im only on the second injector so far the first came out somewhat easy but had no copper washer on the end or in the hole and was covered in a diesel oil mix almost? smelled nasty..

the second was a little harder to turn out and when i pulled it out the injector was covered in carbon? and in the hole it was so built up with carbon it was covering the threads ! im going to scrape it all lose when i get the shop vac out looks like alot of it may have fallen in the hole tho so i hope it all comes out... if there was a bigger chunk of carbon that would not come back out the hole am i at a real risk of hurting that cylender?

anyway i started on the 3rd and its stuck! i had a breaker bar on it to turn it it moves but very slow but i dont want to break it off so ill just soak everything with wd-40 tonight and see what happens

anyway what should my injectors look like when i pull them out i have no history on them but my truck smokes out the nabourhood when i start it the first one did not shock me as i have read if there wet then its shot but with the carbon building up where i did not think it would im not sure if something else is wrong here? thanx for any and all info guys my trucks ripped apart from front to back right now and nothing seems to be giving me a good time ...

 

Soak them all before you pull them out. The #8 injector in front of the driver tends to get wet and rust the case. Some have reported that this one has broken off at the threads. The copper washer should be in there, look really good. I would imagine if the washer is working correctly, you shouldn't have any carbon on the upper portion of the injector. The oil is probably from the injector leaking at the body threads (injectors are multi-part units that are screwed together). Once you clean the head out good, you can always crank it over to attempt to blow out any debris that may have fallen in the chamber. If a small some carbon/debris falls in the Chamber it should not hurt it.

 

if the injector is working correct there will be carbon on the tip, if there wasnt any washer or the washer wasnt working right it wouldnt seal to the head and would have carbon all over the injector body, if the injector is a leaker it will be wet as describing, and that means bad injector.

When i changed injectors i had alot of trouble getting the old ones out, soak them real good with wd40 or pb blaster, and slowly work them back and fourth but try not to force them too hard cause the last thing you want to do is break one, i had 2 in particular that took me about 30 minutes a piece to get out cause they were so stuck in the head just be paitient and dont rush things,

When putting the new injectors in be very clean about your work clean is the key! putting the o rings on is a little tricky at first then you get the hang of it, have vaseline/petrolem jelly handy, lube the o rings good slip the top one on then roll the bottom one over the top one lube the return caps with petrolem jelly too makes life alot easier and push them down till you hear the nice loud snap it makes when it seats, it pretty straight forward job, just takes paitience and cleaness

 

Shop vac and a copper fitting brush will help you clean out the injector bores.

The WD 40 or PB Blaster will help you get the injectors out, but may make it hard to see which ones were leaking.

Since you are using liquids on the engine with the injectors loose, and then cleaning the injector bores, I would vacuum out everything you can. (small tube or big drinking straw used with the shop vac crevice tool can help clean out the precombustion chamber)

Then with all of the injectors out, crank the engine over several revolutions to blow out any fluids or chunks that the vac did not get.

Look in the injector bore for a copper color, which may mean the copper washer is still in the bore.

 

yes make sure you get the old copper washers out cause if you dont the injector will not seal off to the head and you can ruin a brand new injector that way, and out of curiosity were did you get your injectors and return line kit and how much did you have to pay for them? cause there is a guy on another site that i bought mine from and he gives a heck of a deal on brand new injectors not remans, and he even pop test them before they leave and will pop test them 5000 miles later to make sure all is still good and if not he will fix them

 

well i have dug and picked at the bottom of 2 of the ones i have taken out now and there where no copper washers ..... so i went a head and installed them with washers now i just have the passenger side to do... hope im not messing anything up

and dyoung14 i paid 167 for the injectors but i had to pay shipping of 25 dollars twice because the first set was messed up but they where called diesel care and performance

im still unsure why so far 2 of the injectors where packed with carbon even into the threads must not have been down all the way? ....

 

thats why the were so cheap! if you can get your money back you should! On oilburners in the hall of shame there is so many bad stories on that company, and you will likely have trouble with them, there junk man, if at all possible get your money back if you cant then pray dearly, there is a guy on oil burners who sells injectors and give i think the best deal possible, you can get a hole set of brand new Delphi BB code injectors not remans, and a return line kit for under 300 dollars shipped to your door, and he pop test them before they leave to make sure they all pop the same, and at 5000 miles you can pull them out and pay shipping both ways and he will re pop test them and fix anything that wrong with them free of charge, its were i got my injectors from and i havent had any trouble at all.

 

If the copper washers were missing on the two with carbon on the threads that would be the reason.

 

Ha ha ya I would have figured that but of the 4 I have pulled out 2 where "leakers" and 2 where packed with carbon but one leaker had no washer and one with carbon one had no washer and same goes for having washers one was still full of carbon but had the washer and one wasn't

 

About the only other thing that would let carbon up to the threads would be the injectors were not seated for what ever reason when they were last installed.

Something like carbon in the threads, so the injectors reached torque values before the copper washers were making a good seal, so it had a compression leak.

 

So 2 questions here. What is the best source/type of injectors to buy? Also, with all of the injectors out, how do I turn over the engine? Just crank it with the key or...?

My ride is a 91 E350 with the 7.3.

 

I'd just bump the starter, or get a big bar on the nut at the front of the engine.

 

I would say that your best bet would to buy brand new ones so you don't have to worry about down time if the re builds are no good like my first set was and yes you can turn the moter over with the key to blow the stuff out. Looks like I have to pull mine back out to see if the ones I torqued made a seal ... Lame o well nothing has been easy on this truck for me every time I fix something I find 10 more things that should be fixed i still won't burn it tho its a love hate with my truck haha

 

unplug your FSS when you bump the starter, or you may end up with diesel all over the top of your engine.