EFI to CARB conversion help
New User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Its a 333 stroker motor but i have a 302 carb.. thats has idk about 350 horses with just some aussie heads and edelbrock intake manifold stuff like that that im considering just because of gas because i drive this truck every day to school, work, etc so what do i need to convert it over to carb?
New User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
ok so the motor is a 333 stroker has just a little work done to it like aussie heads edelbrock intake,etc nothing major but i also have a plain jane 302 with just some aussie heads and eagle piston (i think) with about 300 and something horses so do u think that will do good on a conversion because my 5.0 is just a piece oil leaks all the time now about every week or so something else is wrong with it like distributor caps, the starter, the alternator, battery is dead, U joints, brakes, it just is costing alot out of my pocket so please help me out on this i really need it
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 3
From: Conway, South Carolina
I say get a HEI distributor. They can be found a broncograveyard.com. All you have to do is hook up one wire, the the brain box for electronic ignition and coil is built into the distributor. Looks very nice cause it cleans up the motor.
New User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
yes the i's something wrong with my efi I've changed iignition system and still no fire that's why I'm wanting to change to carburetor
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
I recommend using Ford's duraspark ignition. You can keep your original coil, plugs, wires, and cap. All you need is a duraspark distributor (1983 5.8) and module. which can be had for less than $100.
You can make your own wire harness or grab one off a pre-1986 truck, car or random 1975-1991 ford, AMC, or Jeep product. It is HEI and basically plug n play. Looks stock if you do it right as some heavy duty Fords up until 89 or so came with this from the Factory.
You can make your own wire harness or grab one off a pre-1986 truck, car or random 1975-1991 ford, AMC, or Jeep product. It is HEI and basically plug n play. Looks stock if you do it right as some heavy duty Fords up until 89 or so came with this from the Factory.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,792
Likes: 2,426
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 97
Likes: 1
From: Ottawa, ON
Yeah same here, Like the idea of EFI for so many reasons, Sure carbs are fun but when I want to jump in the truck and go EFI is no brainer. Will be going with edelbrock's pro flo 4 EFI in spring almost everything is in the box as well (minus your coil and fuel system ie pump hoses ans regulator but still alot more complete then most of the setups like FITECH and Holley's Sniper EFI which is basically an electronic carb.)
Last edited by MPP8405; Mar 2, 2019 at 01:46 PM. Reason: corrections
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
Yeah I feel the same way, but I understand some people don't have the money or tools/equipment and knowledge to fool around with kaput EFI system. It's just easier for them to revert these 1960's design engines to carburetor. For a show queen or daily driver? --No way, but honestly not a bad option for a clapped-out farm truck.
Elder User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 533
Likes: 5
Yeah I feel the same way, but I understand some people don't have the money or tools/equipment and knowledge to fool around with kaput EFI system. It's just easier for them to revert these 1960's design engines to carburetor. For a show queen or daily driver? --No way, but honestly not a bad option for a clapped-out farm truck.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,792
Likes: 2,426
You can can fiddle with a carb and get them to run very good but it will still need periodic rebuilds and maintenance. How much time do you spend on your ‘96 working on get size, idle mixture and choke adjustments? Sequential fuel injection is much more precise than a carb could ever hope to be. I have carbureted vechicles but they are not my daily driver.
To Zbrown that brought this thread back from the dead,
What testing have you done? Did you just throw ignition parts at it? Are there any fault codes stored or active?