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I am a bit worried about installing this intake manifold because the gasket is just metal and is supposedly installed dry except for around the coolant ports. I however decided to buy some spray on copper gasket maker just in case but do not want to use it if the copper will not help. What is the best way to ensure I don't get any vacuum leaks?
There are no coolant passages on a 351M so you lucked out there. I always run Fel Pro #1240 intake gaskets they are the normal kind no the turkey pan, they are also cheaper. Use a bead of silicone instead of the rubber end seals.
-Johnboy
I've always heard you should use the valley pan instead. I have installed intakes on a few 351m/400 engines before, they don't really give any problems with installation. I would however throw out the s shaped rubber seals that go on the ends and use just RTV.
I read in a ford engine rebuild book that the water ports on the ends should have RTV to seal off any water leaks. They are small holes about .500" in diameter that allow water to flow between the heads at the front of the engine. The ones at the back of the engine get capped off by the intake. I put a light circle of RTV around the water cross overs and sprayed the pan with copper gasket maker on both sides. It seemed to work well. I didn't notice any irregularities in the installation. I torqued the 12 bolts in sequence starting with 10 ftlbs - 15 - 25. As far as I can see the gap between the intake and heads is even all the way around.
The top three pics are of a 335 series (351C/M and 400) the rest of are of a 385 series (429/460) two complete different engine familys. It is easy to tell the 335s thermostat bolts to the block and the 385s goes on the intake so one less big hole in the block up front.
-Johnboy