New Engine 2 issues
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Joined: Sep 2007
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New Engine 2 issues
I have the motor rebuilt and the truck almost re-assembled.
First issue is the belts, I don't have the old ones and in 1978 there are a few options out there concerning the belts. The people at the parts stores are struggling to get the correct belts. So can anyone give me the numbers i need for the belts? I believe there are only 2, i do not have an A/C compressor any more, so i assume it's just 1belt for Alt./Crank/Fan and 1 belt for the power steering pump. Any help on this would be great.
Issue 2 is really a concern and i'm seeking a recommendation. The new motor has not been turned over yet, i'm still finishing up the wiring. I have new oil in it however it's just run of the mill 10w30, i was talking to a guy at work and he recommended Mobile 1 with Zinc, saying it was best to break in the cam. Is this neccessary? If so i'll have to drain the oil and refill... Not a problem i just hate to waste new oil.
Again thanks for the replies in advance i appreciate the help.
First issue is the belts, I don't have the old ones and in 1978 there are a few options out there concerning the belts. The people at the parts stores are struggling to get the correct belts. So can anyone give me the numbers i need for the belts? I believe there are only 2, i do not have an A/C compressor any more, so i assume it's just 1belt for Alt./Crank/Fan and 1 belt for the power steering pump. Any help on this would be great.
Issue 2 is really a concern and i'm seeking a recommendation. The new motor has not been turned over yet, i'm still finishing up the wiring. I have new oil in it however it's just run of the mill 10w30, i was talking to a guy at work and he recommended Mobile 1 with Zinc, saying it was best to break in the cam. Is this neccessary? If so i'll have to drain the oil and refill... Not a problem i just hate to waste new oil.
Again thanks for the replies in advance i appreciate the help.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
Flat tappet cam, need zinc additive. Drain and save the oil, mix in a bottle of ZDDP if you want to reuse, but price of new oil is cheaper than wiping a cam. I'd use Brad Penn racing oil or Valvoline Racing oil. That first 20 minutes is critical. Belts, just measure what you need and get one to match.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
I second that. On my instructions from Isky for the cam, it said to run the engine at 1500 rpm for the first 20 minutes, and not to let it idle. The cam depends on splashing for lubrication.
To do that, you need (as I found out the hard way)to put a LARGE fan in front of your radiator so you don't over heat.
Use a magnetic oil plug. With the gear drive, and simply because it's a new engine, there will be metal in the oil. It is critical to change the initial oil quickly, after two days maximum. My mechanic, who builds engines for a flat trac team, prefers 15-40, but to each their own.
Let me know about your oil psi.
To do that, you need (as I found out the hard way)to put a LARGE fan in front of your radiator so you don't over heat.
Use a magnetic oil plug. With the gear drive, and simply because it's a new engine, there will be metal in the oil. It is critical to change the initial oil quickly, after two days maximum. My mechanic, who builds engines for a flat trac team, prefers 15-40, but to each their own.
Let me know about your oil psi.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
Wix filter is fine, but check the zinc levels on the Rottela T. The new stuff has been reformulated to gov standards and is not the oil we have trusted for so long.
