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It appears that there isn't a set torque for the nut. You have to torque it so that it requires 15 ft-lbs of torque to rotate the pinion shaft.
The force required to rotate the pinion is in-lbs, NOT ft-lbs!!! Also, 15 isn't a set number, if you're reassembling with a used bearing, it should be 3-5 in-lbs more than it was originally. This should be checked with a good in-lbs torque wrench (not a clicker), with the brakes removed. I would advise you have someone do the work that is familiar with differentials. Also, you should use a new crush sleeve, reusing the old one can cause problems getting the bearing preload right.
I was really just looking for the amount of torque to add to the nut since I was not replacing the bearings. The task is not a difficult one and yes I removed the wheels/calipers checked the load on the nut as the pinion was spinning using a dial indicating in/lb torque wrench. I even counted and recorded the threads just to see if there would be any difference once I replaced the nut. So it's all back together and is running great. I guess I'm wondering now what is the best way to clean the vent tube for the rear axle? I want to do this because a month ago I had the left and right axle seals replaced and now I just replaced the front seal. So I'm want to make sure the vent is clean because I don't want any new seals seeping any time soon.
They usually get plugged near the end of the hose, so a piece of wire does the trick. I hit mine with compressed air from the inside when I had the carrier out.
I was thinking of using a wire in the end of the hose. But is there a one way check valve at the bottom that will prevent what I'm knocking loose in the hose from dropping somewhere I don't want it to? I just don't know how the vent works...
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