I will look tomorrow and see how big of wrenchs I got. I think have some big ones like that. Will sockets work I have a couple 3/4" drive sets that go up to 2" or bigger I think.

 

i wont be abel to make it but if some one would like to stop over, i can put togeather a ball joint servics kit . press, seal driver,socket and i'm not shure what all is neeadid. it's ben a few year's since i did mine

 

1 5/16" is the size, either a wrench or socket will work. Socket should work once the axle shaft is removed.

 

I have 1-1/4", 1-1/8 and 1-1/2 sockets and wrenches. And lots of smaller stuff. Bunch of cordless and corded tools too, no air tools here.

 

I'm really considering coming. Most of it is contingent on how much remodeling I finish in the next week and a half.

I'd probably drive and have a couple things I'd like to check out on my truck. I've got a leak of something near my power steering fluid pump. Could be oil, could be power steering fluid. I want to investigate it and determine what it is.

There's something up with my wiper fluid system. I bought the truck in California and after driving it back the fluid froze. I thawed things out and put in good fluid. Now the driver's side doesn't spray. This latest development is new as of this morning, so it might sort itself out.

Lastly, I need to rotate my wheels. The rears have about 40% tread and the fronts have 70%. The previous owner must have had a heavy foot and no idea of what rotating wheels did for you. I haven't had a clear spot of pavement to get my truck off the ground since I bought it. I don't have a garage big enough to fit my truck.

Troy, you said you've got 95" and 91" doors? My truck is about 87-88" to the top of the cab.

 

Thanks for the clarification on the wrench size Mike.

No worries Scott. Let us know whenever you can so we can arrange accordingly.

Lee, I will PM you for contact info and arrange to get that stuff from you.

I have an impact but it is kind of worn out and wimpy. If someone has a good one it would be helpful for the balljoints.

 

Ok I looked this morning and I have sockets big enough but so far I cant find a wrench that size, I will keep looking or am I sure I could borrow one. I have a couple 1/2" air impacts and 1/2" cordless impact as well. I should also have a 3/4" air impact. I have quite a few hand tools and sockets also but if anybody wants to bring extra more is always better with a lot of projects going on.

Scott it would be great if you could come but just let us know! Your truck should fit just fine at 88" tall.

 

I will bring my 12k lb rhino ramps in case someone wants there truck a little higher in the air to get under. I am also bringing AE. I won't be crawling on the ground at all but I can help with some of the stuff, gpr light ect. I will also bring the camera since we didn't last time and alot of people cried about that. LOL

 

Jay that super america on weaver lake rd at 630 will work fine.

 

If you need a 1 5/16 wrench, I can get you the one we used for Jay's balljoints. You can also use the topside creeper if needed. I can deliver to either Jay or Tom before the 16th, let me know.

 

Super nice offer Mike. We may need to take you up on that.

Good on the camera Tom. We were to busy shivering to worry about it last time.

I will bring my travel tool box just for extra hand tools.

Edit: Mike how is the tranny?

 

I got a wild hair, and decided to dyno my truck this Friday. There are be more slots available it seemed pretty open on Friday, if anyone is interested. It's at Hi Tech Motorsport in Elk River, $85 for three runs on a dynojet. I made sure that they know I have diesel with a 174" wheelbase and they said no problem. My slot is at 9:00 am, so if any has the day off. It could be a pre-GTG...GTG

 

Funny, I was just looking over a dyno list I have today thinking of running my truck. I'd love to go, but just made plans for Friday.

I'd love to go but just made plans for Friday earlier tonight. Let me know how it goes there, I may make the trek up there next week.

 

Before I made my current appointment, I found a shop with a Mustang Dyno and they are booked until the end of the month, but I had reserved a spot there on the 27th @ 10:00 A.M. I may still dyno there also because the Mustang dyno's put a more realistic load on the vehicle based on weight and "aero" (don't know how they will deal with that). Essentially the mustang is a more complex dyno and they can add resistance to the drum via braking to compensate for the weight of the vehicle.

FWIW I found quite a lot shops that had Dynojets but only a few able to take on diesels. I only found 3 shops that have Mustangs (this was state wide search, from what was listed on the net): One was set up for AWD 2WD but only could handle short wheelbases because it was elevated (they service the little tunner cars), the 2nd one was at Minnesota State University Mankato (my alum). Finally I found one at St. Paul Auto which is where I have the slot for the end of the month.

I found a good write up on a corvette forum. Dynojet VS Mustang This is the LINK post #4.

I also copied it:

Here's how I like to explain the difference. . .

DynoJets are inertia dynos, and have been around for years, much longer than any type of load cell dyno. Inertia dyno's work on the principle of the acceleration of a known mass over time. Their rollers are the known mass. Weighing in at over 2500lbs or so. Your car gets strapped down to the machine, and the dyno collects it's data. It is able to calculate horsepower by measuring the acceleration in rpm of the rollers in regards to RPM. This is why gearing can affect the dyno results, more on that in a bit. Now that the dyno has recorded the horsepower curve, it can take the integral of that curve and get the torque curve. Since the dyno’s power calculations are based on the acceleration of mass over time in regards to RPM, gearing is very important. Since a vehicle with a lower gear ratio can accelerate the mass to a higher speed using less engine RPM, it will show a higher horsepower number than a car with a higher gear ratio. If a car is able to accelerate the dyno’s rollers from 200rpm (roller) to 300rpm (roller)in 1500rpm (engine), then the dyno is going to record more power than a car that did that in 2000rpm (engine).

Now we go to Mustang dyno’s and other loaded dyno’s. Our Mustang MD-1100SE dyno’s rollers weigh 2560lbs. That is the actual mass of the rollers, much like the DynoJet. That’s about where all the similarities end. When we get a car on our dyno, we enter two constants for the dyno’s algorithms. One being the vehicle weight, the other being what’s called “Horsepower At 50mph”. This is a number that represents how much horsepower it takes for the vehicle to push the air to maintain 50mph. This is used as the aerodynamic force. Mustang dyno’s are also equipped with a eddy currant load cell. Think of a magnetic brake from a freight train. This magnetic brake can apply enough resistance to stall a big rig. Off one side of the eddy currant load cell, there is a cantilever with a 5volt reference load sensor (strain gage). As the rollers are spinning this load sensor is measuring the actual torque being applied. So as the rollers spin, the load sensor is measuring the force being applied, sending that information to the dyno computer, taking into account the two constants entered earlier, computing the amount of resistance needed to be applied to the rollers to load the car so that the force of the rollers resistance is as close to the force the car sees on the street. The dyno is then able to calculate the total force being applied to the rollers in torque, and then taking the derivative of that torque curve to arrive at the horsepower curve. Since torque is an actual force of nature, like gravity and electricity, it can be directly measured. Horsepower is an idea that was thought up by man, and cannot be directly measured, only calculated.

I like to state it like this. . . I start by asking how much your car weighs, lets say 3500lbs. Now you take your car and you make a make a WOT rip in your tallest non overdrive gear, how much mass is your engine working against? 3500lbs right? Now you strap your car on a DynoJet and you make a WOT in the same gear, how much mass is your engine working against? 2500lbs right? Now you strap your car on a Mustang dyno, how much mass is your engine working against? 2500lbs. Plus the resistance being applied by the eddy current generator. We’ve seen anywhere for 470lbs of resistance to over 700lbs of resistance as measured in PAU force in the data logs. So which one is more accurate? Well they their both accurate. If a DynoJet dyno says you made 460rwhp, then you made 460rwhp. If a Mustang dyno says you made 460rwhp, you also made 460rwhp. Now which one of those numbers best represents what your car is doing when its on the street. That’s a different question.

The most important thing to remember is that a dyno is a testing tool. If the numbers keep increasing, then you’re doing the right thing. We try to look over at NET gain, instead of Peak HP numbers. A 30rwhp increase is a 30rwhp increase regardless of what dyno it is on.

Now I can address how to calculate the difference between one type of dyno and another. Simply put, you can’t. Because Mustang dyno’s have so many more variables, it’s not a simple percentage difference. We’ve had cars that made 422rwhp on our Dyno, two days later make 458rwhp on a DynoJet the next day. We’ve also had cars that made 550rwhp on our dyno, make 650+rwhp on a DynoJet a few days later at another shops Dyno Day. For instance, my 2002 Z28 with a forged internal LS6 Heads/Cam/Intake, makes 460rwhp on our dyno. I thought that was a little low, since I’ve had cam only LS6 Z06 vettes make 450rwhp. So I overlaid the dyno graphs. Guess what, the PAU force for my car was almost 200lbs more than the C5Z06 that made 450rwhp with cam only. So I entered the weight and horsepower at 50 number for a C5Z06 and did another horsepower rip with my car. The only reason I did that was to compare Apples to Apples. This time my car made 490rwhp, no other changes. Now I don’t go around saying my car made 490rwhp, I say what it actually did with the correct information entered into the computer. It made 460rwhp. Now if I ever get a chance to take it on a DynoJet (which I plan to in the spring), I have no doubts it’ll be over 500rwhp. I know this based on airflow and fuel consumption on the data logs.

But since we’re asked this question constantly we're fairly conservative, and hence tell our customers that the difference is closer to 6-7%, but as you make more power, and the more your car weighs, the difference increases as well. You must remember, Dyno's regardless of the type are tuning tools, and are in no means meant to tell people how fast their car is. Now which one is more "real world" is a totally different question. I like to explain it like this..... If you drive your car in a situation in which you have no mass and you're in a vacuum, so basically if you do intergalactic racing in space, use a DynoJet. If your car sees gravity, and has an aerodynamic coefficient, and you race on a planet called Earth, then use a Mustang Dyno

 

Jason,
Great write up and interesting reading. Maybe we should try to have a gtg at the mustang dyno. I would lke to put mine on the dyno someday soon.