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Anyone know the lengths of cable needed for all of the cables on a 1985 f350 with 6.9 diesel? I was also wondering about this. My batteries have oth the top post and the side post. Could I make a lead that went from the + side top post of both batteries and then use a separate cable from the side post + on the drivers side battery down to the starter? What terminals are needed from napa to make my own? I can get 2/0 welding lead free. Can I use the 2/0 for all of the wires?
I would use the top posts, side posts seem to have to many problems.
My wife had a Buick with side posts, and nothing but trouble after they get some age on them.
A bunch of the 7.3 motors had 2/0 cable for the entire cable.
My 86 had 3/0 from the starter to the passenger side battery, 2/0 from there to the drivers side battery and 2/0 for both of the ground leads to the engine block.
If I remember right, the ground cables attach to a 1/2" bolt on the block.
And the starter cable ends on a 3/8" stud on the lower solenoid.
You can see the wire from the passenger side positive to the glow plug relay/starter relay/alternator output junction, 5/16" studs if I remember right as well.
Well I think I have the starting problem corrected. I had new ground cables made up and the engine is crankibg over faster than ever before and it starting like it should. The positive cable looks good with no corrosion. I will see how it holds up and go from there.
check this out. They give you the lengths. 115" pos
http://www.batteriesareus.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=45&zenid=6d190ca45 cfddeabd0583595d4e30c9b
Dont discount getting them through the stealership. It was a few years ago now but it was more or less the same money for me to get them made up, or buy it from ford. The ford cable also has the bolt clamp and the solenoid wire attached.
I just bought a new positive cable set up for my 90 model at Oriely's. It's a 2/0 cable all the way from left battery to right to starter complete with new plastic covers for 75 bucks. Looks like a good quality cable. That and a new mitsubishi starter installed and it spins over faster than it ever has.
I just bought 10 mts of quailty 3/0 cable and all the respective lugs etc and tomorrow I am going to my dads to make some new leads. 3/0 all the way earths and all. Got some good heavy alligator clamps aswell so will use the left over cable to make a decent set of jumper leads also. Will try to post some pics tomorrow.
I just bought 10 mts of quailty 3/0 cable and all the respective lugs etc and tomorrow I am going to my dads to make some new leads. 3/0 all the way earths and all. Got some good heavy alligator clamps aswell so will use the left over cable to make a decent set of jumper leads also. Will try to post some pics tomorrow.
i just did mine that same way and it worked good, i used some shrink rap over the lugs to wire. i also hooked up a set of jumper cables that have a plug in the grill like ya see alot on tow trucks here. and it kinda strange hearing ya talk about earths instead of grounds, i had a college prof who was orig from aus and he still talked like that. and he was hell bent on the metric system lol
Just an update. It is 30 degrees here in Ohio today and I went out and tried to start the beast. I let the glow plugs cycle a few times and she started up and quit. I let them cycle 2 more times and she fired right. I have been chasing this hard start problem for 2 years and finally decided to check the cables. My truck still has a direct drive starter on it and from what I am told the gear redusction starter will spin it over even faster. I am satified with how it is starting right now and I will finally move towards putting it on the road once I get the interior done and figure out which drag link I need to buy or replace the entire front end. For anyone who is having slow crank problems and have tried everything except the cables I would highly recommend that you change them out. It was a night and day difference on my truck. Thank to all of those who helped me.