When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have been haglging for a couple months now on what type of rear suspension is going to go in my 73' I finally got my new engine built and it is pretty sweet a 460 bored out to 520 a bunch of new parts yatta yatta yatta but now I want to slam it down and have been going back and forth between a straight 4 bar or a triangulated 4 link
The four bar would be an easier install it is bolt on to the existing frame.
But the triangulated 4 link controls lat movement and twist.
Price isnt my issue one costs about 3500 the other is about 1600
both suspension set ups are pretty good,the four link you'll need a panhard bar where the triangulated setup doesn't need one.not really a deal breaker.It all really comes down to what you are doing to use the truck for.
I hate to change the subject, but I will soon be rebuilding a 460 and was wandering how much you have into your stroker rebuild. Also, how's it running - was it worth the investment. Thanks
I hate to change the subject, but I will soon be rebuilding a 460 and was wandering how much you have into your stroker rebuild. Also, how's it running - was it worth the investment. Thanks
I built my 460 myself and did not stroke it, still spent a bunch but it was worth it, this thing rips. Around $3000 I think.
460 engine $200
Boring, square decking, install pistons on rods $450
Edelbrock perfomer RPM air gap intake $320
Demon 750cfm $300
L&L headers $300
C9VE heads (ported) $200
Cam, lifters, springs $250
Pistons $300
rebuild kit $200
Roller rockers $200
L&L mounts $100
oil pump $50
timing chain $50
Fuel pump $25
Misc $200??
Where do you plan on mounting the upper links for the triangulated system? Are you going to fab your own stuff? I ask because lowering limits the amount of space between the differential and the floor of the bed. Most triangulated systems mount the upper links closest to the top of the differential which can cause some clearance issues, especially when fuel takns and such are limiting space.
Your new engine will be making some power, but tires may not have enough traction to even require this unique suspension system. I have seen several low 10 second trucks using styck style leaf configurations.
Is a three link even an option for you? I was thinking a wishbone type three link. Really it is a triangulated system, but still falls into the three link category.
How about a Watts link?
Without knowing what you expect out of this truck, discussing different types of suspensions may send you off in a different direction.
What is your intent for this truck? Hopes and dreams VS real world needs will be a great place to start.
The three link actualy is a whole ne piece to the frameI think it is about a four four and a hlaf foot section that gets cutout of the factory frame and the new frame piece is welded in I will try and a get a picture of the set up here in a few hours. (stupid phone)
I plan on using the truck down at the strip on a 1/4 mile no street driving.
I have roughly the same as blown for my 460 I have a second blobk that I am getting ready to start when I get back home in march. (gettin ready to ship for basic in a couple months) I will post you a nice build on that one hopefully I can get the second 460 up to about 800hp with out too much cash lol
Guess Im missing something. Sounds like you inted to backhalf the truck? Trying to leave frame dimensions stock?
How fast do you intend to run? Im tninking that spending some money on other items to keep the truck legal would be a far better benefit. Roll cage, trans, etc would offer a far better reward.
Link suspension is a bit over rated in my opinion. Far to many variables to get it right and tuning of any of these designs are quite complicated.
Your leaf springs will be really very effective for axle control with a little help.
Stock suspension truck with CalTracs and a 9 second quarter:
part of my problem right now though it is it a long bed. The frame was going to be chopped to a short bed length. Then my springs are already fairly weak so I am worried about spring wrap up if there is any twist hence wanting to use a four link or a tri four link.
but I got my pics here they be.
there is the rear clip
and the front clip
For drag race the four link will be awsome, for road race cars I typically use a triangulated setup. If you're gonna be running it down here at Douglas then the four link will be everything you need and more. By the way, I'm just down the road from you so if you need help give me a call. I have odd hours, but love wrenching when I am free to do so.
sounds good george I will keep you in mind when I get ready for my 800hp motor and manual tranny (I am hoping by the time i am ready for that that a certain transmission I saw will be up for fords)
Cool, just let me know. I have a shop and tons of tools if you find yourself needed assistance, or I can come on over and help out if all you need is some muscle. I'm game for whatever it takes to help another truck down the 1320. I'm hoping to have my drag truck finished by spring so maybe we can hit the track together. You'll blow me away with that much power as I'm only laying down about 375hp, but I'm also only pushing 2600lbs of truck down the track
ohh that motor wont be ready for install anytime soon lol It is probably going to ccost me about 10 thousand but it will be worth it ohh so worth it lol.