More front axle questions
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More front axle questions
I was nosing around while doing some brake work on my 96 F150. I am going to have to replace the axle joints soon. Will the axles come out of the spindle after removing the spindle shaft? Mine just appears to be a hole the size of the axle shaft, or is it just so rusted in that it looks like the hole is that small? I want a little bit of insight before I tear it apart, or else I may be walking to work till I get it back together.
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From: Mi'kma'ki
hi doug.
yes.to replace the front U-joints,once you get everything out of the way,the axle will pull straight through.
don't forget,your going to need a dana 44 axle socket (sold for about $20-$30 or rented out at $15 at most auto parts stores-large socket with 4 tabs) and some new seals.also repack your wheel bearings while your at it,so don't forget to get some grease.
be sure to replace all 3.there is one on the drivers side.and an inner and outer on the passenger side.you don't want to do this again,so do all 3 at once.
good luck.
yes.to replace the front U-joints,once you get everything out of the way,the axle will pull straight through.
don't forget,your going to need a dana 44 axle socket (sold for about $20-$30 or rented out at $15 at most auto parts stores-large socket with 4 tabs) and some new seals.also repack your wheel bearings while your at it,so don't forget to get some grease.
be sure to replace all 3.there is one on the drivers side.and an inner and outer on the passenger side.you don't want to do this again,so do all 3 at once.
good luck.
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Three?.....WTH..........the parts store only quoted a price on two joints..........are there different axles on 96 150's? Or is there only one option? But anyhow, thanks for the insight, I was looking at the configuration, and there is no way a person could get the axle out otherwise without lots of effort seperating balljoints.
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From: Saukville WI
First off i dont have a 96 150, but im pretty dang sure you dont have to mess with ball joints.... Like fatboyf150 said, remove hub and spindle. Left side axil just pulls out, right side you have to separate the carrier from the axle case to access the snapring remove and the "stub shaft" can now be removed. I just read this from the Haynes manual for later model internally retained ifs systems.... My 91&86 are different but this should help you!!!! Its really not that hard!!! Make sure you get the wheel bearings all torqued correctly!!! have more questions ask away!!!!
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So I'm going to have to open the differential also? Guess I better get some lube, and sealant !! I'm curious what the spindle bolts look like, after taking the brakes apart, and all the scaling that was on them, I'm scared to see what it looks like behind the rotors. I have yet to look at the pass. side, but I know the drivers side is bad. How much time should I set aside to tear both sides apart, I am fairly adept at this, but I have yet to have one torn apart, so this will be a learning exp. I have the socket sitting in the toolbox for the axle nut, so no deal there, but I am curious about getting to the c-clip for the pass. side.
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Oh....now I'm starting to get it, there is an intermediate shaft on the pass. side. So the pass. side has to be seperated from the outer section of the shaft, before the inner section will be able to be removed. Please disregard the comment about opening the diff. huhhuh I'm picturing a rear diff. The carrier is accessible from around the center of the right half of the axle. Like I said I haven't done much looking at the pass. side, I just know there is some serious "popping" from the d-side when engaged.
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From: Saukville WI
I think you might have to split the diff as the snap ring is holding the stub shaft inside so unless you inner ujoint is BAD BAD id leave it. (id fix it if you already in that far...here are some specs the pass side is a two piece one outer u joint and a rubber boot with spline then ujoint into diff with snap ring. so you can pull the axil from the spline but to get the inner ujoint you gotta split the diff....
Spindle to knuckle 35-40 ftlbs
It looks like you have manual locking hubs (later model dana 44 ifs with manual locking hubs) tighten nut to 70ft lbs while seating bearing. then back off 90 degrees, retighten nut to 15-20 ft lbs. This is what my book says its totaly different from my style so i hope im giving accurate info!!! if someone with a 96 has done this CHIME IN! If you have auto hubs i got those specs too.....
Spindle to knuckle 35-40 ftlbs
It looks like you have manual locking hubs (later model dana 44 ifs with manual locking hubs) tighten nut to 70ft lbs while seating bearing. then back off 90 degrees, retighten nut to 15-20 ft lbs. This is what my book says its totaly different from my style so i hope im giving accurate info!!! if someone with a 96 has done this CHIME IN! If you have auto hubs i got those specs too.....
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I don't believe the inner is bad, matter of fact, I only hear the d-side, but figured I'd do them both at the same time, then I learned there is an inner. I'll probably just stick to the outers, I'm not too sure about splitting the diff, and besides if it ain't broke(breaking) don't screw with it. Just finding this site has already helped me enough to dive right in and feel comfortable. I have all the tools to do it, including the spindle socket, so with the exception of a hoist, but in reality, how much help is a hoist really gonna be? I've got a creeper seat, and most of it needs to be ground work. So, armed with this knowledge, we'll dive in within the week, thanks for the specs.
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From: Mi'kma'ki
if you haven't done it before,be prepared to spend the weekend at it lol.
reach under and grab the shaft,see if you can spin it,and watch/feel the u-joints.you know,just like you do from time to time to check the rear drive shaft.
if you dont see/feel any play at all in the pass side.and you say "if it ain't broke,dont fix it"
be prepared to feel this way strongly once your done the drivers side hahaha.
my f250's torn down right now.im doing the same job your doing.already done it before on my 96f150.
just watch where you take out each clip.you need some skinny screw drivers.now,since you dont have a manual.place each part on a self the way they come out.
its a job.and not a fun one lol.
but you have us here on your side to keep you going.so your all set!
you can do it!
reach under and grab the shaft,see if you can spin it,and watch/feel the u-joints.you know,just like you do from time to time to check the rear drive shaft.
if you dont see/feel any play at all in the pass side.and you say "if it ain't broke,dont fix it"
be prepared to feel this way strongly once your done the drivers side hahaha.
my f250's torn down right now.im doing the same job your doing.already done it before on my 96f150.
just watch where you take out each clip.you need some skinny screw drivers.now,since you dont have a manual.place each part on a self the way they come out.
its a job.and not a fun one lol.
but you have us here on your side to keep you going.so your all set!
you can do it!
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From: East Bethel,MN
So I'm going to have to open the differential also? Guess I better get some lube, and sealant !! I'm curious what the spindle bolts look like, after taking the brakes apart, and all the scaling that was on them, I'm scared to see what it looks like behind the rotors. I have yet to look at the pass. side, but I know the drivers side is bad. How much time should I set aside to tear both sides apart, I am fairly adept at this, but I have yet to have one torn apart, so this will be a learning exp. I have the socket sitting in the toolbox for the axle nut, so no deal there, but I am curious about getting to the c-clip for the pass. side.
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From: East Bethel,MN
Same thing-Mine is OTC also.It is tight but it does fit.I've even done Explorers with the Dana 35 TTB this way.