Hi Guys,

i want to install the Gauges with the original Ammeter. I have read a lot about a "shunt". But there is NO WAY to find this shunt here in Germany. So i have read also something about a cable, that can be used instead of this shunt. But i could not find anywere the right length and cross-section of the cable. Can anyone tell me the exact informations?


best regards
Dirk

 

May I offer an opinion rather than an answer? I think an ammeter is useless - it will tell you your alternator has failed long after you know it. A voltmeter is a much better idea, IMO.
Eric

 

If you can't get one from a marine supply store or an alternator repair shop over there, you can order a shunt from the Blue Seas website, if you really want an ammeter. I agree with 6t6merc, that a voltmeter is far more useful.

 

I want to install the ammeter because it´s original
@GaryKip, thanks.... I did not come up with the idea to go to a marine-shop...tztztzzzz....

 

Just swap the cluster but don't worry about wiring the ammeter. They didn't move and the idiot light was more useful. Also the wiring to the voltage regulator is different between the two gauges.

 

I disagree...an alternator can make voltage without passing any current. It is actually better to monitor the amount of current output by an alternator. But since the entire system depends on the ammeter to be working, it is more dependable to use a voltmeter. The voltmeter can die and not stop the alternator from charging.

 

The ammeter is just a shunted voltmeter that reads the tiny voltage across the shunt. The ammeter can fail and you can still have current passing through the shunt.

I agree with the above: A voltmeter gives you a good deal more information.

 

Thank you for the whole reply, BUT: i want to get my ammeter to run There must be a way to do this, or not Is there a way to calculate the shunt? I changed today to a 3g alternator with 130a.

 

Are you adding a factory ammeter to a cluster that had a light?

 

Hi JEFFFAFA,

i've changed the complete cluster with all 5 gauges.

 

Hotrod, I think you are on the wrong path.

You say you have a 130 amp alternator and you are proposing to use a factory gauge that reads full at 30 amps. Are you not asking for a blowout on a 4x meter overload after startup when the alternator is throwing that kind of current?

If you can find out or figure out what the resistance of the ammeter on the stock dash has, you can parallel the meter with a short length of cable that has about 1/4 of the resistance. There are tables that give you resistance per foot for any type of wire. That way your meter will read 30 amps at 120 amps actual. Mentally multiply by 4. But the setup will give you virtually no information at normal driving with a 10 amp draw, barely deflecting an already insensitive meter.

Why not put on the stock cluster with the ammeter disconnected and put in an under dash voltmeter? That way you have the original decoration and a more useful meter.

You might consider going into the electrical forum with your dilemma. I think the guys here are in over their heads.

 

The idiot light instrument cluster has a different wiring harness than a cluster that has full instrumentation.

Just changing out instrument clusters won't get you there. You'll have to have the appropriate wiring harness too.

 

Lot's of incorrect information in the above posts. An ammeter reads positive current going into the battery (charging) or negative current depleting the battery (discharging). An ammeter is really much more useful than a voltmeter because an alternator failure will show up immediately with an ammeter. Voltage is a product of a battery being charged over time with current (amperage). It will take a while for a charging system issue to be visible by low voltage on a voltmeter.

 

The reason that some ammeters are designed to work with a shunt is so that the meter doesn't have to handle the entire amount of current that the alternator can provide. You guys jacking up your electrical loads and alternator capabilities are asking for trouble with a vehicle that was made to handle 30 to 55 amps maximum. You could get an ammeter that is designed to handle the increased current but you'd need to upgrade your wiring as well.

 

Can you be more specific on the incorrect information in the prior posts?

We are all here to learn.