9R26I, does not mean anything to me either but that's clearly not the last 6 (or 5) of the VIN. This other guy you are refering to clearly had the wrong number. And I'm not talking about casting numbers at all.
But I've always read that starting in 1968 Ford stamped (not cast) the last 6 of the VIN on the block, you can read my link to Mustang monthly that says the same. But that and similar sources is where I got my info. So yes they could be wrong. But I personally have checked this on at least 10 vehicles, not a lot I know. But they all had the last 6 of the VIN on the block. 10 for 10 seems more than coincidence.

Looks like this. This is on the small section of block between the intake and bell housing. This is just an example of what the stamping looks like, this is not actual proof.



EDIT. I'm having probs getting this pic to show up, I'll keep looking.

 

I have nothin to add to the subject. Just wanted to say there is alot of great stuff in this thread to read and learn. Maybe this thread should stick around?

 

More info. This is the exact area where I have found the last 6 of the VIN stamped on every engine that I have checked.



Beginning in 1968, VINs were typically stamped into a pad on the back of engine blocks. Often hard to see when an engine is installed and many times difficult to read due to stamping irregularities, the number is very important to determining original blocks, especially for high-performance Mustangs. This '70 Boss 302's pad is blank, meaning more than likely it's a service replacement block.

 

Is numbers matching the same as original parts that came on the specific year auto? My dad had a friend who restored a 1965 stingray. He had an early year 65. He paid a lot of money for a certain style of hose clamps, then had them engraved to be proper for early 65. He paid a lot for the radiator cap to be original for early 65.

I guess my real question is, is there a blueprint to follow and a judging standard on fords to the extent of the chevys. I know the more original parts the better, but there are no vin numbers on these parts to say that this ford restoration is numbers matching and this ford restoration is not.

Is it just the door jambs, frame, and motor that makes a numbers matching auto?

 

Does this goes for the trucks also? I know you said it is difficult to see with engine installed but Im getting curious. I think I will try to see if I can find something stamped on my 73 302 block tomorrow.

 

Basically, if you have a Ford truck, matching numbers don't mean diddly squat. Unless you really want a numbers matching truck. Then you just sand down the back of the block & stamp your VIN on it. That MUST be how there are so many "numbers matching" vehicles at the Barrett-Jackson auctions!!!!

 

I hope that isnt what people are doing. If so there would be so many phoneys.

 

As you can see there is a lot of descrepancy in this but in my opinion you will find the VIN on that 1973 302 block. Look at the pic I posted above to see where to look, right behind the intake. It is very hard to see, use carb cleaner start scrubbing.

Well I personally don't want my truck to be numbers matching because then I'd have a 351m!

 

I feel certain there are alot of phoneys "rolling across the block." Not to discredit the true, all original survivors, but there is no way all the cars at "the auctions" are what they are said to be.

 

If the 3rd thru the 5th digits make no sense, what is the good of the rest of it?

The pic was very blurry, so I could not make out the last 6 digits.

Let me ask you this.

How many Ford parts catalogs do you have?

Are you aware of how Ford's part numbering system actually works?

How many years of Ford experience do you have?

How many VIN's, Warranty Plates have you decoded?

The answer to the above questions is prolly...none.

You are a hobbyist, and like most of these ppl, have no Ford info of any kind, and so...tend to believe all the clap-trap posted on the net, and...

In car/truck magazines, in car club publications by people who also have none of the above.

I've been in this hobby since 1956, have owned 82 Ford cars/trucks, 247 other makes.

I was a Ford partsman for 35 years, have a library with over 3,000 books on general auto history, 300 books just on Ford cars/trucks, and 600 Ford parts catalogs...so I usually know what I'm speaking about.

 

Who sings that song, "Won't you marry me, Bill." Hahaha, just kidding!

 

I have been around these old trucks since I was about 10. I am now almost 20 and still learning about them and I love it. It is great to read all the things you post on this forum. Your knowledge is very valuable. Just wait until I unleash this new knowledge on the cheby lovers at school. All they know is that chebys are cheaper and thats why they drive them, lol.

 

Numberdummy, like I said before I've seen your posts and don't want to argue with you, meaning I know you have me beat with experience many times over. Again that 1969 number you keep posting is irrevellant to me as well. I am not claiming that number means anything at all, I didn't bring it up. As far as I am concerned we can just stop talking about it and it doesn't belong in this thread.

And just for a little back ground I've only owned Fords my whole life. I was a mechanic for a GM dealer and yes I had a Ford sticker on my tool box! I now work for a maintenace management company and have 22 ASE certifications. I have decoded a lot of VINS and I'm iffy on the Ford part number system, I do deal with it but it really doesn't help my job so I never really had a huge motivation to learn it. I talk to probably 10-15 Ford dealers every day and they get into certain aspects of the number break down. But what I am talking about in this thread has nothing to do with part numbers, it has to do with the last 6 of the VIN being stamped on the block.

I'm an easy going guy, you won't offend me. But just curious, do you not think the last 6 of the VIN is stamped on the block on my 85 Mustang? Again, if you don't think it's there thats just fine with me but I seriously just looked at it. Between trying to get a better pic of that, looking for the VIN on my old 351m and my cousin has the original engine out of his 1989 F-150, and I have an 88 Mustang with the engine pulled I will be able to post a picture of a VIN tag, then post a picture of the last 6 stamped on a block. It is kind of looking like I cant host pics on this site, if thats true I'll email the pics to you. I've seen it way too many times with my own eyes.

 

I think the "antiques salesmen" only look at the body matching the engine block. Nothing else matters. If somebody's gonna pay $100k for an original classic car, I guess they'd want it to be as close to original as possible. If I bought a '69 Boss 429, I'd like for it to have the original engine. If I bought a '70 Chevelle SS454, I'd want the original engine. If I bought a Ford truck, I'd like to pull the engine & replace it w/ a 460!!! I personally think a '72 F100 w/ a 460, C6 is worth more than it was w/ the 240, C4 it came with.

 

Not kidding: Fifth Dimension.

Blown 331: As I said, the NHTSA mandated the automakers to mark body and mechanical parts with specific to the vehicle VIN's in the late 1980's.

Late 1980's: It could have been mid 1980's, I don't recall exactly.

The idea was, this would cut down on auto thefts, because now used parts could be tied to a specific vehicle.

Has it helped any? Prolly not. Body shops, garages usually don't care where used parts come from, and those numbers could be ground off, then painted over.

btw: Which blown 331 engine do you have? Is it a Cadillac OHV V8, or Chrysler OHV Hemi V8?