So according to the spec sheet the 2011-2012 f-350's are 37 spline and the f-250's are 35 spline? I am guessing that is incorrect, I just don't see Ford making different axles and a different diff for the trucks that similar. I been getting so many different answers I put in a call to a couple buddies that work at Ford to find out. Nice living 10 minutes away from Ford World Headquarters. Somebody there will be able to pull the records and give me a positive answer.

 

Let me know what they say. I would love to find a totaled at 2011/12 and steal the elocker rear end :-)

My LSD works excellent, but an elocker would be nice

 

While I am still fairly new to the PSD full size truck lifestyle I have a lot of experience with lockers. I ran a jeep, prior to my truck, that I had equipped with Dana 44s and Detroit lockers front and rear. For what I had built the jeep for, rock crawling, those things were damn near bullet proof. Unfortunately I moved back to Kansas where it snows...so I learned real fast that full time lockers were somewhat counter productive and being like most of us I couldn't just run out and get some ARB's. Here is my recommendation, if it's your daily driver I would save up a few extra bucks and go for the ARB's. While the Detroit's are pretty much grenade proof they seriously degrade the on pavement characteristics and can wear the crap out of your tires if you spend a lot of time on the pavement. Now, it's not uncommon to try and save some money by going with a Detroit in the rear and an ARB in the front (not sure about pricing these days) because it is just downright impossible to run on anything other than a loose or slick surface with a Detroit in the front. If you do the front end will bind up so hard and fast that you will be lucky if you don't destroy something or just flat run your truck off the road. If you don't have manual lockouts on your front axle don't even think about a Detroit up front. I could go on for hours about lockers and what I have learned about them over the years but I will cut it off here and if you have any questions I will do my best to answer.

Mark

 

Mark,

Been running Detroits for years now, broke two in this truck and broke two in my last truck also. So as of everyone saying they are bullet proof is a ton of crap. Also had a truck with ARB's front and rear, I also broke the rear ARB in that truck. When you actually take a full size one-ton truck off road and use the truck stuff breaks I understand that. I would go ARB again but am hesitant to mount a compressor again (they draw some amps) and the fact that I blew two air compressors. The problem is that if you get even a small air leak the air compressor will run and over heat and next thing you know its another 200 bucks for a compressor.
Yes I live in Michigan and I drive with Detroit lockers in the rear all the time in the snow. Its simple when the rear end starts to slide out, just let off the gas and turn into the skid, you will not loose control etc... its no big deal guys driving a Detroit in the snow. In fact I prefer it, at least I know when I get one on ice and one on pavement I can accelerate without burning out the clutch packs from a trac-lock unit.

 

Have you thought about an on board air system? You definitely won't burn that one up. It would take some fab work to get the a/c compressor mounted but it comes with way more benefits than just powering your ARB. I guess when I say bullet proof I am insinuating that they are extremely difficult to destroy not that it's impossible. I ran mine for 15+ years with no issues at all and I ran that Jeep really really hard when I took it off road (as in the Hammers, Dusy Ershim, Rubicon...etc). In any case that was just my two cents.

Mark

 

I would love to rig up like a York on board air, but I think it would be just to tough. I am already running twin alternators would have to do a custom install on it. Plus the York units are $$$. I think I am going to do another Detroit locker, the first one in this truck did last almost 100,000. Just the second one lasted about 5,000 miles. Just upsetting when you have to dump $ into something that quick.

 

I know the feeling...I bought my truck and then had to dump about 4k into it first thing. York compressors are very nice but you definitely pay for it. I went with a standard a/c compressor that came out of a 5.0 mustang. Bolted right up to an existing bracket. I just added an inline drip oiler to the intake hose and it ran like a champ. Having the dual alternators certainly hinders an OBA project. Personally, if I were out wheeling regularly like I used to I would ditch the second alternator for a single HO alternator to have the OBA. Sure was nice to be able to use air tools and fix tires on the trail.

 

The info sheet about the axles has been misprinted for years and nobody has ever bothered to fix it.

For the Super Duty, the F250 and F350 SRW both have the same axles... always have, always will. The DRW is when it changes to 37 spline.

 

Texas,

So is it a safe bet to say that a 2011 F-250 will have 35 spline axles? I would hate to order up the unit and then find out it won't fit. I was able to confirm the carrier bearings are the same, so as long as the axles are 35's I am pretty sure it should drop right in. Just not willing to bet 1200 bucks on it yet!!!!

 

ask a dealer or part store for an axle shaft for each... compare part numbers.

 

I asked a dealer the other day, they can give me the part numbers but they don't know how many splines they are. They did mention that the early 2010 trucks have different part numbers for the axles, he didn't know what was different.
They didn't have any axle shafts in stock to take a look at.

 

early 2011 and late 2011 pickups have different part numbers

the numbers are the same for F250 or F350 SRW

 

Ok,

I got my hands on a new 2011 Ford 10.5 ELD. Bad news it won't work!! The problem is the new trucks don't use a sensor on the ring gear for the ABS and speedometer. I could get it all bolted in no problem, but don't want to loose the ABS and speedometer.
I did debate about taking the new carrier to a machine shop and have them machine a grove to fit the ring gear, but I decided to scrap the idea and just put another Detroit Locker in it. As in the electronics it is just a simple 2 wire connector. I would have to imagine it would of powered right up if I hooked up 12 volts to it.
So now we know!!! Don't try it unless you are willing to loose the sensor on the ring gear and have a machine shop try to put it on a big lathe and cut a groove all the way around it.

 

I guess the new VSS is an average of the four wheel speed sensors?

Is the tone ring part of the ring gear or is it a separate ring?

If it is separate, adding one to the new carrier wouldn't be difficult at all. The tricky part is getting power through the housing.

 

The new one did not have a tone ring for a VSS. I am guessing it picks it up off each wheel instead of the ring gear. I did not tear it all apart totally, but it looked to be the tone ring is not full size for a lack of better words. instead of being a solid disk that could be sandwiched between the carrier and ring gear it is probably only 2 inch wide if that helps. So I would have to machine the new carrier the 2 inches wide then probably the .25 inch thickness to make it fit properly. The part that concerned me was if a machine shop did not have the carrier perfectly level it would all bolt together then wobble as it rotated.
I mean I been kicking around the idea still. Running the power to the new carrier would be easy, just drill a hole in the old housing and put a groument in it. The new carrier comes with it all set up with the wires right at the edge.