Hi Dave
November B/S thread
Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
Jim:
What is the out-out dimension for a masonry fit steel casement for a 36" door?
I want steel so I can grout behind it, and water wicking won't be an issue as the sill is at the driveway with no step.
I need to rip out the existing wood casement for a steel sheathed 36" door that leads into the basement.
The door hangs low at the striker by half a dead throw height.
Since I have to pull the casing to rehang the door, I figured I'd just make it better.
The wall is part cinder block and part framing.
Unless I find some hidden nails, I believe the current casing is secured to the stud via the hinge screws, face - face no wedges, and along the striker edge by what hasn't been carved out of the spray-in polyurethane foam and again no wedges.
The opening has doubled two-by's along each side above the block wall.
The inner two-by's are overhanging the inner face of the block wall, and continue descending down along the face of the block on each side of the opening.
These two-by's have been ripped about in half so that they can make the decend down the sides of the cinderblocks.
I'm thinking of taking out both of the inner two-bys and adding a doubler along side the other face of the original stud, so column strength isn't compromised.
I'm thinking of either a commercial steel door panel or a Therma-Tru door panel.
What is the out-out dimension for a masonry fit steel casement for a 36" door?
I want steel so I can grout behind it, and water wicking won't be an issue as the sill is at the driveway with no step.
I need to rip out the existing wood casement for a steel sheathed 36" door that leads into the basement.
The door hangs low at the striker by half a dead throw height.
Since I have to pull the casing to rehang the door, I figured I'd just make it better.
The wall is part cinder block and part framing.
Unless I find some hidden nails, I believe the current casing is secured to the stud via the hinge screws, face - face no wedges, and along the striker edge by what hasn't been carved out of the spray-in polyurethane foam and again no wedges.
The opening has doubled two-by's along each side above the block wall.
The inner two-by's are overhanging the inner face of the block wall, and continue descending down along the face of the block on each side of the opening.
These two-by's have been ripped about in half so that they can make the decend down the sides of the cinderblocks.
I'm thinking of taking out both of the inner two-bys and adding a doubler along side the other face of the original stud, so column strength isn't compromised.
I'm thinking of either a commercial steel door panel or a Therma-Tru door panel.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
Jim:
Hmmm, split-jamb
I was thinking of the solid casings that one slides in-between the masonry.
As I recall split-jamb wraps around the masonry & or Sheetrock.
I'll have to check the thickness of the block for the split-jamb.
And recheck the opening between the block.
Hmmm, split-jamb
I was thinking of the solid casings that one slides in-between the masonry.
As I recall split-jamb wraps around the masonry & or Sheetrock.
I'll have to check the thickness of the block for the split-jamb.
And recheck the opening between the block.
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Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
Jim:
Is the buck set up for regular lock-sets versus mortised lock-sets?
Please get me a price for the buck only, and a price for a buck with non-fire rated foam insulated door.
I'd want an in-swing with threshold, hinged on the right when viewed from outside.
As for the door panel, will a Therma-Tru panel mate up with the buck, and would the current steel faced door panel mate up?
My plan of attack is:
I'd pre-stage lumber in the upper section of the buck as I won't be able to get the lumber inside after the buck is slid into place.
I'd mortar it in place at the bottom and finish blocking out the upper half, of course that means counter-sinking the screws in the upper section.
Is the buck set up for regular lock-sets versus mortised lock-sets?
Please get me a price for the buck only, and a price for a buck with non-fire rated foam insulated door.
I'd want an in-swing with threshold, hinged on the right when viewed from outside.
As for the door panel, will a Therma-Tru panel mate up with the buck, and would the current steel faced door panel mate up?
My plan of attack is:
I'd pre-stage lumber in the upper section of the buck as I won't be able to get the lumber inside after the buck is slid into place.
I'd mortar it in place at the bottom and finish blocking out the upper half, of course that means counter-sinking the screws in the upper section.