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Hello, I am very new to this. I have a 71' F250 Camper Special with an unknown year 352 FE. It is not the 360 that came with the truck. Does anyone know a good plug to put in there and what the gap should be?
Does anyone also know if I should be adding a lead additive to the gas?
Autolite 45 if memory serves, gapped 35 with non electronic ign, 45 with electronic ign.
Use base line pump gas, no need for any upgrades or additives for daily driver.
I put 5 qts. of 10W30 any brand, with filter in mine, some say 6, but that is all I have ever used for 40 years. More important to change the oil every 3000-5000 miles than to use boutique oils in these ol motors.
Spend as much of your jingle as you want on bells and whistles, but IMHO regular changes beats $7.00 a qt everyday.
Autolite 45 if memory serves, gapped 35 with non electronic ign, 45 with electronic ign.
Use base line pump gas, no need for any upgrades or additives for daily driver.
I put 5 qts. of 10W30 any brand, with filter in mine, some say 6, but that is all I have ever used for 40 years. More important to change the oil every 3000-5000 miles than to use boutique oils in these ol motors.
Spend as much of your jingle as you want on bells and whistles, but IMHO regular changes beats $7.00 a qt everyday.
John
Hi there...045 with electronic ignition? I have a 59 352 I bought 46's it has elec ign..will 45 be better...Thanks
I have read in several locations where we should use diesel oil or add a zinc additive to the oil when using a flat tappet cam. I may consider using 15-40 oil on a motor with a few more miles... Might keep a little more pressure. Several sites said Shell rotella diesel oil is a great option. Not trying to start another "which oil" thread...
Several sites say run 6 quarts if racing to prevent bottom end starvation due to the oil pan running dry under hard acceleration. I would think normal street use 5 quarts is fine.
I have the Autolites gapped at 45 as well. Running a Mallory electronic dizzy and coil.
Have you ever had the valves replaced? Do you know if you have hardened seats or stainless valves? No lead needed with either of these. If the engine has been replaced there is probably a good chance the heads were gone through and you don't need lead additive.
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