The picks in this might help.I just repacked the bearings when ireplaced the ujointshttps://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/885274-ttb-u-joint-replacement.html.

 

Those are some great pictures.... should help me in the re-installation process! Thanks!

Dan

 

This is beyond the scope of work for the OP's bearing replacement but, if anyone is going this far and contemplating u-joint replacement... FWIW, removing the Spindle is a hell of a lot easier if you buy/rent the spindle puller tool! I counted up 7 spindles that I need(ed) to pull and I went ahead and bought the tool for 25 bucks. Man what a joy, 4 or 5 hits on the slide hammer and it's off

No smoke, no fire, no broken screwdrivers or fingers, nothing! Enjoy...

 

So I got the "special socket" this morning and pulled the hub off. I got the first bearing out... it was shot. Then I pulled apart the hub from the rotor... the bearing is done, but believe it or not, the race is in good shape... so chances are I will just put new bearings in. However, I spent the last 2 hours trying to get the spindle itself off to get to what lies underneath. After 2 hours of heat, pb-blaster, and hammering I still have not gotten it off! Is there anything underneath the spindle that should probably be "checked" for replacement... any more bearings???? If I can help it I rather put the studs back in and just work on the hub and rotor.

Dan

 

Only if you need to service the ball joints or axle u-joint or check the spindle bearing. If you do need to take the spindle off, there are a couple ways. You can rent a spindle puller attachment for use with a slide hammer, you can use a general purpose puller, or you can use an air chisel.

 

Replace the races. If the bearings are bad, the hardening on the races might have started to get worn through. You are this far in. As stated above, unless servicing the ball joints or u-Joints leave the spindle on.

 

Ok, just to be sure I am on the same page I will post some pictures tomorrow, but other than the U-joints (which actually probably could use replacement), and ball joints, there is nothing else under that spindle the needs maintenance... no bearings...

excellet I will post pictures tomorrow morning!!

Dan

 

As I said above, there is a spindle bearing inside the spindle that the axle stub shaft rides on.

 

Dude, not to be rude but you really should get a book! (as noted in post 4 and others throughout this thread). You need to reassemble this stuff correctly, I've done my D44 a few times and my D50 once; I use the book every time...

 

The spindle bearing is in there. It is not under the same kinds of stresses and such, but it sounds like you are intent on replacing them too. How far in are you willing/do you need to go? As stated above, a book will help you with the step by step stuff.

 

I can't for the life of me get this spindle off. I have been hammering on it for 3 days, air hammer, regular hammer, Pb BLASTER. Just got a slide hammer from autozone. They say this is everything I need to do the job. Not quite sure how this is going to work.

Reason I am headed down to the spindle bearings is because I need to replace the U-joints too.




I am going to get a service manual off ebay or amazon, but I need this job done asap and can't really wait until the manual comes in, in two weeks. I did purchase Alldata (AKA SOmedata) as I mentioned before, but it hasn't been particularly helpful.

Dan

 

Looks like you are going to need an adapter to screw onto the end of the spindle to make that hammer work. Have you tried heat?

You might as well do the ball joints since you are that far.

 

You need the end that screws to the spindle to work with the slide hammer.I just used a pulled on mine.what is this spindle bearing?did the ttb have them?mine doesen't.the axle is centered via the locking hub assembly,and other Dana 44/60 I have worked on have had bearings in the spindle.

 

Dan, I've done this job a few times. How hard are you hitting it? I ask because sometimes you have to really wack it. I use a wooden block and heavy hammer as close to the mateing surface as possible. If that don't work try using some heat. take a tourch and heat the spindle up, (just were you removed the bolts) the spindle tends to rust solid to it's mateing surface. when you do get it off, put some anti-siez on the back side of the spindle flange. this will help prevent it from sticking next time. good luck. I know it has been said before but get yourself a book. it's like a cheat sheet for all your problems. takecare.

 

Thats the wrong tool, you need a spindle puller that attaches directly to the spindle