I have a 272 in a 1957 truck with at least 50,000 miles on it. I want to pull it out and put it into another truck. This engine has not been run for ten years. It did manage to start and run with only a new battery and a little fresh gas mixed in with the 10 yr old gas in the tank. I cleaned the carb and put in a new kit, replaced the spark plugs and use new gas. It runs a lot better. the old plugs looked like all were firing. No smoke to speak of out the tail pipe. It does smoke out the oil fill cap and the vent tube pointing down on the left side. Stuck rings? blow by? valve seals? I am planning on cleaning it up outside, replacing some gaskets, removing the oil pan and valve covers and do some cleaning on the inside.What else should I do when I have it pulled out? I dont want to put a lot of $ into it. One guy said rework the valves to take modern gas. This engine is going in a work truck, not for show. What would you suggest? Thanks, Danny

 

Dan, changing the valves sounds like the thing to do. ( unleaded gas ) Other then that cleaning the motor should do it... colt 45

 

I would run her good and hot with some seafoam in the oil for a few hours. That may help clean up any gummed up oil passages. Then use a reputable 10-30 or so oil. I use rotella. As it has ZDDP which is neccisary for a mechanical flat tappet engine.

(If anyone wants to argue ZDDP, botique oils, synthetics, or any other thing, please start a seperate thread and let us argue that there. I think we can simply advise the guy on getting the engine running in good order.)

Also, I will second the heads getting done for unleaded. A three angle and some hard seats will put alot of life in an old engine. Check the rockers for excessive wear and play while your at it.

Good luck.

 

Flipklos, I agree. I'm not really to sharp at this stuff so I'm learning... colt 45

 

If it were me, since the engine is now running, I would put it in with oil like Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella as flip said. Run that sucker and do a few short oil and filter changes, like a couple in about 500 miles, THEN evaluate the engine. If it were running good before, I think that it will run now. After the first of these quick oil changes I would set the valve lash.

 

Howdy,


Just clean up the outside, change the oil and run it as is.

If you think you need a valve job then do it. If it runs fine, just use it. I ran my 57 292 for many years on "unleaded" with no problems. Run it until it needs a valve job, THEN do it.

Put any 15W40 oil in it and change it at a regular time. (I.E. 5000 miles, 6mo etc) Use the truck.


Cheers,


Rick

 

Here is an update on my project. I have the engine on a stand and have done the following: clean everything I can reach, remove valve covers, oil pan, oil filter housing, road tube, fuel filter, remove and clean rocker shafts inside and out, clean top of heads. Replace with new; filters, wires, Pertronics ignition, coil, front and rear seals, plugs, roter, cap, thermostat and hoses. I am starting to put it back together and have some questions; which is No. 1 cylinder and how are the others numbered? I think the timing marks have slipped on the pulley. Should I get No. 1 tdc and move the pointer to line up or tune it by ear? Should I use gaskets or just go with silicone for the pan, 90 deg. oil filter housing and road tube. Everything looks ok so far and I look forward to getting this engine in my 53 F-500. Thanks for your help. Danny

 

Cylinder number 1 is on the passenger side front. Numbering beginning with that front cylinder 1, goes to 2, 3 & 4 on the passenger side bank then 5 is on the front of the drivers side bank with 6,7 & 8 behind five on that bank.

If the distributor is out, you will need to find TDC or pretty close to it in order to get the distributor back in so that it will run. You can take an old spark plug and a bolt to make positive stop that you can put in number one spark plug hole while the piston is down. Turn the engine slowly and carefully one direction until it stops. Mark the balancer at this point and then turn the engine all the way back around until it stops again. Mark the balancer at that point THEN make a mark halfway between the two marks and that will be TDC. You can then use that as a reference to get it timed very close.

I would like to reiterate the need for using an oil with the zinc additive for your flat tappet cam. Modern oils do not have this additive that was in all oils when your car was more commonly on the road. The best way to get this and IMHO the best oil for this engine would be one of the oils that the truckers use. My favorite is Chevron Delo 400, but Shell Rotella T and Mobil Delvac are two very good and easily found examples of this oil type.

Good work up to now! Keep us posted.

 

Doc, I did just that today and It worked great! I turned the engine so #1 was coming up on compression, then proceeded as you instructed. On the reverse turn the intake valve interfered with the stop so I took it out, turned the engine till the valve closed, put the stop back in and made my second mark. The rubber mounted ring with the timing marks had rotated out of place. I removed the balancer, took the timing mark ring off and put it back on in in the correct location with some contact adhesive . I had an '83 F 100 that did the same thing. Just goes to show you cant always trust timing marks.

 

I also like Delo 400 but like to tip a half bottle of ZDDP in because Chevron has cut back on the additive. Not sure if your damper pulley/timing marks are going to stay with just contact cement but it should get your initial timing in the ballpark.

 

Y-Blockhead is right. The outer ring tends to rotate if there is an imbalance. But at least you have it cranked and you can look for a balancer in the meantime.

I just went through lots of research on the oil situation as it applies to flat tappet cams. With Delo there is no need for a ZDDP additive. It has about 1100 PPM which recent tests have shown to be adequate. For break in of a new cam, it wouldn't hurt to add a little, but unless you're dealing with high pressure racing springs it's most likely not necessary for break in.

Delo, Rotella and Delvac are good examples of oil with the correct balance of ZDDP and detergent.

 

Here is an update on my project. I have the engine in and running! I did a lot of cleanup and replaced gaskets where it was leaking oil. Replacing easy to replace parts along the way made it a lot nicer by not having to deal with a bunch of worn out junk. This was well worth doing. I was thinking my old F 500 was dead. Its amazing how much difference a good running makes in a tired truck. Thanks to my FTE friends for the held along the way. Danny