how to do the breaks 2006 F-150???????
#1
how to do the breaks 2006 F-150???????
Hey its about time to do the breaks in my truck I was just woundering How hard are they to do on the F-150 ?? Its been a verry long time scince I have done breaks on any truck so dose any one know wear I could get a picture diagrame of how to do it all. Allso what kinda pads should I get ?? the Rotors look fine to me as far as I can tell and do I have to get any hardwear with the bteak pads or what ?
#2
I assume you are talking about the front brakes (Brakes = like what makes your truck stop, Break= Like when a Chevy breaks down)
I think they are easy to do.
Jack up truck, use jack stands
remove tire (either one or both depending on how many jacks you have)
It is the easiest if you can get both tires off of the ground at the same time.
Turn the steering wheel so you can get at the back of the caliper the easiest.
At this point I like to take a flat blade screwdriver, and stick it in the slot of the middle of the caliper, and pry it against the rotor to compress the piston in the caliper. You can either do this a little to loosen up the caliper, or you can pry as far as you can and see if you can get the piston back into the caliper, sometimes you can get it far enough, sometimes you have to use a channel lock or a C clamp (or the proper tool) to compress the caliper further.
Take (I believe a 13mm or 15mm) wrench, remove bolts attaching caliper.
Lift the caliper off of the bracket and pads. The pads should stay with the bracket.
Either tie the caliper up with zip ties, or set it aside so it isn't hanging by the brake line.
Then take ( I believe an 18mm) wrench and remove the two bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle, remove the caliper bracket.
Sometimes the brake rotor is rusted on pretty well. Take a 3lb hammer, and hit the rotor on the corner of the surface that the studs are mounted on (careful, dont hit the studs). You can try hitting it on the surface the pad rides on, but sometimes it will wind up breaking the rotor into pieces.
After you have the rotor off, you are 1/2 way done. Now take the caliper bracket, and make sure the slide pins move in and out freely. Inspect the surface the brake pads sit in. If they are rusty, remove the anti-rattle cilps, and clean everything up with brake parts cleaner, and a wire brush.
Some people prefer to put grease on the back of the pads, and the surface the pads sit in, however I believe that it just attracts dirt and causes the pads to stick later on down the road. I usually just clean them up good and apply no grease. Then put your rotor on, bolt on your caliper bracket, insert pads, put caliper on, put wheel on, and you are good to go.
I think they are easy to do.
Jack up truck, use jack stands
remove tire (either one or both depending on how many jacks you have)
It is the easiest if you can get both tires off of the ground at the same time.
Turn the steering wheel so you can get at the back of the caliper the easiest.
At this point I like to take a flat blade screwdriver, and stick it in the slot of the middle of the caliper, and pry it against the rotor to compress the piston in the caliper. You can either do this a little to loosen up the caliper, or you can pry as far as you can and see if you can get the piston back into the caliper, sometimes you can get it far enough, sometimes you have to use a channel lock or a C clamp (or the proper tool) to compress the caliper further.
Take (I believe a 13mm or 15mm) wrench, remove bolts attaching caliper.
Lift the caliper off of the bracket and pads. The pads should stay with the bracket.
Either tie the caliper up with zip ties, or set it aside so it isn't hanging by the brake line.
Then take ( I believe an 18mm) wrench and remove the two bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle, remove the caliper bracket.
Sometimes the brake rotor is rusted on pretty well. Take a 3lb hammer, and hit the rotor on the corner of the surface that the studs are mounted on (careful, dont hit the studs). You can try hitting it on the surface the pad rides on, but sometimes it will wind up breaking the rotor into pieces.
After you have the rotor off, you are 1/2 way done. Now take the caliper bracket, and make sure the slide pins move in and out freely. Inspect the surface the brake pads sit in. If they are rusty, remove the anti-rattle cilps, and clean everything up with brake parts cleaner, and a wire brush.
Some people prefer to put grease on the back of the pads, and the surface the pads sit in, however I believe that it just attracts dirt and causes the pads to stick later on down the road. I usually just clean them up good and apply no grease. Then put your rotor on, bolt on your caliper bracket, insert pads, put caliper on, put wheel on, and you are good to go.
#3
I 've got 44000 on my 06 f150.Already have put 2 full sets on.I dont have the rotors turned,it doesn,t help.Ford has the worst rotors made.When they get too thin i'll buy a really good set for the front.I use the autozone life time warranty pads.
It takes me 15 minutes a wheel.You need a 10mm or it might be an 11 or 13 box end wrench a big c clamp and strong flat pc of steel.Lay the steel across both pistons, crank all the way in. your done.Watch that spring it will pop of place real easy.Oh and put the caliper on a 5 gallon bucket,and free the small wire by taking out of those 2 little cable holders.That way you dont need to un hook the batt.Un hooking the sensor can on occasion blow an air bag.
Its real easy...good luck ...1 last thing it really helps if you pull the master cylinder away from the booster(you dont need to un hook brake lines)And turn the the small piston in a 1/4 turn.Keeps the pads from riding on the rotor so much.Ford brakes..man they are bad.
It takes me 15 minutes a wheel.You need a 10mm or it might be an 11 or 13 box end wrench a big c clamp and strong flat pc of steel.Lay the steel across both pistons, crank all the way in. your done.Watch that spring it will pop of place real easy.Oh and put the caliper on a 5 gallon bucket,and free the small wire by taking out of those 2 little cable holders.That way you dont need to un hook the batt.Un hooking the sensor can on occasion blow an air bag.
Its real easy...good luck ...1 last thing it really helps if you pull the master cylinder away from the booster(you dont need to un hook brake lines)And turn the the small piston in a 1/4 turn.Keeps the pads from riding on the rotor so much.Ford brakes..man they are bad.
Last edited by 7 lug f150; 11-21-2009 at 05:07 PM. Reason: wrench
#4
When u take off the tire u will notice that the front pad has a piece on metal going across and hooks onto the caliper. You can push in and down and that may get it or take a screwdriver and pry it down. That was a new one on me when i done my brakes. It's pretty simple u should have rotors all the way around, so u dont have to worry with springs like on a drum. And get a good ceramic pad, you'll be glad u did. Although i got the advance auto brand, but i have no dust on my wheels
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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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