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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Napa is jacking me!!!

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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 11:41 PM
  #1  
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cline9394
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5th Wheeling
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Cool Napa is jacking me!!!

Hey all,
I am trying to replace the front wheel bearings, seals and manual hubs on my 1995 F-150.
The problem is Napa is the only parts store in my town and they are trying to sell me the wrong freaking parts!!!
Finally asked for a "torrington" bearing and got the "spindle needle bearing", (you would think..."I need the spindle needle bearing" would have worked. Then I get to the seals and they want to sell me 3 hub grease seals!!!!! WTF!!!!
As if getting the freaking spindle off, and then the bearing out of that wasn't hard enuf!!!
Now I try to look up an RDS seal on-line and can't find it there either....
I must not know what to ask, could someone help me out???
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 12:09 AM
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gearhead351
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Ask for a diagram of your setup, and point to the piece you need. Or print one out and show them.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 12:32 AM
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I have a diagram...I am showing him.....http://<a href="http://www.supermoto...up.jpg" /></a>


My diagram shows #2 Rolling Diaphragm Seal axle 3C132
#3 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing seal 3299
#6 Outer Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal 3254
#7 Wheel Hub Grease Seal 1190 Napa part #24917
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 12:35 AM
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Also my truck didn't have an outer spindle rolling diaphrgm seal....when I took it apart, the bearings were timken so am assuming they have been changed...Is one suppose to be there?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 06:32 PM
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Put it back together without changing a couple seals....been down almost 2 weeks now.
I did get the spindle out thanks to some old posts here letting me know it was alright to use a BFH.....and got the spindle bearing out fairly quickly agains with someones old answer advising using a dremel tool. Last but not least had to modify the c-ring with the grinder for the new hubs to sit back enuf for the lock ring to seat, that was an old post advice as well, it was bout an 1/8 inch to thick for the new mile markers to seat.
Someone should put a tech thread on the complete teardown of the front axle and the probs you'll probably run into with some hints to solve em. Thanks everyone for your help!
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 07:17 PM
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Oh man, I wish you had posted this last week. I was going through much of the same stuff with my F250. We may have been able to help each other out. I've got mine all back together finally, but it really took some doing and Napa was very little help. That is unless you count giving a guy the wrong parts as help.

I finally had to order most of what I needed on the internet, including the 449SS Mile Markers. The Warn standard hubs that Napa had on the shelf were junk as well AND they were $30 more than the MMs. Luckily I only needed to replace one of the bearings/races and all the rest were OK, but the grease seals were a pain to come by and the hubs too.

I had the same trouble with the lock ring for the hubs. I finally ended up "convincing" the ring to go in there with the end of a screwdriver and a hammer. The whole time I was thinking, "I just waited a week for these hubs to finally come in and now I'm dorking them up, oh man."

Truck sat for almost three weeks waiting on all this to come together and the wife was no help either. Kept messing with me asking me when I was going to get my truck running again. She hates my truck.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 05:58 PM
  #7  
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communication

Well guess what.....got a reply back from mile marker and the problem is that you take the c-clip off----put the new hub in---put the snap ring supplied with the new hubs on the end of the shaft, in the other groove. Voila!!! took mine apart and reintalled per new directions.
Amazing what gets left out of printed instructions!!!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 06:40 AM
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I don't remember there being a snap ring included with my new hubs. Only the big c-retaining clip that holds the whole thing in. What model Mile Markers did you use? Maybe mine is different. By c-clip do you mean the one that is already on the axle stub when you take the whole thing apart? The one that goes on the outside of the splined thrust washer that keeps the axle stub in place?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 08:21 PM
  #9  
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yeah, you remove the c-clip that goes in the groove on the axleshaft after the splined thrust washer, the hub will slide in where it needs to be then you put a snap ring in the groove that is almost at the end of the axleshaft up against the hub. I had to keep pushing the shaft out to put the snap ring on.
Also left out the nylon washer as it was quite thick.
I bought the m.m. supremes. Came with new spring clips, and two 1 1/4" snaprings.
Would've been nice for them to have printed those directions, heh?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 08:28 PM
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LOL, just remembered I had a diagram up :#18 and #16 I removed...slid the lockhub on and put the 1 " 1/4 snap ring on the shaft, then the spring clip went in the groove no problem.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:00 PM
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I just had to take a look at mine this afternoon. It was killing me to think I may have had them in there wrong. Drivers side looked fine. I removed the snap ring from the inside and relocated it to the outside. Super slick, the whole thing went back together like it was made to be that way or something, lol. The passenger side was another story. Behind the hub body was a fine metallic dust mixed with hub grease, almost like a graphite. I thought WTF is this? I then realized that forcing that whole thing together the first time caused the back of the new manual hub center that rides on the axle stub to become jammed against the splined thrust washer and c clip that was supposed to be on the OUTSIDE of the whole thing. It was so tight that when I locked the hubs, it would not turn freely and it ground itself a nice space about the thickness of that c clip on the back side of the new hub body. It did so neat a job that it actually looks like it came from the factory that way. It doesn't look like it's messed up at all, but I guess time will tell. I have a mind to send a nasty note to Mile Marker telling them the guy that writes their instructions needs to go back to "English as a Second Language" classes. Those things are terrible.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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in the image above, #19 - part number 1k105, does anyone know where to get a replacement for that part? I need to replace both sides and cant find that part anywhere.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 07:51 PM
  #13  
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Junkyard would probably be the cheapest, but not much less than buying some new aftermarket hubs. Might be time to invest in a set of those. I would go that route if it were me. Is that a Dana 44 front end? If so, you could get some new Warn Premiums for under $100 I think. That's probably just a little more than you would pay to replace those old OEM hub bodies with junkyard parts. The dealer will want way more than that for new. Mile Marker makes a good set of hubs as well. What's wrong with the old ones, btw?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 08:32 PM
  #14  
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breto33
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the old ones are shot, the PO tried to kill this truck i think. they replaced the auto hubs with manual, but apparently didnt put al the parts back in and pretty much destroyed the hubs. the shop is telling me they need a part inside that 1k105, but ford doesnt carry it anymore, and they are having trouble finding it. I bought a new set of warn manual hubs and the spindle nut kit assuming that would take care of the part they were telling me was missing. i took them in and still am unclear why they need that part, but the mechanic told me there was a washer they needed in that assembly still and they couldn't get it any other way. i am still unsure why they need it but i will see what they say when the part comes in this week hopefully since i have an engine on the way i need to swap out and the sooner i do it in this cold weather the better since i have to do it outside.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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Dancingchicken
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The diagram you have posted wont download for me this time for some reason so I don't have an easy reference to this mysterious washer. The only thing that comes to mind is a splined thrust washer that rides on the stub axle behind the manual hub body. If this is the piece they are talking about you may be getting half the story from the dealer. They did stop making the original washer because it was a poor design. It was replaced with a newly designed washer. It comes in a bag with another un-splined washer and a plastic spacer. I think the kit is about $12 or so for one side. The new design is good and it reduces the metal to metal wear that the old one had problems with. Did you say they were able to order this piece for you?
 
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