Oil recommendations
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Oil recommendations
Gonna change HPOP oil this weekend and also wanted some input of lighter weight oil for winter-I have heard of some guys running 5-40. Not sure what 5-40 oils are diesel safe I don't want foamy oil in HPOP. Any sugestions? Also where can I get the lighter oils?
New User
Joined: Aug 2009
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Ive used Rotella 15-40...never had a problem....wierd i thought diesel oil was suppose to be dirtier than reg. oil....i change mine every 3500 miles...not dirty at all....they say to do it at 5000...but i dont like their recommendations lol
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: North East Ohio
Coming from an injector guy, injector wear is 100% related to oil change intervals.
I recommend oil changes at 2500 - 3000 miles, and your injectors will last 400k miles.
If you change oil at 5000 miles like Ford says, they will last 200k miles. I have seen it over and over......
IMO it's more important to change your oil more frequently than to spend more money on 'better' oil (other than synthetics, you can't go wrong there). I switched to cheap Tractor Supply or WalMart brands in a couple of my trucks. Still had clean oil and only ran them for about 3k miles.
I have AMSOIL in my DD now, only have 8k miles on it with no winter time, so I'm anxious to see how it does when cold and for longevity.
One oil change every 2 years is attractive to me, if it works like it should with the bypass filter and oil tests.
I recommend oil changes at 2500 - 3000 miles, and your injectors will last 400k miles.
If you change oil at 5000 miles like Ford says, they will last 200k miles. I have seen it over and over......
IMO it's more important to change your oil more frequently than to spend more money on 'better' oil (other than synthetics, you can't go wrong there). I switched to cheap Tractor Supply or WalMart brands in a couple of my trucks. Still had clean oil and only ran them for about 3k miles.
I have AMSOIL in my DD now, only have 8k miles on it with no winter time, so I'm anxious to see how it does when cold and for longevity.
One oil change every 2 years is attractive to me, if it works like it should with the bypass filter and oil tests.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,608
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From: Belair md
one oil change every 2 years???? that is the kind of thing that scares me. i beleive firmly in the every 3k mark. i get mad if i change mine at 3500 miles. i also beleive that not all oils are the same, but simliar. they all start out at the same place but its all about what each guy puts in the oil. as far as conventional oil i like ford motorcraft first and mobil delvac second with shell rotella 3rd. i saw no difference in performance with rotella to delvac but the delvac smells nicer out of my crankcase vent mod...lol and its typicly 1 dollar per gallon cheaper in my area.
jim, i need to get in contact with you as i am approaching the 300k mark. i want to look into my options for injector rebuilds/upgrades
jim, i need to get in contact with you as i am approaching the 300k mark. i want to look into my options for injector rebuilds/upgrades
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: North East Ohio
It's not unreasonable to get 20k - 30k miles between changes with Synthetic (abotu 2 years for me, I don't really drive much). The key is the bypass filter.
If it's shorter then it's shorter. I know synthetics are good stuff, nothing like dino oil.
If it's shorter then it's shorter. I know synthetics are good stuff, nothing like dino oil.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
I really want to do the Bypass filter setup for my rig.
The initial price is crazy, but so worth it.
I am hitting 5k miles way to easy with my truck.
Last oil change was early with the injectors, and oil is still super black.
This one will be early with the cheep oil, we will see how good it is.
The initial price is crazy, but so worth it.
I am hitting 5k miles way to easy with my truck.
Last oil change was early with the injectors, and oil is still super black.
This one will be early with the cheep oil, we will see how good it is.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Coming from an injector guy, injector wear is 100% related to oil change intervals.
I recommend oil changes at 2500 - 3000 miles, and your injectors will last 400k miles.
If you change oil at 5000 miles like Ford says, they will last 200k miles. I have seen it over and over......
IMO it's more important to change your oil more frequently than to spend more money on 'better' oil (other than synthetics, you can't go wrong there). I switched to cheap Tractor Supply or WalMart brands in a couple of my trucks. Still had clean oil and only ran them for about 3k miles.
I have AMSOIL in my DD now, only have 8k miles on it with no winter time, so I'm anxious to see how it does when cold and for longevity.
One oil change every 2 years is attractive to me, if it works like it should with the bypass filter and oil tests.
I recommend oil changes at 2500 - 3000 miles, and your injectors will last 400k miles.
If you change oil at 5000 miles like Ford says, they will last 200k miles. I have seen it over and over......
IMO it's more important to change your oil more frequently than to spend more money on 'better' oil (other than synthetics, you can't go wrong there). I switched to cheap Tractor Supply or WalMart brands in a couple of my trucks. Still had clean oil and only ran them for about 3k miles.
I have AMSOIL in my DD now, only have 8k miles on it with no winter time, so I'm anxious to see how it does when cold and for longevity.
One oil change every 2 years is attractive to me, if it works like it should with the bypass filter and oil tests.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 1
From: Elkhorn, WI
just so you know the hpop and engine use the same oil. when you change the engine oil it also changes the hopo oil. no need to suck oil out of the hpop. and i live in wisconsin and it gets pretty cold i use motorcraft 15-40 in the fall/summer, and i use rotella 5-40synthetic in the winters. helps the truck start muck better. you can get both oils and motorcraft filters at wal mart
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: North East Ohio
95bigtime,
If you experience a miss at idle, you can unplug the injectors one at a time to find which one is not firing. But if it's missing the CCT will pop it out, too, with no trouble. If the CCT passes, then you may have other issues. It's a reliable tool and has been very accurate for me. ???
Although this isn't totally correct, it's not totally incorrect either...
By just draining the motor oil, you will not also be draining the HPOP res. That's how you made it sound, to me anyway.
It's always a good idea to suck the HPOP res and head rails when changing oil. If you don't, you're leaving 1 qt of bad oil in the motor (res), and about 1 qt in each head. If you're changing oil , why not change all of it?
And yes, by just running the motor you will 'change' the oil in the res and heads, but as I mentioned it will all still be dirty oil.
It's worth the extra 5 minutes with a vac pump to get it out of there, IMO of course.
William,
You can make your own bypass set-up if you take the time and find the parts. Filter head and lines and such don't really cost that much. I just didn't have the time and wanted/needed one asap so I went with the Amsoil unit.
If you experience a miss at idle, you can unplug the injectors one at a time to find which one is not firing. But if it's missing the CCT will pop it out, too, with no trouble. If the CCT passes, then you may have other issues. It's a reliable tool and has been very accurate for me. ???
By just draining the motor oil, you will not also be draining the HPOP res. That's how you made it sound, to me anyway.
It's always a good idea to suck the HPOP res and head rails when changing oil. If you don't, you're leaving 1 qt of bad oil in the motor (res), and about 1 qt in each head. If you're changing oil , why not change all of it?
And yes, by just running the motor you will 'change' the oil in the res and heads, but as I mentioned it will all still be dirty oil.
It's worth the extra 5 minutes with a vac pump to get it out of there, IMO of course.
William,
You can make your own bypass set-up if you take the time and find the parts. Filter head and lines and such don't really cost that much. I just didn't have the time and wanted/needed one asap so I went with the Amsoil unit.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
It's one of those things I'd like to know more about, but just dont care to research it. Doesn't really interest me, but i want to do the project.
So i figured I'd just eventually buy a system and put it in.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 1
From: Elkhorn, WI
thats true. i guess i did not realize that the hpop held that much. the way the first post sounded to me was he was under the impression they were separate and he was going to change just the hpop oil. sorry for the confusion