pounds in the bed still. Even if all I used it for was comuting I would go with 3.55s a 302 and an M5OD. This coupled to a low GVWR shortbox F150 would potentialy offer 21+ mpg on the highway. There is insufficent torque amplification for any hard use on gearing below 3.55. 3.73/3.89 gears generaly offering the best utility milage combination in my opinion.
Trucks are not cars. Getting 16+ mpg is reasonable on the highway unloaded. My carbed 85 4x4 gets 17 with a direct drive NP435 trany? Why? Because I tuned it correctly and dont drive 80mph in a truck!
Last edited by flipklos; Nov 30, 2009 at 09:04 PM. Reason: punctuation
You are willing to swap the engine and transmission but not your differential gearing? Why?
If you want a fuel miser you might want to look into a "light weight" 2wd F-100 /F-150 with the I6 or 302 and manual trans. With a 3.08 gear you could get decent fuel milage. Nothing great though. Maybe 18 at max.
2 i can change the engine and tranny myself, never touched a differential
3 living in pa i need a 4x4...
I find that high gears in a truck to be worthless. When I tow it is usualy around 5-6k trailered weight. I got 400lbs sitting in the bed for winter weight at the moment. I would have no problom laying a thousand pounds in the bed still. Even if all I used it for was comuting I would go with 3.55s a 302 and an M5OD. This coupled to a low GVWR shortbox F150 would potentialy offer 21+ mpg on the highway. There is insufficent torque amplification for any hard use on gearing below 3.55. 3.73/3.89 gears generaly offering the best utility milage combination in my opinion.
Trucks are not cars. Getting 16+ mpg is reasonable on the highway unloaded. My carbed 85 4x4 gets 17 with a direct drive NP435 trany? Why? Because I tuned it correctly and dont drive 80mph in a truck!
You have 400 lbs in your bed? I have about 300. With more weight in my truck bed, will I be able to climb hills with less chance of wheel hop? Or does bed weight not mean anything when it comes to wheel hop?
For a man who can change an engine and transmission, a differential shouldn't be too difficult. I watched my dad do it. Seems like the main thing is keeping everything clean, organized, making sure everything is lined up and put together correctly. Basically you cannot be **** enough about keeping everything lined up.
Anyway good luck with everything.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
On a Chevy one of the shocks on the rear axle angles forward, the other angles back, on a Ford they both go forward. I think if Ford would have done like chevy the hop wouldn't have been so bad. All my Fords have had bad hop.
My current '91 gets maybe 12 MPG on a good day, got 15.15 once crusing at 55MPH but that was before it started running like s***.
My '88 F150 reg cab 4x4 300 ZF5 3.55 got about 17.5 on the highway.
Wish I could get my '91 to do that

Also, I have towed about 8K with 31s and 3.08s. Really isn't too bad at all. 3.55s would be better, but the 3.08 does perfectly fine on flat ground and mild hills. The 300 makes enough torque to pull it in 5th gear at 1600 RPM.
The wheel hop sounds like the axle is loading up along the horizontal axis and suddenly releasing. A bit of weight may help the problom by increasing the amount of load that needs to be applied prior to release. Howver when it does go there would be more energy wrapped up in the sping so the hop would be worse.
Do you have a factory sway bar? My 96 did not as it was a very basic XL. That may aleviate the problom if you dont as it would limit the amount of twist that could be imposed on the springs. Also If I remember correctly you have a 2WD truck with 31s on it. If you added a lift to the rear you have increased the distance from the spring hangers. That would cause the axle itself to have a greater leverage potential in relation to stock. Excerbating the problom more.
I have had this problom of wheel hop. Though only under high power light load conditions. Thats why I mentioned dirt hills.
Chevy 6.2- I find towing in OD to be completely stupid. It is dangerous. Possibly a unloaded car trailer on a low geared modern diesel. NEVER on the truck you mentioned. You are overworking the engine. You are loosing the advantage of compression braking. You have near zero ability to accelerate in an emergency. Wasting fuel. Ruining your tranny. Above all. Ford states to never tow in OD right in the manual. If I towed in any of my families vehicles. Auto or manual and they caught me in OD I would be in a geniuine world of s**t. That is just stupidly dangerous. You must like buying trannys.
The wheel hop sounds like the axle is loading up along the horizontal axis and suddenly releasing. A bit of weight may help the problom by increasing the amount of load that needs to be applied prior to release. Howver when it does go there would be more energy wrapped up in the sping so the hop would be worse.
Do you have a factory sway bar? My 96 did not as it was a very basic XL. That may aleviate the problom if you dont as it would limit the amount of twist that could be imposed on the springs. Also If I remember correctly you have a 2WD truck with 31s on it. If you added a lift to the rear you have increased the distance from the spring hangers. That would cause the axle itself to have a greater leverage potential in relation to stock. Excerbating the problom more.
I have had this problom of wheel hop. Though only under high power light load conditions. Thats why I mentioned dirt hills.
Chevy 6.2- I find towing in OD to be completely stupid. It is dangerous. Possibly a unloaded car trailer on a low geared modern diesel. NEVER on the truck you mentioned. You are overworking the engine. You are loosing the advantage of compression braking. You have near zero ability to accelerate in an emergency. Wasting fuel. Ruining your tranny. Above all. Ford states to never tow in OD right in the manual. If I towed in any of my families vehicles. Auto or manual and they caught me in OD I would be in a geniuine world of s**t. That is just stupidly dangerous. You must like buying trannys.
Perhaps the hill is simply JUST THAT STEEP! haha. It really is pretty steep. People simply do not get up or down that hill in the winter. My truck started to slide one day just because it was raining (I was trying to turn around and my truck was sideways, made my front end start to slide).


