brake booster DIY??
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
If you are adding power brakes, or installing a different booster, it is not a simple procedure...at all! It's a royal PITA.
1973/79: There are TWENTY TWO different brake pedals, NINETEEN different P/B boosters and SEVEN different clutch pedals. I kid you not.
Whatever the booster is from, the pedals must match it.
These pedals have ID numbers stamped on them. If the number matches the pedal(s) you have, it's a simple installation.
If the numbers do not match, you have to use the pedals from whatever truck the booster came from.
1973/79: There are TWENTY TWO different brake pedals, NINETEEN different P/B boosters and SEVEN different clutch pedals. I kid you not.
Whatever the booster is from, the pedals must match it.
These pedals have ID numbers stamped on them. If the number matches the pedal(s) you have, it's a simple installation.
If the numbers do not match, you have to use the pedals from whatever truck the booster came from.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 668
Likes: 3
From: NW Kans
i just pulled a booster and master cylinder from a 74 f250 4x2 auto with front disc brakes and bolted it into a 70 f250 4x2 4sp that previously was all manual drum brakes. only had to change one brake line because the nut was the wrong size going into the mc. an adapter probably would have worked too if i had one. four bolts to hold the booster to the firewall and one holding the push rod to the pedal on the inside. everything functions properly.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Sheridan,OR
my brake booster went bad, so i ordered a new one but i dont actually know the procedure to install the new one such as bleeding the master cylinder or something that im over looking. the truck is a 79 F150 4x4 no Cruise control
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 668
Likes: 3
From: NW Kans
if you are just replacing the stock booster it is very simple. seperate the master cylinder from booster. (2 nuts, do not kink lines) four bolts holding booster to firewall. (can remove bracket with booster (four bolts) and seperate on bench or leave brackets on firewall and just remove booster (4 nuts). remove bolt under dash through brake pedal. install in reverse order. no bleeding necessary. if replacing master cylinder also, remove lines from master cylinder. install new master cylinder onto booster. do not hook up lines. new master cylinder should come with adapters, bleeder hoses, and instructions on bench bleeding. after bench bleeding hook up lines and bleed brakes as normal.
New User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Louisa, Virginia
I am running into the same issue. I have a new booster and master cylinder.
However the booster rod needs to be adjusted, it is slightly longer than the old one. This rod is threaded what is the correct way to change its length?
thanks
Baz
However the booster rod needs to be adjusted, it is slightly longer than the old one. This rod is threaded what is the correct way to change its length?
thanks
Baz
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Sheridan,OR
mine will be in tomorrow, right now im fighting a brake bleeder that is rounded off, but do you guys bleed the master cylinder before attaching it to the brake booster?? I could have bought a complete unit but it was 40 bucks cheaper to buy them seperate so i did
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