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GlowShift Gauges.....

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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 11:01 PM
  #31  
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TERSEJR
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From: CO.
Yes I have stock AD injectors and I'd say the lag is normal for a 7.3 stock tuned from what I can remember. This is also coming from a guy that drives a mildly tuned 07 5.9 6spd Cummins that stock boosts to 30psi... but I believe the lag on this 7.3 is normal to slightly delayed from the bigger turbo.... yes. I also think the red lower turbo boots need replaced so I am holding off on my final boost opinion till a little later when they get replaced. I did buy a Tony Wildman 6 pos chip for this truck and ecu code so that should help alot.

As far as that brass restrictor (as I'll call it) did you remove both on them... at the T fitting and the gauge, or just one? I thought about removing them and testing but got distracted with the ball joints and tie rods having to be replaced.

I Googled these gauges and came up with alot of good feed back from "tuner" forums and yet got some negative feed back from the diesel forums... go figure. I wondered since the diesel motors boost so much higher and such that there was a difference in the gauges for the cars to the diesel crowd, but haven't seen anything one way or the other. I do know that when these gauges first came out I emailed them if they had a boost gauge to read to atleast 30psi (Cummins) and exhaust temp gauge that would read past 1200* and they said "not at this time" and then after I found this 02 7.3 seen that they now have gauges for a diesel style application and said what the heck I'll try them.

Also FYI I removed my stock pillar and used the supplied pillar "cover" as the pillar and it is alot easier to run all the wires and boost line. Just had to drill a hole in the metal under the stock pillar post and use a screw to hold the gauge pod pillar up.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #32  
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zack7.3
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I also have had these gauges with no problems in the past two years. My buddy just bought a set that we will be installing this weekend. I also read some bad things about these gauges after I installed them and it got me worried, but I like them and would recommend them to anyone.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 10:41 AM
  #33  
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frdf250
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Originally Posted by TERSEJR
As far as that brass restrictor (as I'll call it) did you remove both on them... at the T fitting and the gauge, or just one? I thought about removing them and testing but got distracted with the ball joints and tie rods having to be replaced.
there should only be one. it should be fairly easy to remove. i used a pin to push it down into the bottom of where the three paths come together, then pushed it out the side.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 12:11 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Philip Berardi
there should only be one. it should be fairly easy to remove. i used a pin to push it down into the bottom of where the three paths come together, then pushed it out the side.

Thats interesting. Why would they put the restrictor in there? So do you think you are getting more accurate boost numbers? My needle almost never budges while cruising unless i'm doin about 70 then it will read about 2 or 3 psi. Thought i had a leak but i can hit well over 20 psi at WOT.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 12:12 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Philip Berardi
there should only be one. it should be fairly easy to remove. i used a pin to push it down into the bottom of where the three paths come together, then pushed it out the side.

Ok thanks. I'll check it out when I get the truck back.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 12:16 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by n20
Thats interesting. Why would they put the restrictor in there? So do you think you are getting more accurate boost numbers? My needle almost never budges while cruising unless i'm doin about 70 then it will read about 2 or 3 psi. Thought i had a leak but i can hit well over 20 psi at WOT.
I just called it a restrictor, don't know what they want to call it. However it maybe there to build pressure in the line... smaller hole = more pressure. Now I had wondered if the gauge was calibrated to the pressure that this restrictor may pressurize too. Just a thought.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 02:09 AM
  #37  
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Just installed a GlowShift EGT gauge per instructions. The back light will not go off when the ignition is off. I've switched the constant and switched power sources and it has no effect. Gauge works great when the truck is running. Anyone know what's going on?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 05:40 AM
  #38  
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Where did you ground to?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:36 AM
  #39  
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Our performance division became a dealer for these recently, the company seems to be very service oriented and emphasize quick shipping and good support. I personally installed the 3 in 1 guage designed for Diesels. works great in a guage bezel 2 pod adapter with it in one and the DP switch in the other.Leaves my 3 bezel pod open for more guages!!!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Visseroth
Where did you ground to?
To the right of the fuse panel where some factory ground points are located.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 09:05 AM
  #41  
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QUOTE]Just installed a GlowShift EGT gauge per instructions. The back light will not go off when the ignition is off. I've switched the constant and switched power sources and it has no effect. Gauge works great when the truck is running. Anyone know what's going on? [/QUOTE]

Where did you hook up your ignition power to? Sounds like you have it hooked to a constant source. Are the back lights still holding color with the ignition offor are they a dull red color?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:36 AM
  #42  
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Visseroth
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Can you take pictures of your connections and post them. It may help us help you.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #43  
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1medic
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Originally Posted by Visseroth
Can you take pictures of your connections and post them. It may help us help you.
I fixed it. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 11:35 AM
  #44  
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what was the problem?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #45  
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1medic
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Originally Posted by Visseroth
what was the problem?
Me being stupid! I thought I had an ignition source and it was a "always on".
 
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