Hey guys, up here in the great white north the calcium chloride they put on the roads just kills our vehicles.Any suggestions or comments on this topic would be great.Ziebart wants $300 to rust proof and sound barrier on bottom floor panels,suppose to really reduce the road noise.Anyways comments or suggestions are great.Thanks.

 

Have an 03 and just replaced rear dif. cover and need to replace front because of rust. The oil pans like to rust out also. You never think about those things till they leak. I'll keep them cleaned and painted now, should have before.

 

Biggest help is to wash off salt the moment they stop using salt for the season.

Then systematically repaint / re-rust proof / coat rusted areas IMMEDIATELY.

No place where paint is chipped off should be left --- or that is the start of future rust.

Then, if you want to get esoteric, there are special coatings, and also zinc / aluminum anodes you can do.

Put up some pics to see how bad the rust is... and lets see.

Don't waste time with any "rustproofing" that is not annually renewed or redone.

 

So I guess oil spray instead.I got no pics of rust problems with my truck this is the first winter it will be exposed to.The truck came from down south.Oil spray is only 100 bucks,but fords are famous for the body rotting out,especially the bottom lip of the tailgate.I plan on keeping the truck for awhile so want te keep it nice.Thanks

 

I have gotten my truck oil sprayed at Krown every year since new no rust the brake lines still look new. I have been told that if you get it done and your truck has some rust that it will slow down significantly.

 

I've never heard of this oil spray procedure. It sounds like something I'd like to have done. Can any one give me some more information on it? Also, where it can be found. Thanks, John

 

Oil spray has been around since the 60's.Ziebart International :: Welcome to Ziebart.com i think.It does work very well my brother has an 89 crown vic with no rust.Always winter driven.There is two procedures.Oil spray which is done everyear,and rust proof which is done every 3 0r 4 years.This might only be available in the midwest area due to the winter season and eastern states.But ziebart site shows all locations.When I get mine done I will show some pics.It really makes the underbody and the frame of the truck look nice and stays that way.Like the other guy mentions his brake lines look new still.I never oil sprayed my first truck and the brake lines had to be replaced at 3years old.And the bottom lip of our tailgates are famous for this also.I can almost bet that almost all the trucks on here up to 07 have rust starting on the inside of the tailgates on the bottom lip.

 

Here is an interesting observation.

Working on my 2005 E 350, there are boxed sections on either side of the rear wheel which appear NOT to have proper drainage.

I removed what must be fist fulls of dirt from there (and there is evidence of moisture rusting out the panel from inside.

It is far too difficult to fix that --- so what I decided to do to lengthen life is as follows:

I am going to clean it as much as possible (vacuum) before I close off the section with a heavy plastic vapor barrier to additional air infiltration.

Then, use a fairly viscous oil or grease to coat the inside (literally leaving it to slosh around) hoping that the oil will deter rust.

Ditto for doors, etc.

In the case of the rear cargo door, the rusting is so advanced that this will only slow it down --- with the final solution is door replacement.

Elsewhere where I have rust on the body, I am using phosporic acid to seal it after wirebrushing, put some white paint on it for appearance only, and then see what it looks like in spring.

For real serious rust control, snazzy tricks like paint with sacrificial anode materials, etc. is needed.

Passivation coatings only work so far.

 

I had my 1990 f-250 rust prof coated by z-bart and rusted out completely 4 years later with holes in the frame body mounts rotted out cross member gone body rusting. i will never get rust proof coating put on any of my vehicles again

 

Has any one had a good experience with the full Ziebart rustproofing procedure? They want 700 dollars to steam clean, scrape any existing rust, apply a rust inhibitor, and then spray on their product' including doors, tailgate, box beams, and fenders. They say it takes 4 days, and I can't decide if it's worth the time and money. Thanks, John

 

they only want 450.00 in ontario canada.Thats sound barrier on bottom of truck.Treat all leather interior rust proof and high speed polish exterior takes 5 hours.My buddy just had his all done and it looks excellent.The fellow that said he had 90 f150 done and it rotted out must had somebody apply it incorrectly or the truck was already rusting out.The price they have quoted you is way to high.They also spray the tailgate the door panels and rockers.all the frame and brake lines also.Good luck.

 

Krown rustproofing is in Ontario Canada and guarantees it on new vehicules againstrust or will pay for repairs

 

Ya ive seen them here in Windsor somewhere i might have to look in to them also.

 

Just FYI, any rust out guarantee is only good if you get it reapplied every year. Miss one year, and it's void.

RustCheck is also good stuff, actually i like it better than Krown. They have two types, the red "Inner Panel Protectant", and the amber "Coat and Protect" that's meant for the frame, undercarriage, etc.

I just started using fluidfilm this year. So far i'm happy with it, and it's very comparable to the rustcheck, and at least 1/2 the price. I spray it on myself with an air compressor and a shutz gun. Helps a lot, definitely better than doing nothing, and wondering why your panels rot out after 10 years. I typically use a gallon on a vehicle, inside the panels, and underbody, etc.

 

ive seen the stuff you're talking about a Canadian tire.