GPR Shunt
with the shunt you put current across it and you will get a millivolt output, it is in a sense a resistor. there will be a millivolt drop across the material which increases with current so with the differnce in potential the pcm can determine the current in the system. if you were able to find out what the proper mv ranges are you could set it up for the proper output to fool the pcm.
Rog, try new shunt and if that fails to solve the issue give me a call. We can throw a couple diodes in there (center stud to sensing wires ) which will give each side a 0.70 volt drop to try and fool PCM.
http://www.gemstategymnastics.com/at...3%20Diesel.pdf
Jim
The issue is more about using the system with the stancor relay.
Its not a plug and play install.
"We can throw a couple diodes in there (center stud to sensing wires ) which will give each side a 0.70 volt drop to try and fool PCM.
Resistors.
It can be done but you have to access the wiring at another location due to the excessive heat at
the GPR. I would spend my time on a correct install. Its less work.
Bill
The issue is more about using the system with the stancor relay.
Its not a plug and play install.
"We can throw a couple diodes in there (center stud to sensing wires ) which will give each side a 0.70 volt drop to try and fool PCM.
Resistors.
It can be done but you have to access the wiring at another location due to the excessive heat at
the GPR. I would spend my time on a correct install. Its less work.
Bill
Has any had success replacing the GPR shunt with diodes to fool the PCM? I replaced the stock GPR with a larger relay. Fitting the shunt on the new relay is a real PITA. There just isn't enough room. I'm also not thrilled about having a bare piece of metal with 12V on it at all times on top of the engine. Diodes or some kind of voltage divider to provide the 0.7v seems like the ticket.
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pilgrimbizket
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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Feb 8, 2016 07:45 PM





