Need some help installing new wheel bearings
#1
Need some help installing new wheel bearings
Hello,
My truck needs new wheel bearings and new rotors, so i decided to tackle the project today. This truck has been fighting me! Its a 1985 Ford F350 6.9L Diesel 4x4 with manual locking hubs. I pulled the hub cap off, and the caliper... the pictures below are as far as I got. It APPEARS as though the ring pictured below needs to be UNSCREWED off with a special tool, but I honestly am not sure. What do I need to do next and how far do I still have to go? Looking to replace ALL the wheel bearings and the rotors.
Thanks,
Dan
My truck needs new wheel bearings and new rotors, so i decided to tackle the project today. This truck has been fighting me! Its a 1985 Ford F350 6.9L Diesel 4x4 with manual locking hubs. I pulled the hub cap off, and the caliper... the pictures below are as far as I got. It APPEARS as though the ring pictured below needs to be UNSCREWED off with a special tool, but I honestly am not sure. What do I need to do next and how far do I still have to go? Looking to replace ALL the wheel bearings and the rotors.
Thanks,
Dan
#2
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
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You need a special tool to remove the nut, IIRC there is another one just like it behind that one with a locking washer between them. There's a small pin in the inner nut that engages the locking washer and the outer one is just a jam nut. Once you get the rotor off you have to remove the wheel studs (drive out w/ a hammer) then separate the rotor from the hub (same hammer technique) put the new rotor on the hub and install your old wheel studs from the rear with hammer/punch, extension or whatever. The studs may not seat perfectly, but when the jobs all done and you tighten down the lug nuts it will pull it all together (make sure you get them tightened down good, maybe even retourque them after a short drive) If your wheel bgs arent bad you can clean/repack them, outherwise you have to drive the old races out of your hub and get the new ones in undamaged (more special tools reccomended)
#3
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bay Area, Unfortunately
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As stated above, you need a special socket to remove the nut. You can probably rent it at a local parts place. As for installing the new races, I take the old ones, grind off a little material around the circumference, and use them (with a drift and piece of metal spanning across the old race) and use that to drive in the new races.
#4
#5
Guys,
Thanks for the tips,
What exactly is this tool called and where can I get it? My local autozone doesn't know the difference between a socket and a wrench.
I bought "everything" required to do the right side... all the races and all the bearings, inner and outer. I've never done this job before on a truck and it seems a little more critical. It was 10X easier on my 71 Chevelle. I can't honestly remember how I put the races in on the Chevelle but I am pretty sure I did not take the rotors anywhere to have them pressed in. Shouldn't I be able to use a copper punch to drive them in?
Dan
Thanks for the tips,
What exactly is this tool called and where can I get it? My local autozone doesn't know the difference between a socket and a wrench.
I bought "everything" required to do the right side... all the races and all the bearings, inner and outer. I've never done this job before on a truck and it seems a little more critical. It was 10X easier on my 71 Chevelle. I can't honestly remember how I put the races in on the Chevelle but I am pretty sure I did not take the rotors anywhere to have them pressed in. Shouldn't I be able to use a copper punch to drive them in?
Dan
#6
#7
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
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copper or brass punch can work, or like stated before, use your old race, but you dont have to grind down the OD, just make sure you place it on top of the new race with the cone shape in the same direction, if you put it in backwards there's no place to drive the old race out if it gets stuck
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#9
Thanks for the tips so far... keep'um comin!!!!!!
Dan
#12
#15
I know the one in the second pic isn't correct for this application, it's just one I could find a
clear picture of on the 'net and add into my posting to help explain. This is why I referred to it
as a variant of the one he needs.
You'll also need to dig out a ring that kinda looks like a piston ring, it's on the outer inside
edge of the casting (looks like you may jave already removed it, though, as I don't see it
there.
I second the recommendation to get a book, the installation sequence is fairly precise and,
IIRC, preloading is part of it. Autozone.com might have some helpful online documentation,
too.
clear picture of on the 'net and add into my posting to help explain. This is why I referred to it
as a variant of the one he needs.
You'll also need to dig out a ring that kinda looks like a piston ring, it's on the outer inside
edge of the casting (looks like you may jave already removed it, though, as I don't see it
there.
I second the recommendation to get a book, the installation sequence is fairly precise and,
IIRC, preloading is part of it. Autozone.com might have some helpful online documentation,
too.