Finally got the motor to rumble to life and let it run to temp. Can smell a little oil burning and hear a valve leaking when I run up the rpm along with thump noise in a cylinder.

Symptoms:
-when I run the rpms up it sounds like a repeated shot of air from a compressor hose but then it gets quieter and goes away in a couple seconds like the valve is seating properly again

-the oil gauge isn't moving as in no pressure

Questions:
-is the valve causing the cylinder to misfire or poor compression causing thecylinder noise or do I have bigger worries? The motor runs right up with no hesitation. I just don't want to run it again without checking here for some advice first.

-can I change the oil with an additive that might clear this problem up? Also what would be a good choice for type and weight? I live in MT where is gets cold.

-I got some diesel kleen, is there something else I should be adding to the fuel system as in ATF or 2 stroke oil?

What else should be on my shopping list?

 

run about a bottle of lucas oil treatment in the oil and a can or two of seafoam in the fuel tank and run it and see if it clears up

 

alright i'm off to get some oil and will get some lucas treatment and sea foam I will post a video of the sound I was talking about after it finishes processing..it seems after leaving it sit last night that the whoosh is no longer there already I haven't been able to recreate it today. Don't laugh but is this diesel ping? I've never just sat and listened under the hood of a diesel and with this thing being brought back from the dead just don't know what it should sound like.

 

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Hopefully that works...so is this normal sounding? Hopefully you can pick out what I'm talking about.

 

sounds good to me.
you have to remember that with the intake open like that, you will hear things you should not hear with the air filter on.

 

That is a good sounding motor.

All the way at the rear of the intake manifold almost center is the oil pressure sending unit.
Single wire on the top.

Try unhooking the wire then replacing it.

IDI diesels don't usually carry much oil pressure at idle.

A good dose of Diesel Kleen in the tank and drive it will clean the fuel system up.
With the truck sitting for a while, I would double dose both tanks.

 

I've always had a good feeling about this truck that's really great to hear. Had it running most of the day in between parts runs and such and it hasn't missed a lick or given me any problems. Oil pressure is none at idle but it does come up with the rpms so good. Guy at the parts store told me the lucas treatment would thicken the oil and the pressure will stay higher. Will have to check that out tomorrow while I'm replacing the steering column.

I don't think there's gas in the back tank as I couldn't hear anything slosh when I shook the truck around good and the gas gauge doesn't seem to be working even though I've put 10 gal of fuel in the front tank. There was something I read about an issue where something inside the tank breaks off and will cause the gauge to read empty until about half a tank. Can someone direct me to the fix for that? There is a fuel shut off valve right inside the drivers door on the floor board that looks like could have been installed by someone....I wonder what that's all about...will have to look into it further. Maybe the back tank isn't even hooked up or bypassed...wouldn't surprise me at this point! All good to knows before this thing goes on the road

 

What happens is there is an extension, plastic, that breaks off over time.

When that happens you run out of fuel with 8 or 10 gallons of fuel still in the tank.

The fix is drop the tank, and put an extension on the pick up tube.

As for the floor mounted fuel shut off, wonder if there was a bed mounted fuel tank installed at some point in time?

 

That's the opposite of what's happening but I'll remember that should it happen. So what's a logical explanation of the fuel gauge not working? I will check the book on it tomorrow and troubleshoot a little bit. The factory bed is still on the truck..I remember 3 lines on the valve come to think of it...one goign to the front and two chasing off to the back...possibly one to each tank bypassing the fuel selector switch hmm...maybe I just answered my own question. Is the gas gauge associated with the tank switch somehow?

 

nm I see in the fuel tank selector valve thread there is a wire going to the gauge that's got to be what's going on. Where on the truck was the original selector valve mounted at? If it was on the drivers side on the rail then my guess is mine is missing....

 

its right in front of the front tank and its in there really close on the frame rail.i wish you were within a couple hours of me i would drive over and help you out.your just a tad too far

 

The frame mounted tank selector valve has two wires that switch the valve position, three wires that switch fuel gauge to the selected tank.

You floor mounted selector valve has to have 6 lines.
Supply and return to the motor.
Supply and return to the front tank.
Supply and return to the rear tank.


But at the same time, both the front and rear tanks are unbaffled tanks.
So over time the fuel gauge sending units get a lot of movement from the fuel sloshing and do wear out.

 

As I suspected the tank select valve is no where to be found. While underneath changing the rear U-joint this morning I followed the plumbing and it's heading back to the tanks. One thing I have a question about is there is a unit on the frame rail that I would guess to be a water separator that is totally bypassed in this whole plumbing fiasco. Looks like a fuel filter and has a bleeder valve on the bottom. Now the one that is supposedly supposed to be on the driver's fender is missing too. This seems a little worrisome to me. These trucks have 2 separators? And both are taken out of mine. I'm not opposed to leaving the fuel valve in place but I need a working gas gauge for sure. What wires operate the gauge? I should be able to wire it up to work shouldn't I even with no selector valve? This is something I'll have to spend some time on and see how things are laid out. It might be easier just to replace the valve back to how it should be and re-plumb (i don't like that word..lol) the fuel lines back through the separator...this all providing that the harness in still there and usable.

 

One seperator and one filter.

The filter is mounted on the passenger side front of the engine, right behind the alternator.

The water seperator was in the corner of the engine compartment to the right of the brake booster looking from the front.

I saw the brake booster and cruise control actuator in you video, but you never quite made it over far enough to see if the water seperator was still there.

I just noticed the passenger side wiring .....looks like fun.

 

Check

Supposed to be hooked to this harness?




It was cobbled up pretty good but I managed to straighten most of it out. I have a mystery blue wire on the passenger fender that has a factory spade made for a connection harness but it looks like it has come out of the harness (which is missing). Also another black connector passenger fender, one spade connection, two wires one large black comign from the main harness, one small black pigtailed on inside the back of the connector. Currently have the small one grounding the GPR. See attached visual aid.