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Broken water pump stud

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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:07 AM
  #1  
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From: Kingwood, Texas
Broken water pump stud

I need some advice. I just broke the head off of the stud that the power steering and A/C compressor bracket slide on to while changing the water pump out on my 96 302. It has about two inches of smooth stud sticking out of the block. I would like to get your advice before I mangle whats left trying to get it out. I'm thinking that I need to tap/die the stud and use two nuts to try to get it out??? Looks like the P/O's mechanic used extra lock-tite on the bolts. I'm surprised this was the only one that broke! Anyway, any help will be appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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if there's enough sticking out just get a pair of vise grips and lock em on the bolt and un screw it.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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Add some heat while you're at it.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 03:09 PM
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Try spraying it with penetrating oil. Spray it again and again and again. The garage my friend used sprayed it and let it soak for a day or two.
The vise grips are a good idea but not until some soaking. If you can, spray it and let it stay like that overnight. Try not to break off the stud that is sticking out by twisting and getting mad with it. Given the location of the pump you are not going to be able to drill out the studs without taking out the radiator and grill.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 11:17 AM
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This thing is driving me crazy! I threaded the stud so I could use two nuts to try to get it out and it keeps ripping the threads from inside the nuts. I went to Sears thinking they would have higher quality nuts and they did the same. I was able to crack the timing chain cover just enough to get at the point where the stud goes into the block and hit it with penetrating lube. Let it sit over night and put the propane torch to it and still wouldn't budge. Does anyone know where I can get better quality nuts that wont have the threads rip out of them? I don't want to go at it with vise-grips just yet and I don't want to cut the stud at the block and drill it out if I don't have to. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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From: Ft. Worth, Texas
Originally Posted by kaduh
This thing is driving me crazy! I threaded the stud so I could use two nuts to try to get it out and it keeps ripping the threads from inside the nuts. I went to Sears thinking they would have higher quality nuts and they did the same. I was able to crack the timing chain cover just enough to get at the point where the stud goes into the block and hit it with penetrating lube. Let it sit over night and put the propane torch to it and still wouldn't budge. Does anyone know where I can get better quality nuts that wont have the threads rip out of them? I don't want to go at it with vise-grips just yet and I don't want to cut the stud at the block and drill it out if I don't have to. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
My advice would be to be patient, and give the penetrating oil time.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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if th p/o used loctight on it oil wont really help you just need heat. dont heat the bolt as that will cause the bolt to expand in the block and make it harder to get out. propane isnt very hot either. try mapp gas, oxy acetylene would be idle, heat the blcok around the base of the bolt, heat is what breaks down loctight.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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Water pump woes

If it's the stud that has the 5/8 nut on it, I just went through that yesterday on my 91 5.0.... I took all of the other bolts out & that was the last one holding the pump. I tried tapping on the wrench after soaking it with PB, it wouldn't budge, I tried to tighten it & loosen it by tapping the wrench both directions, finally I put a cheater bar on it & sure enough, it snapped off right flush with the pump. So then I thought the pump would come off but the bolt was froze in the pump itself, the pump would turn just so much on the bolt but still wouldn't slide off the stud so then I got my dremel out & had to cut through the bolt eyelet of the pump & whacked it with a chisel, the pump fell off & I put the vise grips on the stud & it screwed right out too?? Just had to replace the stud bolt. So if you can get vise grips on it, that would be your best bet. ...Just my 2¢.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Bear1_301
If it's the stud that has the 5/8 nut on it, I just went through that yesterday on my 91 5.0.... I took all of the other bolts out & that was the last one holding the pump. I tried tapping on the wrench after soaking it with PB, it wouldn't budge, I tried to tighten it & loosen it by tapping the wrench both directions, finally I put a cheater bar on it & sure enough, it snapped off right flush with the pump. So then I thought the pump would come off but the bolt was froze in the pump itself, the pump would turn just so much on the bolt but still wouldn't slide off the stud so then I got my dremel out & had to cut through the bolt eyelet of the pump & whacked it with a chisel, the pump fell off & I put the vise grips on the stud & it screwed right out too?? Just had to replace the stud bolt. So if you can get vise grips on it, that would be your best bet. ...Just my 2¢.
I'd say that corrosion around that stud, and the fact the pump housing was probably aluminum is what caused your issue here. Aluminum is very gritty and will grab steel parts if they are close to the walls of a hole and hold on for dear life.


Use a torch and vicegrips, but don't heat the block til it's red...youll change the cast iron on a molecular level and make it harder and brittle. Just rock the stud back and forth, little by little, and it should come out with a little heat.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jplinville
I'd say that corrosion around that stud, and the fact the pump housing was probably aluminum is what caused your issue here. Aluminum is very gritty and will grab steel parts if they are close to the walls of a hole and hold on for dear life.


Use a torch and vicegrips, but don't heat the block til it's red...youll change the cast iron on a molecular level and make it harder and brittle. Just rock the stud back and forth, little by little, and it should come out with a little heat.

I was thinking the same thing when I put the propane torch to it. I just wanted to get it hot enougn to try and burn the lock-tite. I have decided to hit it with penetrating lube every morning and go at it this weekend. I bought Liquid Wrench brand penetrating lube. I have never used it, so I don't know if it good or not. I'll keep you posted.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:34 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by kaduh
I was thinking the same thing when I put the propane torch to it. I just wanted to get it hot enougn to try and burn the lock-tite. I have decided to hit it with penetrating lube every morning and go at it this weekend. I bought Liquid Wrench brand penetrating lube. I have never used it, so I don't know if it good or not. I'll keep you posted.
LW is good, but PB Blaster is better. You can find it at the 'Zone for a few bucks a can.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 04:08 PM
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Update: Lubed it yesterday morning and this morning and got some grade 8 nuts from the local Fastenall Distributor and it eased right out. i can finally put the water pump on.
 
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