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97 e350 quit running

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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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97 e350 quit running

Engine got to a point where it will quit running every time I come to a stop I've been shifting it to neutral before I stop so it will stay running but it is not very safe to drive like this. If I give it throttle it will stay running but not otherwise. I got code P0171 and P0174 which are related to the MAF (Mass air flow) sensor so I replaced the sensor (cleaning it didn't fix it) but when I turn on the engine I set on the brakes and shift it to Drive and the engine will quit. I'm lost and I really need it running properly so please help Me if anyone knows what it could be.

Thank You.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 11:24 AM
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if it dies in neutral as well, its prolly the iac controller servo. easy to change. if it just dies when you come to a stop in gear, its prolly the torque converter lockup clutch. not easy to change.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ned37
if it dies in neutral as well, its prolly the iac controller servo. easy to change. if it just dies when you come to a stop in gear, its prolly the torque converter lockup clutch. not easy to change.

It will quit in Drive only if I don't give it throttle even the slightest will keep it running but it will quit in drive alone.It will run at idle problem is that it will quit once You put it on drive. I was working on it this morning and I noticed there was several vacuum hose sections that where damaged (age) so I replaced the little rubber sections. I started the engine and put it on drive but since the engine was cold the idle was higher so it wouldn't quit but after it warmed up as soon as I put it on Drive with out giving it even a little throttle the engine will quit. At the same time, after the little hoses change the tranny started shifting very hard on 1st 2nd and 3rd gear. The exhaust smells nasty like unburned fuel. I put the scanner again this afternoon and it gave Me code p0102 (something wrong with the MAF) but I just replaced the MAF sensor.
I need this vehicle for work but I can't afford a mechanic so any help is appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 05:23 AM
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Have you tried disconnecting the MAF totally and operating the van in that condition? With the MAF disconnected, the van should attempt to set the idle based upon engine RPM instead of air flow. I know that I'm doing this later today because I am experiencing similar conditions to yours, but I'm getting nothing but a P1000 code.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 93FordCTD
I put the scanner again this afternoon and it gave Me code p0102 (something wrong with the MAF) but I just replaced the MAF sensor.
I need this vehicle for work but I can't afford a mechanic so any help is appreciated.
You possibly received a bad MAF sensor... ?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 01:14 PM
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So, I disconnected MAF sensor today on my van and the engine appears to run normally at idle. When I plugged the sensor back in, it coughed, sputtered, nearly stalled like before. I unplugged it again and it ran like normal.

Without actually getting in there and measuring the outputs I don't know what is failing on the MAF sensor but my results seem evident enough that "something" is wrong with that circuit and I will be buying a replacement on Monday morning.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 07:40 PM
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When I disconnected the MAF the tranny will shift very hard in 1 to 2nd and 3rd. I read some more and someone told Me it could very well be the iac valve, I had to special order one so I'll post back once I get to install it. I replaced so many different sensors I'm running out of patience and $$$ by now.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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I replaced the MAF and my problem still exists. Depressing . . .

Unplugging the MAF will give you very hard shift points. I don't think that is uncommon.

I have replaced the IAC in the past, once it was really bad and once on a bad pull. Let me know how yours works out.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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I got the iac today I slapped it in there in about 5 minutes or less and nothing changed it is still doing the same thing, once it is warm (cold idle keeps the engine from quiting) I shift it to drive and it dies, even if I'm driving and I let go of the go pedal it dies I have to shift to neutral quickly and turn it on so I can continue driving (not very safe), so far I have replaced the MAF, PCV valve and boot, IAC, Both upstream oxygen sensors, air filter and a few sections of hose that were deteriorated and may be leaking from the vacuum system which holds 20 inches + at idle but once I turn it off it drops slowly to 0. I thought about the fuel filter or the fuel pump but the power is always there when I push the go pedal.

I have no more ideas and driving like this (this is My DD) is annoying Me to My limits. I appreciate any help.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 08:18 AM
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Did you ever get your van running?

I finally took off all the air intake tubes and found that the PCV tube coming off of the bottom of the throttle body had about a 1-2" cut in it. As soon as the tube comes off the throttle body, it makes a 135 degree turn and that's where it was broken. The tube leads down to the PCV value on the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine.

On my V10, the ford part number is F7UZ-6A664-AA (hose assy) and costs $26 at the dealership. I needed to remove the throttle cable bracket to reinstall the hose because of the clearances.

All seems to be right with the world again.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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Yes I did but I have not fixed the problem, I raised the idle speed until I get time to fix it. So far I replaced the PCV valve and elbows, iac valve, oxygen sensors, tps sensor and I forget what else but nothing fixed it. I looked inside the intake (further inside the intake after the butterfly looking damper) a couple day ago and sprayed a sensor cleaner I have since I didn't have any throttle cleaner and some very dirty goo came off in a shop towel I used to wipe it. How do I get rid of this? Just spray throttle cleaner on it?

Thank You. Oh and I'm glad You got it fixed.
 
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