DLP, as you know from repsonding to my thread that I am all for the 5.0L EFI setup if I can only get my BLEEPING engine running right. Thanks for your ongoing help/support. Just posing a quick question related to the EFI swap, has anybody set one up in a bumpside with a T5 trans?

 

A friend of mine bought a '65/'66 390 truck w/ a T-5. He's supposed to bring it to me for engine work after it's painted. I'm kinda curious myself. I don't think a T-5 can handle the load, honestly.

 

I am curious as well. When you do get a look at it definitely post your thoughts. I won't be doing it anytime soon, anyhow. Just thinking about it as an option for down the road.

 

i've got a built 302 carbed with an aod tranny. was worth the hassle to get installed. great gas millage. was going to the beach this summer, around 2 hrs. 16 mpg @80 mph with the back loaded to the top of the cab. and i can blow the doors off of a rice rocket.lol

 

I'm still looking for an "new" engine and transmission for my 1970 F100 shortbed stepside. I've found a good 302 that's currently in a 82 F-150. I haven't seen it yet, but I've got a reliable report from someone I trust about the engine. I can get the whole truck for about the same price I've been quoted for the 302 engine alone at a local junkyard.

My 70 is missing its driveshaft too and I can't locate a used one anywhere nearby. I'd like to just take everything from the engine to the driveshaft from the 82 and drop it into the 70. I'm wondering how straightforward that would be. I've got an old Chilton's manual, which is helpful, but doesn't tell me everything and I just can't find any reliable source of information on the internet. I've got a column shift lever for a 3-speed C4 in the 70. It doesn't look like replacing the steering column is too bad, so I'd switch that too,if I need to. I've got more time than money right now, so I'd like to make this work even if it means spending a bit of extra time on the job.

I'm sure I can figure it out by myself eventually, but some experienced advice would be very handy before I get too far into a bad idea. Tomorrow is likely the day I decide to buy the 82 or not.

Anyone know if this idea works? I really don't have anyone else to ask, so please don't hold back if you know more that me, which is just about all of you.

 

blouboy, You are probably gonna have to have the drive shaft custom cut, factor that in now. ($125-175.00)

I am thankful that I rebuilt both my engine and tranny before installing, so I know that I have 36,000 moles on the rebuild. Bossman has to go when I'm ready of he can get a .45 slug through the grill.

Gas prices are going up again, the 302 would be a reasonable choice. It would have to have a OD behind it to go in my truck. I think EFI would make a good choice if you have the time to plan it out.

guluk




John

 

Yep, the driveshaft's different. Motor mounts are different. Trans mount too, I think? Steering doesn't need modification. Besides, it's totally different on the '82. Go for it!

 

Thanks for the encouragement guys. It's a big leap for me to go from taking things apart and putting them back together to trying to fit junkyard parts together.

I still haven seen my potential donor truck, but I'm going this afternoon if we can coordinate schedules. I've come up against a bit of a problem though. I found the "82 F150 through someone else. I've now had a chance to speak to its owner and he tells me its got a speed floor shift. I'd love to use that, but that adds the problem of adding a clutch pedal.

I tried searching car-part.com to see if I could find a donor clutch for my year truck, but it isn't even listed as an item from what I can tell. I it is, I don't know what to call it. I tried everything I could think of. Would one just bolt on and then be reasonably easy to adapt if I do find a clutch pedal. I'd obviously need to cut a hole for the shifter, but that doesn't seem like a big deal.

If I can look at the 82 this afternoon, I'll try to identify the transmission. Anything I should look for while I'm under it that might help figure out how to make it fit? Also, would I be better off trying to use the driveshaft from the 82 or find something else if I did put that 4-speed in? The rear of the 70 truck looks to be stock, but I haven't looked real close yet.

One last question. The 70 doesn't have any engine supports. I'm still looking for a useful diagram, but from what I understand, there should be risers that the actual motor mounts bolt to. I don't have them. Am I correct? What should I put in to make the 302 fit?

Thanks again!!

 

The clutch pedal & brackets need to come from the '67-'72. The engine mount brackets can come from a '65-'79 V8, but not a FE or 460. The driveshaft you have can be shortened & rebalanced. You need to make sure the U-joint fits the yoke on the rearend. The yokes are interchangeable if both are 9", but need to be torqued properly.

 

Not bad at all! What does it get unloaded running 60-70mph?

 

I get better gas mileage with my 2v 390 + manual than I got with a 4v 302 + C6 I had in the same truck. I attribute it to low end torque. The 390 doesn't work as hard as the 302 to get the truck moving. I like the compactness of the 302. In the late 80's and early 90's there were better 302's that had roller tappet cams that allowed for more aggressive cam profiles and better power. Of coarse the 90's era 302's and 351W have EFI. Of coarse this adds wiring and fuel line challenges unless you put carburators on them. A 351W never was in a 70 frame, so you might have trouble with long tube headers. The 351W block locates the heads an inch higher and an inch wider than the 302 block. When I swapped in a 302, I mated it with a small block C6 that probably came from an 80s van. It was longer than the C4 or the 3sp I had originally and required shortening and altering the driveline. That engine came to an end when the thrust bearing on the crank went bad. It's been all manual trannies since then. The junkyard 390 that is now in the truck has a noticable torque increase over the 302 I had. When I drive my 351M or a late model 351W, I don't notice the torque increase nearly as much.

 

I went and looked at the 82 with the 302 in it. The price is worth it for the engine alone so I'm going to buy it. It's got a Holley 4bbl and electronic ignition.

It runs and sounds great and it's got a driveshaft and transmission, not to mention all the other stuff like alternator etc. I'm much happier with that than a junkyard engine I can't hear run first.

I'm going to try and put the 4 speed in too. Putting a hole in the floor can't be too hard. I've put holes through cars before, can't be too much harder to do it on purpose. I've got a place I can go search through several old trucks and can probably find a clutch pedal.

What I'm wondering now is how to connect the hydraulic clutch on the 4speed to the non-hydraulic clutch pedal on the 70 once I put it in. Is there an easy part swap to make the hydraulic clutch manual, or would it be better to try to fit a master cylinder to the clutch pedal somehow?

 

Regarding the floorboard
My 76 F100 originally didn't have a panel in the floor as it was a column shift 3sp. I also had a 69 F100. It was the truck I got my T18 4sp from that made it into my 76. The removable transmission floor panel in the 69 matched an embossed pattern in the floorboard in my 76 exactly. I only had to cut just inside the embossed pattern to use the 69 panel in my 76. I've seen some of these trucks with a removable panel with no shifter hole in them.
Regarding engine stands:
302's share an engine perch with 351M/400 in 73-79. I believe that cab forward, the frame of a 67-72 is the same as 73-79. When I swapped out my 300 I6, I had to acquire the 302 perches (which i still have and am not using). I believe that 300 shared a perch with 352/360/390. There were holes in the frame and crossmember for either. It was only a matter of knowing which I had and bolting them in. The 302 perches have mounting holes a couple of inches closer to the firewall than the other perches.
Regarding clutch pedal:
In my 76 it was easy. I had the original clutch pedal as it originally a manual. When I removed the pedal and wanted an automatic setup, I discovered that the automatics I looked at used the same brake pedal. I just needed a bolt that replaced the stud welded to the side of the clutch pedal. I never looked at my 69 (I no longer have it) closely to see if it was the same, but I've discovered my 79 is significantly different in design. If your 70 is the same as my 76, then you just need the clutch pedal itself. Just pull the bolt out that the brake pedal pivots over and replace it with the clutch pedal. If you end up going with the kind of mechanical clutch linkage used in the 60-70s trucks, get the little cast piece that bolts to the bellhousing that has a bushing for the inside of the Zbar on it. There would also be a frame side piece with the bushing for the other side of the Zbar. Your floorboard should have the hole for the clutch rod in it, probably covered with a rubber plug. If you figure out how to adapt a hydraulic system, I'd like to know how it goes together. I believe there is room on the firewall to mount a hydraulic cylinder. Just don't know how the rod geometry would work connecting to a pedal.

 

Old brown truck, chassis rails are same 65-79 for cab and front clip, 73 4" was added to the rear of the can and the chassis was widened in the bed area only. The 400 was only offered 77-79. I-6 & 352/360 share perches, with drivers side modified in 73 to allow power steering gear to work, otherwise a notch has to be cut. 68 the rear brakes were made larger and used until 86 when the 9" was dropped. Floor pans are identical from 65-79 with 4" added to rear in 73.

Adding the clutch assembly would be above my pay grade, and not necessary IMHO with all the good automatics available. Shifting gears is a job that I don't NEED to do.



John

 

You'll need to change the bellhousing to the older style. When you go the the junkyard, just look at a truck w/ a straight drive to see how it all works. There are ball studs, z-bar, rods & levers, springs you'll need.