Looking at reliability upgrades
Hot shot w/ synthetic oil. Running like crap till it warms up.
Latest flash, I think I am running the old inductive flash. It was last done in 97.
Coolant flush, already have a new t-stat.
EGR block off. It seems like my 03 EGR cooler is stronger than the newer ones, and just blocking off the inlet to it will save money right now for other things. May do a whole delete later on. Has been unplugged for the last 5k miles.
CCV re-route. Haven’t decided on filtered or open air yet.
Hope to put in gauges before next spring also.
This is my thinking, anything I should do before these?
This is just one of a few on the market:
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=324
1. Be METICULOUS on ALL the fluid and filter changes.
2. Properly maintain and check your coolant properties twice per year.
3. Properly maintain and check your battery and alternator twice per year.
4. Be very picky about where you fuel up - bad fuel can cause a lot of issues.
5. GAUGES - fuel pressure, boost, EGT, EOT and ECT - minimum
6. Head studs
7. Coolant filter
8. CCV re-route
9. Maybe EGR delete - I think an engine can be reliable WITH the EGR, but that is probably a minority opinion. If you delete the EGR, do it properly and get a tuner that properly takes into account the deleted EGR system.
10. SCT tuner or Spartan Phalynx
11. 2008 Tranny pan with filter (instead of a screen)
12. Power Steering filter
13. Return regulated fuel system (or FASS or Air Dog set-up)
14. HIgh idle mod in case you have to idle for very long.
15. Depending on the year model, you may need the updated turbo drain tube.
16. For 05's and 06's - replace the STC fitting with the updated one piece connection.
17. Get the latest flash update for your trucks computers
1. Be METICULOUS on ALL the fluid and filter changes.
2. Properly maintain and check your coolant properties twice per year.
3. Properly maintain and check your battery and alternator twice per year.
4. Be very picky about where you fuel up - bad fuel can cause a lot of issues.
5. GAUGES - fuel pressure, boost, EGT, EOT and ECT - minimum
6. Head studs
7. Coolant filter
8. CCV re-route
9. Maybe EGR delete - I think an engine can be reliable WITH the EGR, but that is probably a minority opinion. If you delete the EGR, do it properly and get a tuner that properly takes into account the deleted EGR system.
10. SCT tuner or Spartan Phalynx
11. 2008 Tranny pan with filter (instead of a screen)
12. Power Steering filter
13. Return regulated fuel system (or FASS or Air Dog set-up)
14. HIgh idle mod in case you have to idle for very long.
15. Depending on the year model, you may need the updated turbo drain tube.
16. For 05's and 06's - replace the STC fitting with the updated one piece connection.
17. Get the latest flash update for your trucks computers
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Over time, this connection becomes loose allowing oil to leak, causing a crank no-start condition when the engine is warm. This occurs because with the leak, the HPOP is unable to build the necessary oil pressure (500 psi) for the injectors to fire.
The updated fitting uses a bracket to prevent the leak from ever occurring again.
Over time, this connection becomes loose allowing oil to leak, causing a crank no-start condition when the engine is warm. This occurs because with the leak, the HPOP is unable to build the necessary oil pressure (500 psi) for the injectors to fire.
The updated fitting uses a bracket to prevent the leak from ever occurring again.
Feel free to direct me to a more exact post if you need to as I may turn this into an oil debate. Anyway, i have one of these trucks and would like to get the maxium amount of life as possible out of it. I see a lot of debate on synthetic vs conventional oil. Currently i am using shell rotella T 15-40 conventional and change it every 4K miles (and filter). Yes, I do believe synthetic will last longer but my goal is not to be able to go a long time between service intervals but get the maxium life out of the engine. I did buy this truck used at 75k miles, previous owner took good care of it and used shell conventional oil. I am just not convinced that the synthetic is going to make that much difference over the long term vs using conventional oil changed properly. I know of plenty gas burners with over 300k miles that used castrol (not synth) and many Mack big trucks & dump trucks that have over million miles on them that use conventional oil.....i don't mind spending a little extra money on longevity but just not convinced. If yall can convince me I will give it a try. Whats your opinion on this? THanks
2005 PSD 6.0, FX4, 120K
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...synthetic.html












