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A buddy of mine has an '02 Ford Explorer with the V8. The dealership changed the tranny fluid a while back and immmediately after and ever since the transmision has shifted funny. I told him to check the fluid level but it turns out his does not even have a tranny dipstick and instead needs to be checked from the drain underneath. We found the procedure but because he normally doesn't work on vehicles he felt more comfortbale taking it back for them to check the fluid level. They just told him that the level was fine but they think the transmission is going to fail in a month or so.
I have replaced several transmisions on older vehicles and a couple FWD cars so I told him I may be able to replace it for him to save some money. Plus I hate to let the dealer do it, especially since they *might* be part of the reason it is failing. Has anyone done one of these and know if there are any specialty tools or unusual procedures involved?
He says it hesitates between shifting. For example if you shift it from park to drive it will eventually engage (even if you do not press the accelerator) but it will take while. It will also take along time to shift from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd etc. It also does the same thing when shifting from park to reverse.
Any idea if this could be the solenoid pack, or is there any way to confirm or rule that out?
He is not local so it would be great to figure out what we are dealing with before we make travel arrangements to work on it.
I suggest he take it to another shop and have diagnostics run on it. The challege will be to find a shop that is willing to service a component (solenoid, .etc) rather than a trans R&R. Is it possible that it's still under any sort of warranty that he can go back to the dealer with?
pretty poor dealership that would tell you a transmission is failing on a 2002 truck AFTER they worked on it. they probalby did a flush and washed all the loose crap into the valve body. now the spools are sticking. contamination can also cause wear to the bore and make things loose and have leakage and not build up pressure.---- the drain plug in teh transmission is a small (like 1/8 inch pipe) plug in a larger plug that has a 1 inch stand tube on it. you take a weed sprayer and pump oil up thru the small hole and it fills the pan up to the level of the stand tube. you can take the 1/8 inch type plug out and see if fluid runs out. you should only get a spoonfull and then it will stop. problem is you dont know if it is up to the top of the stand tube. when its full, i normally pump in an extra 1/2 quart just to be sure. it always checks full when you remove the plug that way. also it needs MERCON V, not Mercon.
From what I understand if you have over 100k on the tranny and fluid has never been changed you shouldn't change it at that point but instead add a friction modifier to the existing fluid to help with shuddering. Since there is no dip stick it's hard to check if the fluid is brown or smells burnt. Changing the fluid at the mileage when it's original can cause a failure from what I understand. I would use some friction modifier anyway and see if that clears up the shudder after 500-1000 miles. Since the fluid has already been changed you can't go back. Only time will tell.
why would anyone ever recommend NEVER changing the fluid? If it has 100k miles, it is dirty at a minimum. Could also be burnt, and definitly is missing the friction modifiers. Pull the pan and clean out the gunk, new filter, and clean oil. Wipe off or wash any external crud off the valve body and housing. Should be done at 40k, then again at 100k, then again at 160k, but if it was never done, its still not to late.
My brother has a 2002 Explorer with the 4.0L V6, but it has the same tranny as the V8, the 5R55.
He just had the pan dropped, new filter, new fluid. He said the oil was fairly clean, and no debris in the pan bottom.
He does a lot of highway driving, but it does see some slogging through where there are no roads to well sites. He's a geologist and consults on oil and gas well drilling.
His tranny is still working good, so that's good news.
The hesitant shifting sounds like the shift solonoids. They can wear because they are a steel piston in an aluminum bore. They can be fixed by boring out the bore and installing a brass sleeve. Then it will last a real long time.